 | Home > My Defender > 110 Puma Slovakia mods |
 
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436   
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TRACKER install
found this http://www.simvalleystore.com/gt-170 at 60$ worth a try (also sold by Conrad fyi) Installed in sealed box with permanent live over USB converter in "secret" location. Battery is constantly charged over USB and when live is cut the battery keeps going for another 7 days. (even longer if you text it to go in sleep-mode) Sorry, no pics of the install ... 
The perimeter guarding is also nice. When traveling for work with the defender parked at home i guard it with a 0km range and when it moves get warned immediately (independent if the car was started with key or being broken in) Lost the call-in functionality due to the position and sealed box but in case of emergency we know to find the box and take out the tracker while it now stays well hidden. I opted for this solution as i had a car stolen within a month after a insurance mandatory installation of an alarm system.  yes think about it what you want but i got my personal stuff which was laying in the car (including my +5K photo equipment) offered through an anonymous call at 50% buy back value...
So no more official installations for me, whatever insurance discounts i could get. Another benefit of a tracker is that you can force the police to act. They have to act and check the tracker data. In a non tracked vehicle they told me "oh yes another combi diesel stolen, come in 1 month for your papers so you can claim insurance. IF we hear or see something we'll let you know..." 
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27th Feb 2012 1:54pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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Found this at the discount corner of Ikea:
fits nicely on top of the wheelarches. Would make a nice storage place for usual small stuff. In combination with the plastic boxes i am using it interferes a couple of cm so made a roof shelf out of it using the grab handle mounting points at back door.
the build continues PS: now 700km with the grundtal railing and no squeaks or rattles so far :thumbsup: Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Last edited by tatra805 on 1st Mar 2012 4:01pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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28th Feb 2012 9:07am |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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While at it (shopping IKEA that is) also found these ledberg strips
12V, warm-white color and you can connect the rails together to make longer strips Bought a couple, great output
will be using the other strips as camping lights and in the RTT :) Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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28th Feb 2012 9:14am |
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| PaulMc Member Since: 17 Jan 2009 Location: Kent Posts: 486  
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Tatra,
Some very impressive and very innovative modifications that you've made there - you've given me some ideas 
I went to Ikea for the first time ever, last year. My wife had dragged me there, but in the end she had to drag ME out of there
Lots of shelves and storage stuff + Swedish Meatballs - I was in heaven 
I see that you're not far from Bratislava, I recently had dealings with a company there called STRAŽAN - http://www.strazan.sk/ They sell some very nice vehicles 
. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop 1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS' |
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28th Feb 2012 11:59am |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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PaulMc Thanks for the
yeah.... Ikea Meatballs (you know they have a food shop so you can even take them home with you.) Strazan.... saw their defender rescue vehicles at a meeting some years ago... and to be honest.... 
skid plate mounts welded on chassis with more spatter than weld, mismatched nuts and bolts, ... generally not a decent impression. Maybe todays service is better (although they were in the news last summer about G-wagon based ambulances purchased by slovak state at double price of what they cost in Austria...) anyway, if you would ever be in the region and have time, more than welcome for a chat and beer |
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28th Feb 2012 1:28pm |
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| pouf Member Since: 05 Aug 2010 Location: Athens Posts: 456  
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very good hand made dog guard
looks very solid.............for mastiff :D Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated www.newfoundland.gr |
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1st Mar 2012 11:08am |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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Pouf, I used to have a van before the 110.
When i came home with the 110 first time and i opened the back door Boston (the mastiff) lay his head on the loadfloor, looked around from outside and said to the 110: you and me are both big blokes, square and cubic and english but that's were it ends, i have no intention for acrobatic climbing when i want to go for a ride. He ten peed on the back wheel and went back sleeping. Guess i'm building a dogramp next... 
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1st Mar 2012 4:13pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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A little electric ranting over the next posts....
ELECTRICAL 1. DUAL BATTERY SETUP
If I would need a system I would look into marine systems as these are made to keep people alive. The 4x4 systems are besides a nice (but useless) led bar nothing more than a relay and do not use the right signals for switching. -Coupling batteries based on battery voltage state is simply wrong. The deciding factor is if charge is applied or not. -The LED bars are useless as they indicate voltage, not state of charge, therefore you’ll need a real battery tester to measure voltage under load. - These systems are constructed for lead-acid conventional batteries and cause problems with AGM/gell and deepcycle batteries as these have higher voltages. To explain: A full starter battery will trigger the coupling of both batteries, independent from the state of the alternator. This results in 2 half charged batteries in worst case. (long storage periods eg) As a deep cycle battery quickly recovers its voltage (but not its charge!) these systems will couple even if the battery is only half full. What we need is (and the marine systems do this) isolation of both batteries as long as charging is not applied. So I want to couple only when there is alternator output. I do not care about priority charging. A battery takes 10% of its rating as max charge current. So with 2x 100ah batteries I need a charge current from the alternator of 20A. Which is absolutely no problem for the standard alternator to deliver. If if would apply priority charging, it would only take double time to have both batteries charged. With this I also want to kill the whole bigger alternator hype. A bigger alternator is only helping during consumption. It will make your batteries last longer while the engine is running. Eg during winch operation. BUT it will not help charging your batteries faster. Another consideration is servicing of the installed system. Will you be able to diagnose and repair a faulty split-charge system in the field? So KISS applies again. While basic it is sometimes mixed up or forgotten and the split-charge systems conveniently forget to mention about it; there is a big difference between charging and discharging circuits. It is clear when the batteries are coupled using 400+A winch over a 80A relay is a bad idea. So these systems are coupling for charging, not for discharging. Setup: Coupling of the batteries is based on the existence of output voltage from the alternator. This presence will trigger a relay and couple the batteries. In addition to this I split this signal cable so I can attach a charger, which will supply the trigger signal in case the engine is not running and the charger is plugged in. A 3 position switch: Automatic: signal is supplied by alternator/charger Off: coupling is prohibited Manual: coupling is active by manually closing the relay
I wired in an inexpensive battery monitor which switches off at 11.5V. This module only has a switching rate of 10A so it is used to disable the aux switches feed. This also means that the batteries are disconnected if the AUX battery falls below 11.5V or is not present. (or when switch is in manual position it will prevent both batteries being discharged lower than 11.5) Simply said, the monitor will override the switch settings to avoid draining the batteries. This has the benefit over a VSR based system that the voltage drop of the monitoring system is only routed to the switches, not to the batteries. So batteries get full alternator voltage, not 0.6v less for the aux battery. Or differently; the switch is deciding how the charging happens and the monitor is there to prevent deep cycling. For discharging from both batteries at the same time, eg jump starting or winching S2 in the drawing can be an Albright high current relay, BUT I would strongly recommend to still have a manual switch in the system. You really want to be able to separate/couple the batteries in case something goes wrong with the setup. Once I will install my winch I will place a second relais in line with the override switch. This relais will disable the charging relais and gets it signal from the winch ON/OFF switch. This way I automatically uncouple the batteries. The manual S2 can then still connect both batteries for maximum capacity BUT the relais will not burn-out as with the ‘override’ functions on the commercial split charge systems. AND the coupling is a manual on-purpose action. From both batteries will go Anderson connectors for jump starting or other high current connections. Puma OEM charging system. Important to know is that Ford introduced a higher alternator voltage to work with newer battery types.(varta-bosh calcium) The Bad side is that classic (cheaper) lead-acid batteries get a charging voltage which is too high and this leads to premature failures. (google ford battery mondeo and you will find all info related) The good side is that you do not need to add a DC/DC charging system to get agm/deep cycle and new batteries fully charged. Batteries Lots of opinions and lots of possibilities. Here’s mine ☺ The key for a starter battery is CA The key for a aux battery is Ah Specialty Dry cell Deep cycle batteries as Optima and exide will not solve this and per Ah are 4x the cost. (I do see their advantages in certain applications but not in an overland vehicle) Bosh and Varta are identical products with a different label. Varta being most of the time a bit cheaper than bosh. The standard LR battery is a Bosh S5 /Varte Silverline 90ah. Both come with 3 year warranty. Both suppliers have also deep cycle versions which are about 10% more expensive AND which are compatible to be used in a dual battery setup with their starter-versions. A second Bosh S5 100Ah will serve as my aux-battery as the original S5 is still ok. For the time being I’ll install a spare yellow top optima once I figured out the battery tray. TBC :) Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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11th Mar 2012 10:54pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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2. TC/ABS OVERRIDE SWITCH
Click image to enlarge The TC system overheating in heavy conditions with “””possible””” brake failure is mentioned more than once in different topics. This with the weak front diff reports and the questionable benefits of TC and full lockers gives you all reasons to put in an override switch. Legal side of things, I had a chat with a friend lawyer, and as in most cases he looks at it from a different angle. You cannot break law, nor can your insurance company or a car manufacturer. This means you cannot make alterations that are illegal. Putting an override switch on a safety feature of a car is not illegal but you have to do it according law. In this case this means that: - A warning light needs to be present indicating and warning the user that the safety system is disarmed. (as on each and every other car with an OEM override switch installed) - Switch and indicators need to have identification so no confusion can exist about their functionality. -Information must be available to the user indicating the dangers and functionality of the switch and warning light. OK, so do we comply in this case? - Override the system with the switch lights up the ABS/TC control light on the dash. Check! - Switch is marked TC/ABS Check! - LR Manual clearly states what a combined brake/ABS dash light means and the possible consequences of it. Check! I choose to not put the TC switch in my switch cluster but use the steering column for it. Avoids switching on/off by accident and gets rid of the novice questions about the functionality of the hole in the column mold. ☺ Remark: For those with air-lockers that want to disable the TC, put a NC relay instead of a switch and power it from the solenoid valve of your locker. If you engage your locker it automatically disengages the TC. Put it on the back locker. Exploding front diff problem solved. TBC :) Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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11th Mar 2012 10:56pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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3. AUX Wiring
Having done a couple of cars in the mean time I got to my own opinion and rules of what works best to me. 1. No centralized power distribution to all users. Too many electrics in one place (fault-finding) and too many power cables running through the car. (risk) 2. Power-Grid distribution approach. Main power lines go to Front-mid-back of car and power from there individual users over relays. This way I have only 3 main power cables to route, I can switch off any of the 3 individually by removing their individual fuses. And in case of a failure of one of the appliances I don’t loose all aux only 1/3rd and know immediately where to go look for the problem. 3. Switches using 7 or 13 trailer connection wire as a bus system running from front to back of car so multiple switches can be installed 4. Absolute separation between original Car and AUX circuits. 5. No direct power through switches, all users go over relays and switch feed current can be used to disable relays functionality. Appliances with own on/off (CB, Inverter, etc) routed directly over fuse. (made an exception for LED lights as they draw almost nothing)
FRONT BOX -USB and AUX sockets - CB and communications - worklight front Signal - AUX spots front Signal - Webasto Signal - Front LED lights
MID BOX - Waterpump - Compressor - Inverter - Wifi -AUX DC-OUT Click image to enlarge REAR - Fridge - AUX DC-OUT - AUX DC Roof - Worklight back - Interior lights LED
Switches CUBY box: SW1: Compressor: ON/OFF SW2: Webasto: ON/OFF (main power, thermo signals over thermostat-module) SW3: Charging ON: Manual: connect batteries OFF: no connection ON: AUTO: connection of batteries when starter battery/ALT/Charger has 12+ volt Switch is guarded by battery monitor and disconnects batteries if AUX battery drops below 11.5V independent from switch position. This also disables the switch feed on SW 1-2-6-7 so no aux equipment can be used till battery is charged again. (no deep cycling) Fridge and Inverter have build in protection so can be permanently connected. SW4: Aux High Beam ON: Manual on OFF: off ON: switched over normal High Beam SW5: Work light Back ON: Manual on OFF: off ON: Switched over Reverse Light SW6: AUX DC roof External connetion at back for eg roofrack lights or RTT interior lights/heater. SW7: AUX DC Cargo Area: Yellow 1: LED interior lights Yellow 2: Work light back Blue: waterpump Red: AUX DC Green 1: AUX DC roof Green 2: Sidelights/ aux DC
TBC :) Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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11th Mar 2012 11:02pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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WABO 222 series anyone?
These work great and are a big time saver. Not the cheapest but good.Vibration resistant, 1 size up to 4mm2,
Main power distribution to the boxes: 25mm2 main line to passenger side, all in tubing and using waterproof fittings
and one for Pouf (this is not on demand, that's how they always sleep) 
TBC :) Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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11th Mar 2012 11:09pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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Power plugs
What to use as power plugs? Million types exists but which ones are best? The stock cigarette lighter plug looks universal but is neither stable nor able to handle decent power. The older style 12VDC plugs are a bit better but the connectors disintegrate quite quickly. My solution, and I have these running for some time in high-amp applications are the Neutrik Speakon range. Build as a tank intended to connect high amp PA systems all day long they last and are rated for a 30A music signal. They come with 2 pairs of pins, which in case of high-amp I pair with a 4x2.5mm2 or 4x 4mm2 cable. They latch in place but are not awkward to remove. The only minus I found with them is that the new range has spade connectors on the chassis part (previous versions were screw-connections) I do solder my wires to them instead of using the 4mm spades.
Neutrik has also a PowerCon variant, but these are rated the same current and about 3 times as expensive. Chassis parts are screw type and if you don’t have anything running the speaker type yet it might be better to go for these instead. (I don’t want to mix so stayed with the speaker type) Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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11th Mar 2012 11:13pm |
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| pouf Member Since: 05 Aug 2010 Location: Athens Posts: 456
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ok, i have to admit that this the only photo i understand 
my probs are 2. if this is reliable for my newfies http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AEOLUS-Double-Mo...6d710bbf72 and how i can use it at expositions to my def? Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated www.newfoundland.gr |
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12th Mar 2012 10:09am |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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Hi Pouf,
The blower can work, BUT...... it has two 1500W motors, this means you'll need a 3000W inverter (continues power, so calculate on 600 euro minimum for a low Q version) This inverter will draw around 300 Amps from your battery, so it will last about 10 minutes....., or maybe 20 with the engine running. No good i would say. Don't know how handy you are but you could source 2 ventilators from a car ventilation system, build them in a box with speed regulator. These will draw about 10-20 amps and give flow-output similar as your car system. Btw, as you are near your car anyway, why not make some "adapter" which fits over the puma top ventilation grids and to which you connect a vacuum cleaner hose. Simply close the second grid, put the ventilation/heating on "in-your-face" so all air is routed to these grids and use the car system for your purpose?? Last edited by tatra805 on 12th Mar 2012 11:14am. Edited 1 time in total |
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12th Mar 2012 10:46am |
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| pouf Member Since: 05 Aug 2010 Location: Athens Posts: 456
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EXELLENT IDEA !!!! www.newfoundland.gr |
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12th Mar 2012 11:08am |
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