 | Home > My Defender > Defender 90 TD5 Rebuild / Tribute Build Thread |
 
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| Mash Member Since: 09 Feb 2015 Location: Guernsey Posts: 1674   
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Prop bolt size correct on here but stated as 3/8" on YouTube, other than that cracking vid once again
 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html 110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html 52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html D3 Hse - Fiona Capri 2l S - Anna Think I might have a problem............ |
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12th Jan 2016 10:50pm |
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| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130  
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Latest video is here:
First job of the week was removing old waxoyl and factory applied stone chipping material. When perusing the workshop manual, I noticed that Land Rover recommend dealers use an air powered scraper. These things are superb! Probably my favourite tool at the moment, the whole tub was stripped in under an hour, ready for a reapplication of stone chipping. 
With that done, I moved my attention to the injector loom harness. On the TD5, oil eventually wicks along the wiring into the ECM - this had happened with our vehicle. Hopefully, we've caught it in time. The ECM has been drained and cleaned. 
After removing the rocker cover, it's simply a case of removing the electrical connects for each injector.  Click image to enlarge And then prizing out the main connector for the harness. The new harness drops into place in the same manner. All told, with no body on the vehicle - this takes around 5 minutes.  Click image to enlarge Dropping the rocker cover back onto a new gasket.  Click image to enlarge One of the great things about building a Land Rover in the manner we have, involving a huge community of Land Rover owners, is that we can get real time feedback. One viewer asked us to show how to replace this cylinder head coolant plug. So the exhaust manifold was removed again, and a 12mm allen key sourced.  Click image to enlarge A set of hex sockets are useful to have in the toolbox.  Click image to enlarge As you can apply more force to the socket handle than a humble allen key. The new plug winds in quite nicely.  Click image to enlarge Following the advice of another viewer, we removed the oil cooler housing to replace the internal cooling block. The rotor oil filter housing needed to be removed.  Click image to enlarge And the whole thing is lifted clean off.  Click image to enlarge After stripping it down, we found ours to be in good condition, if not slightly tarnished from coolant / rust.  Click image to enlarge The cooling block is secured by 2 banjo bolts (internally relieved fixings). Thee are not overly tight and so easy to undo.  Click image to enlarge The old coolant block.  Click image to enlarge And the new one dropped in  Click image to enlarge Along with the 2 supplied replacement banjo bolts. An internally rubberised washer sits under the head. 
The gaskets on the oil rotor to sump pipe are also replace 
As we're nearing the point where I'd like to drop the main belt on, I decided to bolt up the power steering pump. This had been reconditioned. 
Now it's time to fit the exhaust. As we're fitting a few tasteful performance upgrades, we've gone for a stainless steel straight through exhaust (with an end silencer). When combined with the Td5, this produces a lovely, throaty burble - with the added benefit of long term corrosion resistance. 
Starting at the turbo, we dropped a new gasket onto the down pipe and bolted the exhaust to the lower face of the turbo outlet. The 10P Td5 doesn't have a CAT or DPF, instead it has a braided flexi joint. 
I took the time to replace all the exhaust mounts. Unfortunately, one of them was only available as a genuine part - pricey stuff! This is the mount for the mid pipe. 
The rear silencer section can be carefully rotated into place without the need for removing any parts 
Time to bust out the welder. I've been using Hobby Weld 5, it's a superb gas to weld with for, well, hobby welders! There's no canister fees to pay and there are dealers all over the country. Hobby Weld 5 is perfectly suited to MIG welding thin metal, which we are about to do, when we repair the bulkhead. 
If you are hobby welder, or weld infrequently, Hobbyweld shielding gases are very cost effective. I also spent a bit of time replacing the torch wire liner, fitted some new tips and shrouds and it's transformed my welds! 
The bulkhead had some pitting that was revealed after blasting. I also stored this in the workshop for a while, which isn't the driest environment, so further rust formed on the surface. Only slightly worse than mill scale though. 
This area too had some corroded metal. Fortunately, there are companies who now produce replacement sections for commonly rusted out areas. Namely YRM Metal Solutions. In this case, I decided to have a go at localised repairs, using pieces that I'll fabricate myself. 
First, the corroding areas were marked and cut out 
I wanted to get back to sound metal to weld my repairs to 
Then I made a cardboard template, this works really well for getting a perfect outline of the repair section to be made 
I picked up a Clarke sheet metal folder to use in matching our repair piece to the form lines of the bulkhead. 
Then MIG welded the repair section in. I tacked the panel every inch or two, to try prevent warp, before filling in sections randomly. 
The end result is a sound repair piece, even if my welds required a lot of grinding. Then, we shipped the whole lot off to the galvanisers. Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it! Land Rover rebuild video series here: Last edited by funrover on 9th Feb 2016 10:05pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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27th Jan 2016 6:20pm |
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| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130
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Latest video:
Write up to follow Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it! Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
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5th Feb 2016 10:15am |
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| Oldyellar Member Since: 04 Sep 2015 Location: Central Posts: 338  
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Great work
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5th Feb 2016 7:10pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10513 
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5th Feb 2016 9:42pm |
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| bga86 Member Since: 17 Jan 2014 Location: Here and there Posts: 205 
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Any updates?
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14th Feb 2016 6:00pm |
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| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130
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Latest video is out here:
Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it! Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
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22nd Feb 2016 11:03am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16892 
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Propshaft flange bolts are 3/8" UNF, and 3/8" UNF bolts have 9/16" AF heads, so both are correct. Having watched the video though there are 2 points I would make re. the propshaft fitment:- 1) The propshaft flange bolts all use nylon insert stiff nuts ('Nyloc' being the best known brand). These should be fitted to unlubricated threads, and applying any kind of lubricant to these bolts is unadvisable. 2) In order for the nylon insert stiff nuts to function correctly it is essential that the bolt protrudes completely through the nylon insert. It is not completely clear on the video, but it appears that the bolts are a fraction too short. LR propshaft flange bolts are not all the same length, those on the front output plange are longer than those on the diff flanges, and I wonder if one siaze has been used throughout. |
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22nd Feb 2016 2:08pm |
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| Pickles Member Since: 26 May 2013 Location: Melbourne Posts: 3755  
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As usual,...EXCELLENT. Just a shame that with all the effort that you are going to, ya never fitted a V8 engine!! Top build. Thanks Pickles. |
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22nd Feb 2016 10:35pm |
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| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130
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Thanks Pickles,
I'm afraid after it's done, there wouldn't be any funds left to keep a V8 running  Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it!
Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
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23rd Feb 2016 11:27am |
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| funrover Member Since: 12 Dec 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 130
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Latest video here:
Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it! Land Rover rebuild video series here: |
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11th Mar 2016 9:43pm |
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| harry44 Member Since: 22 Nov 2015 Location: cheshire Posts: 6 |
your youtube series is great, have a quick question for you, also doing series doors, but not sure which way the seal between the bottom and top piece of the doors go on, could you take a picture for reference for me?
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20th Mar 2016 6:16pm |
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