 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Anti Roll Bars |
 
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| epictrail Member Since: 21 Sep 2013 Location: High Wycombe Posts: 395   
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This is worth a read
http://www.extreme4x4.co.uk/acatalog/LRM_i...%20Kit.pdf |
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27th Nov 2013 11:51pm |
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| Macpaul Member Since: 26 Mar 2013 Location: SW Surrey Posts: 439 
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I think you'll have no problem at all if yours is a 2009. On my 2003, the mounting points were already there if a little rusty and gunged up. Some of the holes in the chassis brackets for the clamps weren't big enough so had to drill out but other than that, pretty straightforward job. Made my 110 stop handling like a cross channel ferry.  2003 Td5 110 Hardtop
Now a 2013 110 USW too. |
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28th Nov 2013 2:13am |
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| Nur Links Member Since: 25 Jul 2013 Location: Sodom (or Gomorra) in the Low Countries Posts: 35 |
Like you, my 90 Puma didn;t have any roll bars when I bought it from its previous owner. It's a so called "E" spec car which is sold (in some countries) as a very base spec car, mainly to utilities, etc...
Since my car was rolling about like an alcoholic and did not handle at all I wanted to fit anti roll bars as well. I fitted a kit put together with a mix of OE and aftermarket parts, which Devon 4x4 had specced for me. The parts are surprisingly cheap! All the fittings and fixings were on the car, so fitting the bars is no problem at all! This should be the same on your car. If you want to improve (on road) handling and comfort I can also recommend changing your shock absorbers. IMHO the OE dampers are crap with very limited damping, particularly on rebound on the rear. This was already apparent when driving and to check we put them on a test bench, which confirmed my thoughts. I changed them for a set of Bilsteins, which we modified internally to improve the characteristics further. The change in handling and comfort is incredible. I just took the car 2500kms to Southern Spain. If you want, I can PM you a spec list for the ARB's |
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28th Nov 2013 9:37am |
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| epictrail Member Since: 21 Sep 2013 Location: High Wycombe Posts: 395
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Why not just post the spec list for the bars here as i'm sure others would be interested
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28th Nov 2013 10:02am |
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| Nur Links Member Since: 25 Jul 2013 Location: Sodom (or Gomorra) in the Low Countries Posts: 35 |
Ok, hope all this part numbers make interesting reading
 . Please make sure that you check the part numbers or call Devon to check. No affiliation with them whatsoever! They just were the only ones to give me a well thought out "fire and forget" solution. I copied this from the packing list I received from them:
NTC6776-BP STRAP NTC6828-AM BUSH (L:6.21 NTC6828) FS110356 SCREW (L:0.29) NY110047L-AM M10 NYLOC NUT 985 BZP (L:0.95 LR033037-BP NY110047L) BAR - ROLL NTC1888-BM Anti Roll Bar Ball Joint RYG501480-BM Anti Roll Bar Pin NV116041L-AM NUT (L:0.52 NV116041L) EGP1889-BM Anti Roll Bar Bush EGP1661L-BP BRACKET FS108207L-BP SCREW FLANGED HEAD FY108046-BP NUT - HEX. LR033038-BM Anti Roll Bar Assembly Rear RYG501490-BM Anti Roll Bar Pin FY116046-AM NUT - HEX. (L:0.52 FY116046) The Bilstein shocks I ordered direct. It's their basic damper which I had adapted to give it a more progressive (instead of degressive!) characteristic and more damping (bump and rebound, with a lot more rebound on the rear). The handling now resembles that of a car instead of a tugboat on pogo sticks. The OE dampers are strange: the original 110 dampers have the same characteristic as the 90 dampers, while the weight, length and rear overhang are very different. Efficient in production but not the best choice for owners. Some cars seem to have gas dampers ex works, others don't. Odd. I want to drive the car more to see if an upgraded ARB on the rear would improve things even more. I took the car offroad in the Sierra Nevada on the way to Spain and for me the modifications had no negative side effects. Further, my car is on Michelin Latitude Cross, which are what someone described in another thread as "ice cream van tyres", so no MT's. They are a very deliberate choice since 90% of my driving is on road or dirt roads, so no extreme stuff. I know: I'm a pussy! In Southern Spain it rarely rains, so I have little use for a "mud" tyre. I'm very happy with these tyres. [/list] |
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28th Nov 2013 10:59am |
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| o4dn Member Since: 08 Jan 2010 Location: South West Posts: 530  
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Thanks all for your replies! Much helpful!
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28th Nov 2013 10:37pm |
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| o4dn Member Since: 08 Jan 2010 Location: South West Posts: 530
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LRM article is about fitting ARB on a 110, and while the front is obviously the same, the rear will differ. Would someone with a 90 fitted with ARB from factory be so nice to take a fews pics of the setup on a 90?
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4th Dec 2013 8:50pm |
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| df1 Member Since: 06 Aug 2011 Location: Ireland Posts: 221 |
How did you alter the shocks ?
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6th Dec 2013 8:18pm |
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| borderterrier Member Since: 09 Dec 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 1677 
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http://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=pr...duct_id=77
huge difference |
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6th Dec 2013 8:44pm |
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| Nur Links Member Since: 25 Jul 2013 Location: Sodom (or Gomorra) in the Low Countries Posts: 35 |
[quote="df1"]How did you alter the shocks ?[/quote]
To measure and alter the shocks you need experience and professional equipment. 1. A 'sensitive backside' to feel what the dampers are doing right and wrong during driving 2. A professional shock absorber test bench and a computer hooked up to it. To establish settings, measure pre and post modification and to correlate with test drive. 3. In case of gas pressured shocks (Bilstein, Ohlins, etc...) a (de-)pressure and vacuum system The guys who run my racing cars have the equipment and a lot of experience with suspension setup and damper modifications. They're also an official Ohlins technical center. Apart from all the competition cars they've now done several Defenders. I'm really happy with the results and so are the other owners. Amazing what you can achieve with some basic Bilstein dampers and some TLC. |
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7th Dec 2013 10:44am |
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| df1 Member Since: 06 Aug 2011 Location: Ireland Posts: 221 |
Thanks for the info. Never knew it could be done.
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7th Dec 2013 8:59pm |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 667  
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This is probably what i am going to go for
Did you fit it yourself? Any problems? |
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8th Dec 2013 9:21am |
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| o4dn Member Since: 08 Jan 2010 Location: South West Posts: 530
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Quick follow up, I've ordered and fitted anti-roll bars,and as you said, handling is definitely much better on road and fitting was an easy job actually, no drilling needed, everything was there in place ready on the axles and chassis.
I do have one concern though, on the rear, I find the ball joint assembly to be fairly bent toward the front which I find odd, as if the anti-roll bar was too long. Is this normal? I don't have access to a vehicle with ARB mounted from factory to use as a reference.  Click image to enlarge [/img] |
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6th Jan 2014 6:53pm |
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| timbar Member Since: 30 Jul 2013 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 245 
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I had a good chat with a recovery chap who came to pick up a contract car from us last year when he found we had a 110. He mentioned we should get roll bars -- its our family car -- but I immediately figured he meant a roll cage. Now I'm not so sure.
I'm interested in adding a rollbar at the rear -- we have what looks like a standard one -- but I'm wondering if there are any insurance implications for a mod like this? 2009 110 XS Station Wagon |
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6th Jan 2014 10:43pm |
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