 | Home > Td5 > Oil pump bolt, should I worry? |
 
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| Ratty Member Since: 19 Mar 2009 Location: Somerset Posts: 37  
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If you're worried about the oil pump bolt you might wanna check into the cracked heads, nylon head dowels and oil ingress in the injector wiring loom too.
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4th Sep 2009 7:56pm |
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| AndrewS Member Since: 10 Apr 2007 Location: Hereford Posts: 3707  
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The oil ingress should be all over by now shouldn't it.
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4th Sep 2009 8:53pm |
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| Ratty Member Since: 19 Mar 2009 Location: Somerset Posts: 37
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In theory it should be but I'm still coming across a lot of vehicles with oil in the loom.
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4th Sep 2009 8:57pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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My 2003 has oil in the wiring loom. But also water in the ECU so I need a new one. ECU off-course. Roel
1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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4th Sep 2009 9:16pm |
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| Steve B Member Since: 22 May 2009 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 586 
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I like doing preventative maintenance hence the question, I will be flushing the cooling system and fitting a new radiator soon so that should stop any overheating (cracked heads, nylon dowels) it's done 100k miles so they can't be that bad, just dont like being overheated. I looked at the wiring loom when I bought it and no sign either end of any oil, maybe it has been replaced sometime. The one I would like an answer too is the oil pump bolt, I will just take the sump off and check it for peace of mind and apply some fresh loctite. I just thought someone might know this problem didn't effect Defenders. Thanks for your replys. Steve |
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5th Sep 2009 7:41am |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6487 
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Yes it does affect the Defender as the basic engines in the Defender and Disco 2 are identical.
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7th Sep 2009 9:51am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7706 
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i had a 99 Def with 105k on it when i sold it, dont worry about it, other more important things to worry about rather than one bolt. if the oil pressure lights come on when driving, stop straight away then worry about it.
You can spend toooooo much time worrying about things Cheers James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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8th Sep 2009 11:34am |
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| Steve B Member Since: 22 May 2009 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 586
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Took the sump off today, oil pump bolt was fine, only a small amount of loctite though ie 1 thread with a little.
A friend of mine had a disco td5 which failed, his gf stalled the car and drove for 15 miles with the oil light on, the sump bolt had unscrewed and damaged the sump also. He retightened the bolt and all was well until the vehicle stalled again and the big ends failed? What I can think of this is that stalling the td5 can produce some torsional shocks which can untighten the bolt, maybe I'm wrong but just thought I would throw this out there for all the 2k td5 owners. Also changed the oil, oil filter and centrifuge filter. This is the first oil change I have given it since buying it in June and can genuinely say I can feel the difference, the oil drained out looked pretty horrible though. |
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19th Sep 2009 12:11am |
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| Ohlins Member Since: 20 Oct 2009 Location: French Pyrénées Posts: 28 
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Just came across this thread as I too was thinking about the oil pump bolt. I have a buddy here who has(I think it's a 1999 model year 130)and we will be doing some wee bits and pieces to it this up and coming week. As I am a 300tdi driver I am having to do a bit of research concerning the td5...
As for the theory of driving until something happens...I don't subscribe to that personally...to save thousands of pounds by checking and tightening a bolt over a cup of tea is a no brainer...They have buzzers for lights left on,seat belts not connected and doors open...but they won't fit same for temperture or oil pressure...go figure eh? Anyway..I digress...I would just like to ask,to check the bolt is it just take off sump and it'll be in plain view?....Any idea of torque setting when tightening (or is it just 'really tight' lol) and is loctite 243 good enough to use? Thanks  |
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16th Apr 2010 8:14am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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Ohlins,
Loctite 271 is better with a 'strong' strength rating for fasteners up to 1" Loctite 243 is 'medium' strength for fasteners up to 3/4" Up to you! Personally 271 would be the one for me!   If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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16th Apr 2010 8:27am |
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| Ohlins Member Since: 20 Oct 2009 Location: French Pyrénées Posts: 28
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Thanks for that...
I will get what you suggest..... Better safe than sorry and all that i suppose lol I take it it's in plain view and easy to get at from the sound of things??? Thanks again... |
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18th Apr 2010 9:36pm |
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| glpinxit Member Since: 31 Jul 2010 Location: rural Somerset Posts: 152
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For the benefit of anyone returning to this thread, yes you can see the bolt at the front of the engine when you drop the sump. The oil pump is chain driven so you see the sprocket/chain and it is the single bolt in the middle securing the sprocket.
If you order a LR genuine part bolt it comes pre-treated with the specified sealant now. But you need to de-grease the threads you screw it into by using something like aerosol electrical contact cleaner mopped out with a twist of kitchen paper (repeated a few times). Bear in mind that the sump is an ally casting and the sump bolts need removing (and refitting and torquing) in the prescribed order. Also that you need to jack (and support) the front of the chassis quite high so the front axle droops far enough to remove the sump. But removing the sump prematurely leaves you working under constant dripping oil so it is better to replace the oil pump bolt with the sump below the engine. You can then remove the sump to fit the new sump gasket (which then proceeds to wander about and make life difficult when refitting the sump). Cheers, Guy. |
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31st Jul 2010 10:14am |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6041 
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I've got an ex disco engine in my garage i'm rebuilding (for an upcoming project90), which had the oil pump bolt come out.
So far: 5 "spun" main and big end bearing shells. the crank may get away with just a polish, as opposed to a re-grind, will have to see. The cam also ruined one of it's bearings in the head. and the "bearing" isn;t actually a bearing, it's a machined hole where the cam shaft fits in, so if it's mullered (as mine is), then it's a new head, as they can't be milled out and replaced (i had an email chit-chat with Freda Turner, of Turners engineering, and she said they've never done one or seen on done (I was thinking about having the head milled out and some shells fitted like the main/big ends have)) So... for the sake of an hour or so faffing about, i'd drop the sump and have a quick look.... this engine was damaged about 6 months ago, and it's an early 10P one, so there are still vulnerable ones "out there" 
Also, when i pulled the head off, it had the poxy plastic dowels... and they were quite mis-shaped... suprising how much the head could have moved even with 12 large bolts holding it in place! At least i'll have a nice rebuilt engine at the end of it... I managed to pick up a decent used pressure tested head (complete with cam and cam locating frame) for £150! happy days!! |
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31st Jul 2010 10:31pm |
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