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KU310R



Member Since: 16 May 2017
Location: Private
Posts: 30

Malta 
Nolden DRL Installation
I will be installing a set on Nolden Drls but they only came with the diagram below as instructions. I would like them to light up only with the sidelamps switch, not once you turn on the ignition. Can you help me with the wiring please?

Instead of connecting the black & red to the battery, can I connect them to the existing wires for the current side lamps?

And where should I connect the blue wire please?

Thanks!


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Post #693982 17th Mar 2018 10:03am
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discomog



Member Since: 09 May 2015
Location: Notts/Lincs Border
Posts: 2526

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
DRL's should either be extinguished or dimmed when your position lights are switched on. What you are proposing is that your DRL's will stay on full power even when your position lights are switched on. At the moment DRL's are not covered by the MOT but you could be liable under Lighting Regs if your DRL's dazzle other vehicles at night. I'm not sure your insurance company would agree with your proposal either. Defender 90XS SW
Mini Countryman Cooper S
Morgan Plus 8


Last edited by discomog on 17th Mar 2018 11:16am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #693985 17th Mar 2018 10:22am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8580

United Kingdom 
I am not sure where KU310R is located and so what the actual legal requirements would be.


In the UK discomog is correct about DRL and operation.

IIRC the minimum acceptable light output of a DRL is greater then the maximum permitted light output of a side/position light


The light function code for a DRL is RL for a side light it is A


If a DRL is close to an indicator it must dim when indicator flashes.

Maximum number of DRL units is one per side at the front of the vehicle.

Main thing is to check local legal requirements.



Brendan
Post #694001 17th Mar 2018 11:13am
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KU310R



Member Since: 16 May 2017
Location: Private
Posts: 30

Malta 
I am located in Malta and we do not have those legal requirements here.

Having said that, rather than having to find a way to go under the passenger seat will I be able to splice the red and black wire to the main beam black and red cables?

And my biggest issue is the blue wire. Can anyone tell me what it does and what wire should it be connected to?

Thanks for your help, but as you can see car electrics are not my strong point Smile
Post #694018 17th Mar 2018 11:45am
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discomog



Member Since: 09 May 2015
Location: Notts/Lincs Border
Posts: 2526

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
I suspect the blue wire is a feed from the position lamp to the relay to switch off the DRL's when the position lamps are switched on. Defender 90XS SW
Mini Countryman Cooper S
Morgan Plus 8
Post #694020 17th Mar 2018 11:51am
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Tdi4



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

Netherlands 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
The light switch a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover
Post #694021 17th Mar 2018 11:52am
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Tdi4



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

Netherlands 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
in this setup the Power runs through the relais instead of the lightswitch. (Which is much better). The lightswitch turnster the relais on Or off (to put it simply) a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover
Post #694022 17th Mar 2018 11:54am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8580

United Kingdom 
Must admit I am slightly confused about what KU actually is trying to achieve and the logic behind it.

Why buy DRL and not wire them up correctly as DRL's?

If you do not want DRL's wired up correctly but want the ability to have brighter switchable lights on during daytime why not just use dip beam?

I tend to drive on dip beam during daytime so know rear lights are on as well. DRL's on at nighttime no rear lights on.


Back to wiring

Black = negative

Red = positive feed

Wired into side lights then they will come on with side light. These 'DRL's' will be on maximum brightness all the time sude lights are on.


Wired into dip beam then they will come on with dip beam. These 'DRL's' will be on maximum brightness all the time with dip beam on.

Wired direct from battery with switch then these lights will be on full brightness when switch is on.



Correct wiring

Black = negative from battery

Red = ignition fed positive

Ignition switched on these lights are at full brightness

Blue from side lights then

Ignition on full brightness

Sidelights on then DRLs will dim to half brightness which is correct legal function in UK


HTH

Brendan
Post #694028 17th Mar 2018 12:33pm
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KU310R



Member Since: 16 May 2017
Location: Private
Posts: 30

Malta 
Hi Leeds, first of all thank you for your help. I would not like to have the DRLs on every single time I turn the ignition on due to the fact that here in Malta visibility is nearly always good and nearly none of the cars have lights on during the day. I have bought these lights as I had the common China versions (the ones with 4 leds) and I had to change 2 in less than a year.

Having said that and understanding your reasoning in the post above would it be possible to wire them in a way so that they are at full brightness once I turn the sidelamps on (1st position of the short light lever) and they dim once the main beam is on (2nd position of the short light lever)?

Would this be achieved by connecting the red/black to the current sidelamps, and the blue wire to the main headlamp?

Thanks!
Post #694076 17th Mar 2018 4:08pm
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8580

United Kingdom 
To get the DRLs to work at full brightness you need +12 volts on the red and a -ve on black.

A 12 volt signal on the blue will dim the lights. Where this 12 volt signal comes from is irrelevant. Could be from the radio, brake lights or main beam.

What I do not know is if you just had 12 volts on blue and -ve on black would the DRL work at just dim level. Would depend how the actual control unit in the DRLs work.

What I would say is that the quality of the Nolden DRLs is vastly superior to the cheap unbranded ones available but they do cost more then the cheap Chinese lights. Now KU I must inform you that we sell Nolden so people might say we have a commercial interest in Noldens. However it does give me an insight into the quality of Nolden lights. Also means sometimes I get to play with some lights which are not commonly available. Whistle


However I would strongly suggest that you check out local vehicle lighting regulations. What can be a legal requirement is different to what is actually checked in a UK MOT.


Brendan
Post #694135 17th Mar 2018 7:45pm
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KU310R



Member Since: 16 May 2017
Location: Private
Posts: 30

Malta 
Hi Brendan, I have bought the lights from yourself actually from the 4x4 Expo. I will be installing them tomorrow as I didn't have time and I had to make the brackets to hold them in place myself as the standard ones don't fit my setup.

Thanks for your help once again. I will post some pictures and keep you informed on the progress.
Post #694142 17th Mar 2018 7:51pm
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KU310R



Member Since: 16 May 2017
Location: Private
Posts: 30

Malta 
I have managed to install them finally and I am very pleased with them. Below you may find some pictures. Please note that I had to work the brackets myself as they would not fit the svx light surrounds I have in my car.


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Click image to enlarge
Post #694760 19th Mar 2018 8:51pm
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wunnspeed



Member Since: 14 Mar 2015
Location: Oberwil-Lieli
Posts: 1

Switzerland 
Curiously, I installed new LED lights (blinkers, brake, etc.) today. When I got to the top marker lights/DRL and removed the old ones, there was no wiring hooked to either of them. I've got a 2015. Is that a standard thing? Also, would there be wiring somewhere in the fender or no? It just really surprised me is all. Thanks.
Post #870178 28th Nov 2020 8:38pm
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