Wise ones,
So my 2010 Puma has just turned 80K, and I’m thinking about hitting her up with the old one shot grease in the swivels.
Assuming that there is already grease in there at the mo and not oil , am I okay to bung another slug in or do I have to hook the old shizzle out.
Thanks gents
Wes Oh woe, oh woe
My crusty old landrover,
It will not go.

Unless you have any reason for concern I would just new on top of old.

Hello Mother superior

At 80K the Grease owes you nothing...its job is done.

The swivels are specified to have a measured amount, and the one shot grease (the clue is in the name)
is designed as a complete replacement...so drain out (best left to do its thing over night into a suitable
container) and then give the swivels a complete new one shot (the correct measured amount) each side.

Around £18-£20 in total from LR / <£10 form anywhere else.
STC3435
 SKIP.

if its not mixed with the axle oil good luck draining it if its cold. best do it after a run.

personally i would just add if it needed it. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop

its also far cheaper to buy the grease in 600ml lots. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop

do the swivel housings on later models even have drain/filler plugs? It is not a Defender, it is a One_Ten

What is this mysterious one shot grease? Is it just moly CV grease, same as any other CV joint, or something special? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

It is not std grease (NLGI2). Its is NLGI00 which is a lot thinner (+moly) Puma 110" SW

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Earth first. Other planets later

Thanks for the reply’s gents. I don’t think that there are any drain plugs on me swivels so I reckon I’ll just shove some more in
Cheers
Wes Oh woe, oh woe
My crusty old landrover,
It will not go.

No drain plugs on Td5’s or Tdci’s

And as mentioned it’s thin, but not thin enough to be an easy job. I submerge my sachets in a jug of near boiling water for a while before I use it. That makes it a lot thinner. Another good trick is to put a drinking straw, or similar, in the hole so it can allow air out as you fill.

Those oring seals fitted to separate the diff oil from the CV joint swivel grease are quite loose. I tend to think those two lubes get mixed at the end. Puma 110" SW

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Earth first. Other planets later

Hi, apologies for the noob question but I'm new to Defenders. Background first: I have a 2007 90 with 56,000 miles and I've just changed the axle oils and fitted mag plugs. For the swivel pins, Haynes manual tells me to drain the oil and refill with EP90. Picture shows where the filler and drains are. Trouble is I have a filler and no drain that I can find. Inspecting the filler and it looks like there's moly grease in there and not oil. The residue around the outside of the swivel pins looks like grease to me. Manual does states later models have the grease for life swivel pins that this thread talks about. Thing is, I've got a 2007. Question is: can I just top up with moly safe in the knowledge I have no drain plug? It is possible the axle has been replaced for a later model one I guess (my truck was a structural write off after having a front ender!).
Thanks in advance!

A 07 def will only have filler plug, no drain and use one shot grease.

So you either strip it all down remove all grease and start from fresh, or, just stick a tube of grease, or half a tube of one shot grease on top of what you’ve already got. I stick one tube in when I got vehicle and then put half, so one tube for the axle, each yearly major service after that. If you over grease the swivels it just ends up going into the diff oil, which I don’t consider to be a problem.

I’m sure others do different.

Andy.

Thanks Landy Andy. I needed that re-assurance given the unspecific mention in the Haynes manual as I wouldn't have consider a 2007 to be a "later model" puma! One tube of moly coming up!

Td5’s and Tdci’s don’t have the drain hole. I’m not sure of the date it stopped, but knowing LR it won’t be that exact anyway.