 | Home > My Defender > My 90 having a full rebuild |
 
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| MetalMatt Member Since: 29 Jul 2016 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 180   
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Well shes all loaded up and ready to come to have the next stage of the rebuild
 put the rear tub on and put the shocks on and diff guards, then roll on the weekend 
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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14th Sep 2016 10:55am |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 11015 
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Looking good
Hope you have a good weekend with the build Clayton.
1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper. |
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14th Sep 2016 9:48pm |
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| MetalMatt Member Since: 29 Jul 2016 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 180
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Well this weekend went mostly well. in terms of getting the body on. Just a few questions. 1) how do you line up the doors and move the bulkhead so its in the correct position.
But here we have some photos of the build
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19th Sep 2016 1:46pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2745 
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1. Mount the rear tub by the rear crossmember tab bolts, leave the front attachment points loose for now.
2. Mount the bulkhead loosely and attach the door to it, leaving a straight and even gap between door and bulkhead pillar of around 5-7mm. Space the bulkhead feet from the outriggers using washers as appropriate to give a similar gap at the other end of the door (this may require adjusting later). 3. Run a piece of string from the bulkhead to the back of the rear tub, in the 'valley' of the barrel-side part of the body - i.e. just below the upper door hinge. Pull it tight both ends. 4. Adjust the rake of the bulkhead (using the slotted forward mounting brackets that go from the footwells to the chassis) and the vertical position of the front of the rear tub to achieve a straight line all the way down the barrel side of the vehicle. This can take some doing! Tighten the fixings. 5.Re-assess the door gap, ensure that the gap at the front and rear of the door are more or less equal and straight (parallel). Obviously if you need to move the bulkhead forward/back you will need to ensure that the rake angle is maintained also. 7. Repeat for other side. |
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19th Sep 2016 4:49pm |
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| MetalMatt Member Since: 29 Jul 2016 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 180
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Thank you for That, Seems to be a pretty straight forward following those steps
will give it ago on the weekend.
when you say space the bulkhead using washers. Is that putting washers inbetween the outrigger and bulkhead? if so how do i remover the bolt and not let the bulkhead drop. Would using a jack taking the weight be the best solution? cheers |
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20th Sep 2016 10:49am |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2745
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Yes.
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21st Sep 2016 7:44pm |
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| MetalMatt Member Since: 29 Jul 2016 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 180
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Well its been quiet some time since i have worked on the 90, about 1.5month. But i have got the doors pretty much lined up, the roof is in position it just needs fastening down now. just got to put the seat rails in and festend those up between the bulkhead and tub.
Click image to enlarge i have also just purchased a TD5 seatbox. My question is as the fuel tank is under the drivers seat. do i need to cut the base out of the seatbox on the drivers side? if so how have people done this?? |
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6th Dec 2016 5:28pm |
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| MetalMatt Member Since: 29 Jul 2016 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 180
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Well this was annoying and unsuspected. Whilst bolting the seatbelt mount to the outrigger it sort of crumbled and fell out. so purchased the repair sections from YRM and spent a whole day fixing the passenger side up. looked over the drivers side and it seems fairly solid but for safety i decided to put the repair pannels on that side as well. Then the sill rails went in and sat the seat box on and its starting to look more like an interior again
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Next is fitting the fuel tank, figure out where to cut the base of the seat box out and fit thast in place, put the floor panels in and seats on the seat box, then its time to do all the pipe work etc on the engine, and then all the wiring for the lights.... Not much left to do!!!! |
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19th Dec 2016 12:16pm |
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| Procta Member Since: 04 Dec 2016 Location: Sunderland Posts: 5301
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looking good there! Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back
In the words of my Good Friend, Gary Forrest 1980 -2025 " we will work something out" |
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8th Jan 2017 6:59pm |
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| MetalMatt Member Since: 29 Jul 2016 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 180
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Cheers
, Slowly getting there and i can start to drive the old girl again |
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10th Jan 2017 10:50am |
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| MetalMatt Member Since: 29 Jul 2016 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 180
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been a productive weekend, got the fuel tank in, managed to fit the seat box in once i had removed the storage box from the drivers side so it would fit over the fuel tank, made up the seat box lid kits and place the floor panels in as time ran out to stop play
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Starting to look more like a 90 again and not a pile of parts
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Next step is to get the seats, cubby box and seat belts in, gearbox tunnel. then thats pretty much the "middle section" of the 90 done. and time to start the pipe work and wings and cooling etc on the "front Section" |
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23rd Jan 2017 11:06am |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 11015
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Nearly finished another section there
looking good with the black and blue combo  Clayton.
1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper. |
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23rd Jan 2017 9:17pm |
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| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10383
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We'll done, nearly there. Keep at it.
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23rd Jan 2017 9:28pm |
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| MetalMatt Member Since: 29 Jul 2016 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 180
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Cheers, got black steel modular wheels with mud tyres on as well but i cant fit those as it wont fit in the container where its kept lol |
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24th Jan 2017 12:01pm |
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