 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > TDCI full engine recondition |
 
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| B4Lamb Member Since: 21 Mar 2015 Location: Abergavenny, Wales Posts: 233   
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Excellent advice, I will take note of them all. Thank you.
Was going to ask you what other new parts you bought or the fitter had to get such as hoses, alternator/water pump belt, gaskets etc. Where abouts is the engine number stamped as yes I will get the V5 amended. Cheers . . . JOHN "You are never to old to learn something new" |
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17th Feb 2019 3:51pm |
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| shropshiredefender Member Since: 05 Jun 2017 Location: Shropshire Posts: 832  
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The engine number is on the front of the engine and will be obscured after the engine front bracket is fitted.
Set of gaskets from M&D, new drive belt, starter because it was a good time to change it. I had recon injectors fitted, all OK excellent local reconditioner but should have had new ones (pilot learn issues). New VCV and MAF fitted. Fitted uprated BAS intercooler and silicone hoses to enhance BAS remap (around 15k fast continental miles last year so reducing inlet temp. seemed a good idea). All water hoses were in very good condition, so refitted. Wiring loom in good condition but extra insulating tape applied where rubbing could occur later. New Clutch Fix clutch assembly fitted (at maybe 105k certainly 65k, the original was OK). This was a planned mod. and has made the clutch much lighter. Here's a link to some pics showing the internal damage - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59897.html Hope that helps  |
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17th Feb 2019 5:18pm |
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| B4Lamb Member Since: 21 Mar 2015 Location: Abergavenny, Wales Posts: 233
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Okay ill make sure I record that when the engine arrives. I'll order the gasket set from M&D ..good call.
Interesting about your injectors. I'm assuming that when you have injectors refurbished they dont all adjust the code. Any injector refurbishment is likely to change the original factory calibration and hence the code.. What was Pete Bell's take on this issue and how did you end up resolving it? I done think my injectors are faulty but I'm thinking of getting them spray pattern and volume tested. I'm actually contemplating building my own common rail injector test rig as a longer term project. I'm looking out for an unwanted high pressure fuel pump, flow reg and common rail manifold. I can do the electronics as that is the easy bit. It's more for interest but if successful I could offer a testing service. Most people need to know if they are okay rather than expect a full service so I'm not going to get into strip downs and refurbishments. Re the Starter, is that a bugggggger to change after the engine is fitted. I have been contemplating putting in a new starter motor. Mine had a new clutch 20 k ago and it has a new VCV recently, the MAF sensor is fine. PETE BELL suggested I run without the remap for a few hundred miles run in so ill do that. Cheers, John "You are never to old to learn something new" |
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17th Feb 2019 10:29pm |
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| B4Lamb Member Since: 21 Mar 2015 Location: Abergavenny, Wales Posts: 233
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Yes I may do the starter when I have to as the current one works although it struggles when very cold to spin the engine and it's not the battery as I replaced that recently.
I've only gone for a new stripped engine because the bottom end is really sounding like a bag of nails and I have a loud knock on one cylinder when cold . I could probably have got away with a short engine and at the same time a timing chain kit but with the work involved it seemed better to get a complete stripped engine and get all new head and valve gear as well as the bottom end and that way the timing chain and sprockets are all part of the new engine. I use my defender to go out to Spain a few times a year and need it to be as reliable as possible. Unless you suspect there are problems with pistons, rings, big end shells, main bearings, valves and guides then I don't see why you need to recondition or buy a new engine. Injectors are expensive to replace at nearly £200 a pop, so it's worth getting yours tested first before deciding to have them refurbished or replaced with new. I'm on a learning curve with injectors to understand changes in performance over time (drift), effects of degradation due to say water contamination and corrosion, understanding how the ECU interprets the injector code per cylinder and what the pilot learn bit does exactly. "You are never to old to learn something new" |
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18th Feb 2019 12:48am |
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| B4Lamb Member Since: 21 Mar 2015 Location: Abergavenny, Wales Posts: 233
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Well the new engine is in and running nice. Ford must have moved the engine ID sticker as it is easily visible on the front of the engine when fitted. The mechanic did a good job with the hoses and loom cable ties, I cannot see any rubbing going on. The Oil Filter as said is now a metal canister type and the part number is BK2Q 6714 BA . I bought a couple for the early oil changes from Arnold Clark Auto on Ebay for £8.18 each including postage. This seemed a good price for a genuine ford FoMoCo part.
Included with the transplant was a new water pump, fan belt, injector sealing washers, air filter, fuel filter, Engine Oil and antifreeze. The cost of the transplant with all these bits came to £1400 so total cost including the new Ford stripped engine, new turbo and gasket set including the dreaded VAT was £5600. Ouch! "You are never to old to learn something new" |
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17th Mar 2019 8:18pm |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7873  
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Glad it's all done and hope the driving smiles help you forget the cost.
 James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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17th Mar 2019 9:19pm |
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| Fernando Member Since: 25 Oct 2017 Location: CABA Posts: 86  
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Here is a link to a page. Very interesting from Argentina with a reconstruction of Puma engine:
http://landroverclub.com.ar/viewtopic.php?f=261&t=133818 |
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18th Mar 2019 10:27am |
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| R1200GS Member Since: 12 Jul 2015 Location: Hampshire Posts: 265 
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Thanks Fernando
Very interesting photo's there |
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18th Mar 2019 10:39am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5765  
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Depending on usage, and an owner's desire to keep the vehicle for life (or not), overhauling or replacing engines will no doubt become more and more common. What's a shame, is that given the ever more stringent emissions regs in Europe, taking advantage of the need to recondition or swap the engine to future-proof with a petrol engine is still such a leap in price. Not a V8 but (as an example) JE Engineering's Ecoboost upgrade. If someone could work on economies of scale and bring the price down a bit, I'd seriously consider it. Currently at £14k, it's a tad too much:
https://jemotorworks.co.uk/je-2-3-gdit-eco...onversion/ Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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18th Mar 2019 11:21am |
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| Maxime Member Since: 02 Nov 2018 Location: Trier Posts: 10  
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The Eco-Boost conversion was 17160 some weeks ago
oh, no, forgot the VAT... |
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18th Mar 2019 12:32pm |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5765
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Forgot the VAT, it seems I did
 Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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18th Mar 2019 12:57pm |
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| B4Lamb Member Since: 21 Mar 2015 Location: Abergavenny, Wales Posts: 233
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I did a leak back test on my injectors and found one was much higher than the other three (12.5 ml/min at idle compared to 5 ml/min) so I sent this one away to "The Diesel Specialist" in Southampton (Billy) and he confirmed it was miles out of spec on leak back at all pressures. He rebuilt the injector, re-tested and re coded (Grading Data). It looked brand new when it came back - another 90 quid though Ouch! All in now and running sweet. I used the BAS remap tool to enter the new code into the ECU.
Pete Bell as BAS recommended that I didn't apply the remap until the engine is run-in so its currently in the factory default map. Does anyone know where to get hold of the little metal clips that retain the leak back pipe fitting to the top of the injectors? I noted one of mine was broken and retained by a tie wrap which is not ideal at high temperature. "You are never to old to learn something new" |
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26th Mar 2019 10:05am |
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