 | Home > Technical > Removing Loading Bay Floor - 110 DC |
 
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2200   
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I'm afraid its a no-go trying to remove the floor panel in a DC. As the rear body is that of a station wagon the floor extends right upto the underside of the back seats. Therefore the load area bulkhead effectively sandwiches the floor to the chassis.
If you follow the dimensions to cut an access hole however for any 110 td5 model you should have no problem as the tank is the same and in the same location. I cannot comment on the floor braces as I haven't taken the floor out of our DC Cheers Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread 84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale |
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4th Jul 2014 11:42am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16892 
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It's really not difficult to drop the tank on a 110, especially on a DC which doesn't have an ARB. I have removed mine twice for various reasons (it's a TDCi but there's no significant difference) and even including taking off the DB adjustable towbar it only takes 1/2 hour to remove and about the same to refit. You will want as little fuel as possible in the tank though.
Another advantage is that you can clean the inevitable black "diesel bug" slime out of the tank while you're at it. I reckon that I could drop and refit my tank in less time than it takes to cut a hole in the floor and make good afterwards. |
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4th Jul 2014 11:49am |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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I know it's theoretically quick enough to drop, but knowing my luck, things wont be simple and rust will cause me severe issues!
Is there a tank drain plug at all (should go out and look, but currently at work, might nip out at lunch!)? Most weekends I have a pretty full tank, so would have to drop it, then refill it. It's just fact of having to the job 2 or 3 times as I cant afford to have a pump 'on-standby' with the £250 price tag, plus having to rig up an external way of testing the pump. In situe, this is all set-up already ... And makes potential trouble shooting elsewhere more simple. Not sure what to do ... Would make future (inevitable) failures easier to. Just dont want to go cutting the braces! |
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4th Jul 2014 12:28pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
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I did mine, a station wagon recently, and cut the access hole for mine. If you look for http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic28189.html. You'll find pictures in the thread. You don't cut the braces off, just trim them to give you a bit more room. It's not a difficult job, bit fiddly to keep things neat but if you're going to put a access hole cover you can make a really tidy job, mine has a built in ply box in the back so the floor is covered anyway so you can't see it.
With the hole in there now I know that I could do a pump change in around 20 minutes, most of that would be taken up with emptying the junk out of the box to get to the cover. No worrying about how much fuel is in there, disturbing the tow bracketry and only needs a screwdriver, can be done on the side of the road if necessary. |
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4th Jul 2014 12:57pm |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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Had a quick look.
No drain. Would of been handy if there was! I only filled up yesterday, so I will have to run it through next week and maybe fill up a 20ltr Jerry to fill the tank once back on. Bolts dont look to bad. 2x Nuts in the rear crossmember and 2 Hex Bolts underneath. Just hope what I assume to be welded nuts on the other side are still solid! I may still consider a small hatch for future, but will make one as to avoid the bracing. Maybe enough to just get hands in and see what's going on. Once the tanks out I can just cut one of the inner oblong sections out in between the brace rails. Load bed is lined anyway and I was considering some 3mm Chequer Plate anyway. On a side note, by exhaust joint looked like a dried out cookie. Using my finger I basically broke a good 80% of one of the nuts off! Pipes dont looks bad, but blimey them bolts look shagged! May need to get the A-Frame off to and get some fresh nuts and bolts there to before they get the point of no return! |
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4th Jul 2014 12:59pm |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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Oh yes, the tow bar bracing has to come off to by the looks of it!
JWL: Link not working, but think I've read through it before. I'm still 50/50 on what to do, so will have another read through! It's the quick access I like! |
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4th Jul 2014 1:02pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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It's not too scary to do, you've got a good inch and more on the 3 sides away from the front facing edge and even that has at least a half inch of space under the floor. Plenty of room to use a 115mm grinder with a thin cutting disc, cutting away at the braces is preferred to give you room to get your hands in. Once done you'll be wondering why you ever thought of dropping the tank!
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4th Jul 2014 1:13pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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Sorry about the link, it seems my tablet doesn't like copy and paste. The title was "Access to a fuel pump Td5" in the Maintenance and Modifications section on this forum.
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4th Jul 2014 1:22pm |
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| alwoodley72 Member Since: 14 Mar 2010 Location: salisbury, wilts Posts: 720 
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Hi, did mine at weekend-10 mins with grinder/chisel, floor is spot welded to north south stiffener.. Cut east west steel stiffener, no way you can get pump and hands in there.. Make sure you get rubber seal on pump seated on tank before you push pump down( it's spring loaded, fun to do big knurled nut up!!..) I got a pump from Craddocks for £80 odd plus dreaded, not britpart and looks identical to original... My dc has an anti roll bar.. And it's ' in situ'.....
 do it!!
Hope that helps!! Cheers. Alex |
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10th Jul 2014 12:50am |
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| epictrail Member Since: 21 Sep 2013 Location: High Wycombe Posts: 395 
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Be very careful of buying cheap pumps that fail quickly.
Best to get OEM quality for longer life
Easy to fit once the hole is cut in the floor. Big thanks to Ian from IRB for his help in hole cutting!! |
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10th Jul 2014 8:49am |
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| adafish Member Since: 30 Mar 2009 Location: atherstone Posts: 1376
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done the same here....have the measurements if you want them for cutting in the right place.. Putting Dreams on Drives at JLR Solihull..
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10th Jul 2014 10:43am |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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Before I go for a pump, I'm going to try injector seals and o-rings, fuel pressure regulator and also the fuel filter body (and filter of course), which all need doing anyway.
Adafish, if you have the dimensions then it would be great if you could post them, so that I have them at the ready. Even if this does cure the issues temporarily, with me just about to hit 92,000, I'm pretty sure the pump wont be far off now! Especially with it having to work extra hard the past couple weeks! As to pumps, I will probably stick to Siemens/VDO OEM. |
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10th Jul 2014 12:45pm |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663
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Is it only the E-W stiffener that has to be cut too?
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10th Jul 2014 12:45pm |
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