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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6329

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
springs
last time I fitted any springs to a car it was sat on a couple of 40 year old home made wooden tressels, clearly this isn't an option with the defender (the tressels are good, but not that good). Very Happy

so being on the verge of a numpty (I do at least appreciate the standard bottle jack under the axle isn't gonna get me where I want), so what kit do I need and where to replace rear springs........

please don't ask why Embarassed
Post #226215 11th Apr 2013 7:27am
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appaloosadude



Member Since: 17 Oct 2012
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 630

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Havana
A long reach jack, and tall axle stands, spring compressors, and wheel chocks. Would be my recommendation.
Post #226217 11th Apr 2013 7:29am
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6329

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
damn. got none of those....well can probably do the chocks.

anyone know how high the axles stands need to be and where to located them?

many thanks.
Post #226218 11th Apr 2013 7:34am
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appaloosadude



Member Since: 17 Oct 2012
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 630

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Havana
Ok, the way I'd do a REAR spring:

Handbrake on, chock front wheels. Remove rear wheel.

Spring compressor on, and remove spring retainer. Jack vehicle up by chassis, using axle stands to make safe as you go. Old Spring out, new spring compressed, retainer fitted. Let compressor out as much as dared. Lower chassis back down, examining spring seating as you go.

I hope this helps, others may be along to advise better or different methods. I've made the assumption that you are capable, and have more than an ounce of common sense, with regards to lifting heavy vehicles, and using tools. Thumbs Up
Post #226309 11th Apr 2013 3:23pm
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Glynparry25



Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

Wales 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green
I guess we are talking Defender...... if yes, REALLY EASY:

1. Chock front wheels.
2. Remove either top or bottom of the rear shocks (whichever is easiest).
3. Jack the back of the truck up (Chassis, not axle).

4. At this point the springs will just be sat there. and can be taken out.

5. Put back together in reverse order 3, 2, 1.

No need to remove wheels or spring compressors. Last time I did a set, I used a trolley-jack and chock of wood in the middle of the rear cross member (where the tow plate was) and changed both springs at the same time. Do all the prep work before lifting that way you are only under the vehicle for about 1 minute.

Glyn Dog Sheep


Last edited by Glynparry25 on 11th Apr 2013 3:32pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #226313 11th Apr 2013 3:29pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20803

United Kingdom 
Glynparry25 wrote:

No need to remove wheels or spring compressors.

Glyn Dog Sheep

Probably safer too as with the wheel still on it would have less distance to drop and also the brake disc / axle wouldn't go flat on the floor if the jack gave way... _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
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Post #226316 11th Apr 2013 3:31pm
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Glynparry25



Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

Wales 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green
Just remembered though.

WATCH THE BRAKE PIPE (from body to axle). The springs will come loose before it gets tight, but still keep an eye on it just to be sure Thumbs Up

Glyn Dog Sheep
Post #226319 11th Apr 2013 3:34pm
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bm52



Member Since: 04 Apr 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 2189

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Havana
If you have a stiff ARB might also undo the brackets to aid with articulation re spring removal. Worked well for me and no need for a spring compressor. BM52
Post #226337 11th Apr 2013 4:06pm
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