 | Home > My Defender > 110 Puma Slovakia mods |
 
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| Theater Member Since: 27 Sep 2010 Location: Pisa Italy Posts: 514   
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LaRouille You can find it also at "SpeedUp " : http://www.speedup.it/index.php?fuseaction=home.1131211 Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Marco
Defender 110 "SW" SE Galway Green MY 2009 Ex Defender 90 "SW" S Santorini Black MY 2010 |
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28th Mar 2012 12:24am |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436  
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WINCH MOUNT tactics
Lots of thinking and going back and forward between the multiple options. Frustrations about the Husky which; it does not have a lot of alternatives for mounting, but is still one of the most reliable winches around. As it’s an original ex camel trophy I am very reluctant to consider selling it and getting a “package deal” of some sort on a planetary type winch. My main culprit with the few existing husky airco bumpers is that they stick out so much. I don’t want the defender to get a chin; if I wanted this look I bought a Peugeot instead. Also the approach angle is very much compromised. I still had the winchtray of the discovery, which fits nicely between the chassis rails but is positioned too high and too much to the back to work out on a defender. After a bit of experimenting with the position it was quickly very clear that a combination of the original bumper, even with minor changes would not work out, the tray was way too low to my liking. This left me with only one possibility; make my own bumper using the tray as base. It all turned out easier than expected. 4 pieces of 40x100 will make the side beams of the bumper That way the plastic endcaps still fit. With only 3mm thickness they are still stronger than the original but not that strong that the chassis would become the weak part in case of an impact. Tray position was the priority, as high as possible without having the need to cut the grille, which with a couple of commercial bumpers is still necesary. I will need to cut the bottom part anyway but don’t want to start cutting in the horizontals. A couple of electrodes later.. 
I opted to have the tray flush with the sidebeams, this puts the bumper only 60mm in front of the original position. The extra gap with the wings is still acceptable and might avoid the sidecaps crushing into them. Click image to enlarge As a result I can use the original holes in the tray for the Dixon bate jaws, yeah camels again. The tray is bolted to the chassis in the back to avoid the tray from pivoting. Paint results and installation tomorrow, bumper’s drying at the moment TBC :D Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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31st Mar 2012 7:54pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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1 day of a zillion times getting under and back from underneath later, all is cabled and functioning
tired, happy and satisfied, the results:
Click image to enlarge
:D Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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1st Apr 2012 8:37pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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Now on to the installation of the winch.
First of all for those not familiar with the Husky; It is a wormdrive system which allows it to both pull and lower loads. Braking is achieved as a result of the wormdrive principle; so not other parts to wear out or fail. The main drawback is its speed, inherent slower than a planetary winch in no-load situations, but under load I do not see a big difference. (comparing stock winches to stock winches) The whole package is also heavier and bigger and more expensive So why a husky and not a planetary winch. Less things to go wrong, and in case something goes wrong, easy to fix. Mechanical strength and construction, the husky is build for pro applications where it needs to be (and is) reliable. Less strain on the electrical system and longer winching for same battery load. Both pulling and lowering in complete safety, I do not need to risk something to gather points. No need for speed or competition. The Husky has one easily forgotten benefit over other winches, it draws 250 amps max while others will take up to double of that. As this is an ex-camel version the winch is fully waterproofed and all electrics came in waterproof boxes. Also the engine has a waterproof enclosing. I have no idea if something was changed to the internal specs for this event version.
Albright box is mounted on top of the chassis rail under the airfilter box. Remote control connector placed on grille, second routed inside cab and connected to naka-switches. Power switches. Solenoid control side: in cab switch on/off: prevents operating winch by bridging the plug connector with wires. Vandalism/theft prevention. Power to engine: battery switch outside behind grille near winch to cut power in case something goes wrong (sticky solenoids are frightening, just ask yourself how much time you would need to disconnect the battery…. Witnessed it once and I can tell you… not enough.) All tested and working. Cable spooled on drum, clevis attached to Dixon bate, a bit of tension on the lot and power switched off will avoid scumbags taking the cable off / engage freespool. Influence on ride and suspension. The nose went down with 0.5cm… that’s good. The back went up with 1.5cm …. That is strange. Ride and steering feels more heavy in the front but not disturbing. Reaction to potholes is more damped and slow, not as springy as before. Will need to get used to it but in any case no dramatic influence. Searching a tree is on the list so I can spool the cable nicely tight onto the drum. With the eastern long weekend ahead still a lot of minor details to finish off before heading out for some first camping this year. 
As a side note regarding the DIY bumper, this "winch mounting" will be registered into the technical papers at next technical control, this is a local and pure administrative procedure. Fitting winches is not under the same legislation as tow bars / attachments. I might get comments on the tow hooks in the front but these are original dixon bate with E type approval, and attached to the bumper as intended by the manufacturer (grade 8.8 bolts etc) While it might come as home-made, there is no difference with any other bumper you buy, these also do not have type approval, even the LR OEM bumper does not have this (as it is no legal requirement). You have to register each one yourself.(which LR does in its type approval of the complete car) I know that in Germany some suppliers are including TUV approval, but this then again is not recognized here. The approval of the techn. control is dependent on rules as no sharp edges, things sticking out etc which pose an increased danger in case of an accident. There are no (so also not for aftermarket bumpers) norms involved regarding strength of construction, welding certification, etc. This you would need in case you want to use your winch officially as a host or lift or in commercial load carrying applications. This is all besides insurance issues (might be different in the UK??), IF your car is technical approved then it is legal. If it is legal it can be insured (and must be). Your insurance is about your car, VIN number specific NOT about the initial type approval landrover issued for the original spec. It is up to your insurance to check your car against the standard spec and decide for what price they want to insure it, BUT it is your responsibility to have your customization registered and your insurance informed. Yes, they can say they won't insure a vehicle which is not original, but i never had a problem with that. I am mentioning this as almost everybody i know is convinced that the bill for a bought bumper is enough to be legal and insured, which it is not. Rear ending a car with a defender is not a specialized art and then the whole discussion can start about the aftermarket bumper being the cause of the extend of damage. If that might still seem to be a detail, imagine the same when bumping into a pedestrian and causing personal injury... You will agree it is not worth the risk of not registering your changes i guess. 2cents only :D Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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2nd Apr 2012 9:17pm |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226  
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Glad you did Supacat! Somehow I have never seen this thread? Great stuff! Very inventive. 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
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10th Feb 2013 8:39pm |
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| deep down Member Since: 02 May 2012 Location: France Posts: 204  
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An excellent write up on all your mods.
Lots of great ideas, Ikea has a wonderful selection of bits and pieces Wago connectors are definitely the way forward, I used them recently to provide a common earth point behind the dash. No more messing with terminal blocks. https://www.wagobox.com/shop/lever/ Screwfix also sell them. Click image to enlarge I have a TC isolation switch on the dash and am currently working on auto isolation when either the front or rear lockers are engaged. Look forward to reading about any further mods/upgrades. |
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10th Feb 2013 10:13pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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Thanks for the comments
yes there were some updates in the mean time posted in other threads, should have updated this one also. anyway ATB diff installation http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic13545....hcroft+atb last month i ended up in a ditch  and replaced bearings, shafts and CV joints etc so lets say an overhaul of the front axle
While waiting for the parts i improved the air intake, which is without doubt the best mod i did so far regarding engine performance. here the link: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17821....norkel+rai More to come soon as i jumped on a Thermotop auction and have the water heater installed since last friday. Also more ideas brewing but as always time and funding need their time to come together.  |
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11th Feb 2013 10:39am |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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WEBASTO TT-C with Z board installation.
(have to sort pics for this, in the coming days) Having a donor thermotop available I started dismantling the system from the donor car and installing it in the 110. The electronic board of the TT was shot, I installed a replacement Z type plate (they come cheap as everyone wants to have/ thinks they need a normal board for classic installation) Click image to enlarge Piping in place, topped up cooling water. Fuel lines installed with pump hidden next to its airheater brother out of harms way. Pickup done similar way as airheater by punching into the filler neck hose. Note: noticed that the airheater was not consistent getting fuel in relation to the tank level. Most of the time it ran out of fuel when the tank was at ¼, which was good but sometimes it would stop with a still a half tank available. Reason for this is the line floating on the diesel in the tank. Therefore now dismantled the filler tube so I could add some weight at the end of the pickup hoses. Pulsing fuel pump manually till fuel was coming at the burner. Connecting electrics for a first test. Lots of smoke, restart, 2nd restart and ….. HEAT! Now it was only a matter of wiring the clock in the dash and linking the remote to the right pin. PIN layout and functionalities
Pin 1 is used by both remote and clock to switch on the webasto on normal boards, the Z board does not use this pin. Pin 3 is an “outside air temp” connection. This one makes sure that in case of a Z (zusatzheizer) installation The sensor is actually a switch which switches 12VDC to the pin from around 5°C air temp, this makes that the webasto does not work during summer. Sensor gets it power from the switched live feed. I used pin 3 to connect the switched 12VDC from the clock and remote. Note that a Z TT does not have a circulation pump, it uses the cars circulation pump (electrical) over can-bus commands in most cases. The trick with a Z in a non-bus system is to use the ON signal on pin 3 to trigger a relay which in turn switches a feed to the water pump. In my case, as the heater is a TT C I only had to connect the webasto pump to the relay. Nor remote or clock can handle the power the pump needs, in fact they can only switch 1 relay. I used a relay with 2 a NO /NC output circuit. In the NO position (so if webasto is not turned on and relay in ‘rest’ position. I can still send 12VDC to the pump. This is the “REST” button functionality you find on eg MB cars. It circulates the hot cooling water if activated while the engine is switched off. Eg with someone in the car waiting while you go shopping. Onto the ventilation system. I decided not to connect the car’s ventilation system. This would be possible by taking the feed to the water pump and connecting it to the ventilator. The reason for not doing this is twofold - Car ventilation system eats amps. - Heating up time of the engine is drastically reduced. And the compromise in comfort is minimal as the blower gives hot air the moment you start the engine. (defrosting the window is a matter of seconds with the heated front window once the engine runs anyway) All tried out and working a charm. Still have to wire in a selector switch so i can command both airtop and TTop with the timer and remote. Circuit will be as pictured
So far so good, but a standard installation would be boring so I found a heat exchanger, same type as the fuel cooler on the puma. New they cost 50 euro and up, the smallest is rated 9Kw and has 18mm water connections, just as the Puma…and this gave me an idea.. Click image to enlarge More to follow on this once I have the parst in and installed. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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11th Feb 2013 11:24am |
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| pouf Member Since: 05 Aug 2010 Location: Athens Posts: 456  
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the big magisian from Slovakia keep going.............
www.newfoundland.gr |
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16th Feb 2013 3:15pm |
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| Badger110 Member Since: 06 Feb 2018 Location: South hams Posts: 1025 
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thread noted for future reference
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2nd Jan 2019 3:01pm |
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