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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1867

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
That is dirty! Minch you have started something here!! Lol can’t wait to do mine Very Happy 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #796383 2nd Oct 2019 6:50pm
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tookaphotoof



Member Since: 18 Mar 2013
Location: dordrecht
Posts: 1279

Netherlands 2013 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Santorini Black
Never thought of it but took the maf out and cleaned it with contact spray. Didn't expect anything as I didn't even had an error code. Unexpected results. Happy man!
Post #797107 7th Oct 2019 1:44pm
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ChrisCSL



Member Since: 10 Aug 2019
Location: Berks
Posts: 185

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Thanks Minch and Everyone,

Did mine today, no problems (after I found the MAP sensor). No prior fault codes or really dirty sensors found as far as I could see. My MAP sensor looked a bit different from yours. The cone bit didn't have gaps in the side. Mines a late model 2.2. Anyway, truck started ok afterwards but not driven yet to see if I can notice any difference. I do think the tick over idle is slightly lower than before though which is a good sign.

I did notice my Urban (ITG) performance air filter looked a bit dirty with a very small bit of debris. I'll wash it, dry overnight and re-oil when I get a chance.

Love this forum. I've learnt so much in a short amount of time as a defender newbie. Thumbs Up

Cheers
Chris
Post #797744 11th Oct 2019 5:11pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
I think the later sensor is better protected but oiled filters such as the IGT really are the enemy of these things. Better to stick with the standard paper element, which has been proved to be more efficient anyway. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #797764 11th Oct 2019 7:41pm
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MC84



Member Since: 22 May 2016
Location: Near Bristol
Posts: 341

United Kingdom 2001 Defender 90 Td5 HT Chawton White
TD5 2001
Forgive my ignorance but would any of this apply to my TD5? Mike

Hard Top 90 TD5 2001
Ford 100e 1959
www.youtube.com/mikemakesit
Post #797793 12th Oct 2019 1:20am
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Joe the Plumber



Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 906

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
LandRoverAnorak wrote:
I think the later sensor is better protected but oiled filters such as the IGT really are the enemy of these things. Better to stick with the standard paper element, which has been proved to be more efficient anyway.


Quite right. Pete from BAS tested serveral 'performance' filters against the standard one some time back (sadly the post's not on here any longer) and the most power came from the standard one.
Post #797799 12th Oct 2019 6:23am
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ChrisCSL



Member Since: 10 Aug 2019
Location: Berks
Posts: 185

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Thanks.

Understand the test that was done which I’m not disputing. Alive had better results on the dyno with ITG over paper with my remap, intercooler and exhaust set up.

Cheers
Chris
Post #797800 12th Oct 2019 6:36am
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Joe the Plumber



Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 906

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
That's fair enough Chris, thank you. It just goes to show there's often no definitive answers when it comes to tuning.
Post #797807 12th Oct 2019 7:03am
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ChrisCSL



Member Since: 10 Aug 2019
Location: Berks
Posts: 185

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
It’s a dark art 😉
Post #797831 12th Oct 2019 10:08am
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chrisc2306



Member Since: 02 Jan 2020
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 58

Scotland 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Zambezi Silver
Has anyone gone as far as removing the intake manifold and hoses etc to clean them out. I just find it amazing how much gunk collects on the MAP sensor that I'm considering giving the whole system a clean
Post #810255 14th Jan 2020 8:37pm
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2218

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I asked the same question in the last post of the below thread but got no response

https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic68596-45.html

I would also like to do this when time permits having seen seen some horror photos around the internet!


Click image to enlarge
 > 110 XS Double Cab
> Instagram @simonlanemind


Last edited by hank on 15th Jan 2020 7:18am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #810289 15th Jan 2020 7:15am
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2218

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Back on topic, I cleaned my MAF over the Christmas period using Liqui Moly Air Flow Sensor Cleaner

Sensor was pretty dirty but in honesty I noticed no noticeable difference in performance

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00295EEBK > 110 XS Double Cab
> Instagram @simonlanemind
Post #810290 15th Jan 2020 7:18am
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Gloucesternige



Member Since: 17 Jan 2020
Location: In the garage
Posts: 114

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
chrisc2306 wrote:
Has anyone gone as far as removing the intake manifold and hoses etc to clean them out. I just find it amazing how much gunk collects on the MAP sensor that I'm considering giving the whole system a clean


Yes, I have.. in fact I've stripped the whole bloody engine!!

The crap that was built up in mine was unbelievable, it must have been about 4mm thick all round the intake tube where the MAP goes and the plastic inlet manifold and inlet ports were nearly as bad. It's a combination of EGR crap, breather oil mist and oil from the Turbo. Oh yeah.. my 2011 had only covered 16000 miles, and a lot of that was long distance driving, so no pottering about with short journeys.

Here's my inlet valves.. &t=196s Nige

Check out my You Tube channel
https://www.youtube.com/c/Defender90KeswickNigelsLandRoverchannel
Post #810794 17th Jan 2020 10:28pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2284

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
I used the 10K Boost MAF Cleaner, prompted by seeing the P1103 Fault Code


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


The MAF Unit looked OK on inspection, but probably worth a regular clean at service time
or at what would appear to be a 10K recommended 'boost' interval.

I would only use a recommended cleaner on them as these units are expensive at around £140 + Vat
(£168.00 Inc) from Land Rover, there are factored claimed equivalents on the market at around £70.00 Inc

She ran well before and after cleaning the MAF, the Fault Code self clears after about 6 engine cycles, or via a
Scangauge request... I get the P1103 Code maybe once a year.

The 10K Boost was about £10 SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #810865 18th Jan 2020 4:22pm
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UtilityTruck



Member Since: 09 Jan 2014
Location: Oxford
Posts: 463

United Kingdom 
I cleaned my MAF and MAP sensors last night. Neither were particularly dirty, in fact the MAF looked like it’d just come out of a box from LandRover, and that’s after 70k Miles! The MAP had a little black gunk evident.

After a short drive no effects were noticed, but I’ve just done 25miles and I think there is a subtle yet noticeable improvement. Best way to explain it is the engines response to throttle seems a little more linear, less hesitation as you roll off and then on to the throttle, possibly just a little more free and happy to rev at the top end too.

As others have said, probably something to clean from time to time to keep the engine running well, but I won’t bother every service. 2014 Keswick Utility 2.2
Post #811581 23rd Jan 2020 8:12am
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