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SGH



Member Since: 27 Sep 2010
Location: Hellingly-Sussex
Posts: 1527

United Kingdom 
I went for an ali one and got it powder coated.


Click image to enlarge
Post #244926 19th Jun 2013 8:35pm
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mrandmrsh



Member Since: 31 May 2010
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 692

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
K9F wrote:
Not Terrafirma.....First Four.

http://www.firstfour.co.uk/item/714342/def...ent-bumper


Sorry to be thick but how do the recovery points fasten or were they optional add ons to the bumper?

I have an svx-fronted 110 with standard bumper. I want to put my a-bar back on because I think they look great and when I have saved up might dangle some extra lights from it but am not sure about what to do for front recovery point. JATE rings are a PITA to get to. So maybe get a steering guard with recovery points but I like your set up.

TIA
Craig 2015 110 USW XS in Santorini with premium contrast leather seats in tan/black, black headlining and with Dual Finish alloys (in the garage, now on Wolf rims with Goodyear MT/Rs)

2012 '62' 2.2 X-Tech 110 USW now gone ...
1984 90 soft top with full roll cage, 200 tdi engine etc now sold
2012 USW XS 2.2 "FUU" now gone....
Post #244949 19th Jun 2013 9:31pm
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mrandmrsh



Member Since: 31 May 2010
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 692

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
Ahh sorry have looked at FF bumper as used by K9F on ipad rather than phone and can see recovery points. Very nice and under stated. Thumbs Up 2015 110 USW XS in Santorini with premium contrast leather seats in tan/black, black headlining and with Dual Finish alloys (in the garage, now on Wolf rims with Goodyear MT/Rs)

2012 '62' 2.2 X-Tech 110 USW now gone ...
1984 90 soft top with full roll cage, 200 tdi engine etc now sold
2012 USW XS 2.2 "FUU" now gone....
Post #244952 19th Jun 2013 9:39pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
The recovery points are actually welded as part of the manufacturing process to the bumper. Due to the close fitting of the SXV style steering guard and the cutouts on the top edge it will not fit with the recovery eyes (the cutouts can be seen clearly in BPman's picture). I had to take an angle grinder to the guard and take off about a 2" X 1" piece either side where the eyes are. My guard was already looking tired so I then had it powder coated black and it fitted perfectly. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #244955 19th Jun 2013 9:43pm
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keith



Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 2163

Scotland 
I think killer is working on a new aluminium guard . Due for sale sooon I believe .
Post #244959 19th Jun 2013 9:48pm
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8578

United Kingdom 
What happens when you buy cheap steering guards



Click image to enlarge
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If something is cheap there is normally a good or should that be a bad reason for it.


Changing subject slightly.

Shackles of the same pin diameter.

In general terms stainless has a lower rating then galvanised steel.

Dee shackles are normally stronger then bow shackles, however the bow shackle can be a more useful shape for getting loops in.


Brendan

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #244975 19th Jun 2013 10:38pm
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rossy



Member Since: 29 Nov 2010
Location: Co. Roscommon
Posts: 1296

Ireland 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
x-isle wrote:
Alloy looks a bit nicer when bare. Steel will/should be galvanised so not too shiny.

The brackets shouldn't be alloy, they should still be galvanised.

As for thickness, if going for an alloy plate with galvanised brackets, you should go for 10mm brackets and 8mm plate.

If you go for all galvanised, then you don't require the plate to be so thick.

After looking around for mine, I ended up going with the Paddocks PM716 as the price is great and the finish is actually brilliant. http://www.paddockspares.com/pm716-heavy-d...ender.html

The other thing to consider is are you going to actually use it or is it for show? If you are going to be smacking the life out of it every couple of days, then possibly the full galvanised one would be better.

In my opinion, if there is a chance that you will be using it, even occasionally, then I wouldn't go for any painted or powder coated one.


I've got the same one as x-isle. Looks great and excellent value for money. Thumbs Up
Post #245038 20th Jun 2013 8:57am
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farmer giles



Member Since: 09 Feb 2011
Location: worcestershire
Posts: 1299

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Cairns Blue
Sphere wrote:
I am thinking of removing mine and fitting the military style bar and possibly dan bars. Mainly as I am putting a multi mount on the front for the snowplough and winch and don't want to cut the guard but partly I find when I am stuck it acts a a plough when being recovered backwards and lifts the front wheels out of traction when going forward


i've got a nearly new military bar not yet fitted - if your steering guard is a mantec/land rover one i would happily swap (plus cash as yours is more expensive)?
Post #245052 20th Jun 2013 9:44am
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d j hutton



Member Since: 30 Jul 2009
Location: Dorset
Posts: 1044

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
rossy wrote:
x-isle wrote:
Alloy looks a bit nicer when bare. Steel will/should be galvanised so not too shiny.

The brackets shouldn't be alloy, they should still be galvanised.

As for thickness, if going for an alloy plate with galvanised brackets, you should go for 10mm brackets and 8mm plate.

If you go for all galvanised, then you don't require the plate to be so thick.

After looking around for mine, I ended up going with the Paddocks PM716 as the price is great and the finish is actually brilliant. http://www.paddockspares.com/pm716-heavy-d...ender.html

The other thing to consider is are you going to actually use it or is it for show? If you are going to be smacking the life out of it every couple of days, then possibly the full galvanised one would be better.

In my opinion, if there is a chance that you will be using it, even occasionally, then I wouldn't go for any painted or powder coated one.


I've got the same one as x-isle. Looks great and excellent value for money. Thumbs Up


Ditto - I have that one on both my vehicles, finish has stayed good for 6 years on the 90, no rust! Recommended Thumbs Up

DJ 1989 200tdi 90 csw
2011 110 usw Orkney grey

Buy British 🇬🇧

Defender Clothing Designs available at http://www.rangesports.com/acatalog/Defender-Stuff.html
Post #245056 20th Jun 2013 9:48am
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JSG



Member Since: 12 Jul 2007
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2412

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
West Midlands 4x4 - looks the business, very solid and the bars can be replaced if you bend one, not that likely though as they are challenge tested.


Click image to enlarge
 John

http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk

2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS
Post #245165 20th Jun 2013 6:31pm
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Arierep



Member Since: 13 Apr 2013
Location: Portugal
Posts: 258

Portugal 1995 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Alpine White
I'm using a Paddock HD Galv steel plate, and really happy with it.
It's not that heavier than the good aluminum ones (18kg) and can take a beating, and I mean a good beating.

The recovery eyes are also handy, and besides being hot dipped galvanised I painted mine with zinc ritch black paint. Looks great and ends being extremelly rust resistant
Post #245168 20th Jun 2013 6:54pm
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Sphere



Member Since: 26 Apr 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 725

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Keswick Green
farmer giles wrote:
Sphere wrote:
I am thinking of removing mine and fitting the military style bar and possibly dan bars. Mainly as I am putting a multi mount on the front for the snowplough and winch and don't want to cut the guard but partly I find when I am stuck it acts a a plough when being recovered backwards and lifts the front wheels out of traction when going forward


i've got a nearly new military bar not yet fitted - if your steering guard is a mantec/land rover one i would happily swap (plus cash as yours is more expensive)?


I am afraid it's not a lr or Manteca one. It's a aftermarket alloy one that came with the vehicle. Pm if your still interested I haven't got round to removing it yet.
Post #245667 22nd Jun 2013 8:09pm
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