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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554  |
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-SMG000010
i use 11m ring spanner but i use 6 point type and flare nut spanner pipe union Last edited by dorsetsmith on 25th Jul 2016 7:40am. Edited 2 times in total |
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25th Jul 2016 7:26am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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I should elaborate on the title:
Brake caliper, union and bleed and eh? It's not the bleed, but situated kind of between the bleed and the union. The bleed has a nice 11mm hex (or 13mm cant recall, but my 11/13mm flare nut does it). This one is between 9 and 10mm and appears to just be a threaded nut... Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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25th Jul 2016 7:29am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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I cant see it on the TDCI parts thingo:
 Click image to enlarge (14 - 'SMG000010' is the bleed though) Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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25th Jul 2016 7:38am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
yes see my link ^^^^ with pic
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25th Jul 2016 7:41am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Yes?
Click image to enlarge 3/8" ?? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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25th Jul 2016 7:48am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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I've seen your link, the pic on that page is a bleed nipple:
Yes this nipple is on my caliper - it has a nice 11mm nut and a outlet for the fluid. But the bolt I refer to does not have an outlet or an inlet, nor does it have a nice 11mm head. it's more like a 3/8" but that's just a guess. I don't know what it is. Sorry, my pic isn't very clear  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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25th Jul 2016 7:52am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17756  
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I believe that it plugs a hole used to produce the internal fluid galleries in the caliper, and is not generally available as a spare part since there is no need ever to remove it. If you have a damaged one, you will need to determine thread form and dimensions and see if there is anything suitable generally available, or else get one machined for you.
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25th Jul 2016 8:03am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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ahhh, ok... a manufacturing hangover
I guess if you're drilling with a machine centre with ATC or similar it might make sense to quickly tap it then and there (?? rather than plug it up with molten metal in some form or other later (heat = $$)) The non-metric nut size I guess is intended as a first defence in terms of people like me opening it up. But generally available, unlike a left handed and tapered thread with those heads you see on bolts in posh airport toilets  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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25th Jul 2016 8:12am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17756
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It is, I think, likely to be a standard thread (just conceivably BSP though, depending on the age of the tooling). A more interesting question might be how it seals.
Do you actually need to remove it? Provided that it is in-situ and doesn't leak, ot probably doesn't matter if the head has been mullered. |
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25th Jul 2016 9:21am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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I don't need to remove it, especially now I know what it does - er... did
I suppose a conceivable reason would be to assist clearing out gunk etc. if you've had a fun evening pushing out seized pistons with a grease gun. But yeah, it's fine as it is, I wont touch it anymore, my one attempt was just exploratory and I foresaw tears before bedtime so stopped before any movement - or damage - which I predict would have happened first. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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25th Jul 2016 9:33am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17756
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Use an airline - carefully - to clear the passages.
For future projects a useful tip is to eject the pistons as far as practicable before removing the caliper from the vehicle. Also, if you intent the seperate the two halves of the caliper (a controversial subject, I know) then it is often easier to crack the bolts (and torque them up fully afterwards) when the caliper is bolted to the vehicle - it is the easiest way to hold the caliper securely. |
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25th Jul 2016 9:43am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Did it that way  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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25th Jul 2016 9:48am |
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