![]() | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Boost alloy Wheelnuts Siezed? |
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K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Scaffolding pole over rattle gun as the force applied to achieve the goal can be more controlled is my personal view.
Good luck! ![]() Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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GUM97 Member Since: 05 Feb 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3555 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Try a windy gun, but they don's always work
![]() "Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948" ![]() |
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ibexman Member Since: 13 Dec 2008 Location: Essex Posts: 2963 ![]() ![]() |
Ive resorted to a jack on to wheel brace that usually does the trick
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macduff Member Since: 04 Nov 2012 Location: NE Posts: 119 ![]() ![]() |
All the standard nuts on the rear axle ![]() ![]() |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17754 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If you have factory fit locking wheel nuts then don't use a windy gun on them, especially if they have been brutally overtightened (and it sounds like yours have). If you do, the "key" will split.
If your nuts have been drastically overtightened, check the studs for 'necking' before refitting (replace any that appear in any way damaged) and consider replacing the nuts, you really don't what the wheel overtaking you on the road. When refitting, smear copper grease over the contact surface between the wheel and the hub, the studs, and the contact faces on the nuts. Then use a torque wrench to tighten them (98lbfft, if I recall). You will be surprised how un-tight this actually is (you can easily do them up properly with a good quality 3/8" sq dr socket without risking the tool). For some reason wheel nuts and spark plugs have always been victim to people who seem to think that the tighter they are done up the better! Cretins. PS - if you have (or have access to) one, one of the traditional "spiders" is great for undoing these nuts, especially the lockers, since it is easy to apply a true torque to the nut without any radial force (which is very difficult to avoid with a single-arm tool). Highly recommended. |
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couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
When my nuts are tight (
![]() Good luck. Simon |
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Dave-H Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 1507 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Almost in agreeance with blackwolf - apart from copper slip/grease on the wheel studs.
Professional practice is clean and dry thread, no lubrication. No ifs or buts. Manufacturer torque specs are for unlubed threads unless otherwise specified. The 'copper slip or not' issue on wheel studs is a real can of worms in professional circles lol ![]() |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17754 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Seldom has a truer word been written! |
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couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I think the advice about copper grease was for the contact surfaces, not the thread....if that makes a difference...?
Cheers Simon |
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GUM97 Member Since: 05 Feb 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3555 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
In my workshop (HGVs), use Copper grease on a wheel nut and I'll sack you, on the spot. I've seen too many wheels lost due to copper grease, so it really is a no no as far as I'm concerned. An engine to TDi for! "Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948" ![]() |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17754 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
For a period of over 10 years the Land-Rover handbook supplied with new vehicles instructed that when you had removed a wheel you should put a drop of oil on each stud to facilitate future removal.
I thought it instructed thus and have just checked to ensure my memory wasn't playing tricks. Although LR no longer says this, the technology hasn't changed especially with steel wheels. For the record, although I do this on my LR wheels I don't on my larger vehicles and never on duallies, never on multi-axles.. I check all wheel nut torques frequently and regularly. If in doubt I suggest (as mentioned above) minimal antiseize on the surfaces that contact the wheel but not the thread, keep this clean and dry. |
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ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328 ![]() ![]() |
IF and I mean IF all else fails tighten them up a BITthen try to undo
Really a last resort as hub damage is possible Good luck ![]() |
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macduff Member Since: 04 Nov 2012 Location: NE Posts: 119 ![]() ![]() |
Won't get my breaker bar and deep socket until later in the week but on a positive note the locking nut on the offside rear wheel was torqued to the correct spec and came undone ok. Will need to turn it around to check the nearside as its close against a wall. Slightly confused (maybe not) as to why a numpty would wind the normal ones on like a gorilla then get the locking ones on correctly hey ho.
As an aside its been serviced annually regardless of mileage by the local LR dealers by the previous owner ![]() |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17754 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
It may be that the lockers were tightened by hand but the others were windy-gunned.
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