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kaney



Member Since: 01 Oct 2018
Location: Bolton
Posts: 232

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
Hi j17
Talked about door pillars being cut and accross the top of the vent just under the frame (long thin bit) and whatever else to get out the rust on both ends you could use a galvanised paint as a primer but got to be careful what other primers as some are not suitable i think zink based ones is a no-no.
I have seen videos where they lift the roof and frame up together out the way to hold it up off the bulkhead with a what looks like a couple of broom handles and crack on with the job.
Post #776983 10th Jun 2019 10:00pm
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familymad



Member Since: 13 Dec 2011
Location: Bucks
Posts: 3463

 2016 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Santorini Black
The constant worry about rot is right up there with security worries in Defender ownership.

They were built poorly and down to a price. I believe the metal thickness/quality has reduced over the years. My S1 from 1951 is still on its original x member where as my various 1984/85 V8’s were dust. Would have been so easy to have galv’d the chassis and bulkhead at the factory Big Cry 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI
1995 90 300TDI
Post #777003 11th Jun 2019 8:12am
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kaney



Member Since: 01 Oct 2018
Location: Bolton
Posts: 232

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
I'm guessing they may have been worried abou them coming back from being galvanised distorted as many are from what i have read
Post #777018 11th Jun 2019 9:07am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16871

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I imagine that many would have been distorted before they were sent for galv too, going by the build quality!
Post #777074 11th Jun 2019 5:07pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 4990

United Kingdom 
I did write a whole lot on Galv bulkheads, distortion, etch priming, paint peeling, galv just being a sacrificial layer not a magic cure etc etc but deleted it as I didn,t want to add to your worries Kaney but it looks like you have come across it yourself now with research.

Familymad is quite right the early Series up to early Series II's had a better build quality with some components even being galvanised Shocked Laughing later Series II's on into Series III's... Leyland Embarassed were not so good, with thinner metal (on the axles for instance going down from 3mm) and other shortcuts.

One of the worst jobs ever must have been to show visiting groups around the Defender factory floor. A clear warning was given to groups saying that they would not enter into discussions about build quality issues.... it always came to it though! The same is true of the current LR range, they are all corroding somewhere underneath from new... it's no excuse but vehicles are only designed to last 7-12 years depending on the manufacturer and country sold! You have to treat Defenders of any age like classic cars... you cannot stop the rust in many areas just slow it right down.

Just to add a more positive note I have finished rust prevention work on a 65 plate Defender today and the only corrosion is on the sill seam under the rear side door trims where they usually go but few realise (my client didn't) BUT the rear crossmember is as new, no corrosion around the windscreen which is rare, false window blocks still good, hinges good, cappings all good, rivets, engine bay brackets, interior fasteners apart from footwell all good etc etc and it has just come back from Morocco and stands outside not undercover. It has been helped along with Dinitrol and ACF-50 from new however. His wiper spigots are also rusty but now treated, plus rad bracket surround... OK I will stop now!!
Post #777082 11th Jun 2019 6:11pm
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