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df1



Member Since: 06 Aug 2011
Location: Ireland
Posts: 221

Free play in back axle ?
I checked the amount of play in my back axle today by marking the input drive shaft and the axle.

I then turned the shaft for the full amount of free play and marked the axle at the new point.

All in all the shaft turns 15mm at the outside of the drive shaft flange before the wheels turn.

Anyone know would this be excessive or could anyone check what a new one is ?
Post #212740 20th Feb 2013 7:55pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4407

United Kingdom 
Generally folks reckon that anything up to 1/4 turn of free play at the rear wheel is "ok", especially on salisbury axles.

It is most likely that the free play is in the splines of the hub to half shaft and can be improved by replacing the hubs at very little cost and effort. If you want better then you can also replace the half shafts as well.
Post #212743 20th Feb 2013 8:01pm
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df1



Member Since: 06 Aug 2011
Location: Ireland
Posts: 221

I reckon it's probably about 1/8 of a turn, or maybe a little more, might pull out half shafts tomorrow and have a look.

Is this more likely than play in crown wheel and pinion then ?

Is there anything to check on the front axle ?
Post #212757 20th Feb 2013 8:19pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4407

United Kingdom 
df1 wrote:
I reckon it's probably about 1/8 of a turn, or maybe a little more, might pull out half shafts tomorrow and have a look.

Is this more likely than play in crown wheel and pinion then ?

Is there anything to check on the front axle ?


When looking to diagnose transmission issues I find it helpful to start with the weak link, in the case of axle play it is nearly always wear in the hub and half shaft splines.

If you chock your front wheels, jack up a rear wheel, pop off the little rubber hub cap and whilst slowly turning the wheel look at the mating of the splines if there is a lot of wheel movement of the wheel before the splines lock up then look to replace the hub.

LR designed the hubs to be the weak link as they are cheap and dead easy to replace, anywhere, problem with that is that they wear over time... So it is unlikely to be the crown wheel. Usually when the crown wheel is worn or not set up correctly it whines like a banshee.
Post #212763 20th Feb 2013 8:36pm
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df1



Member Since: 06 Aug 2011
Location: Ireland
Posts: 221

Cheers for the info, will try that out tomorrow.
Post #212797 20th Feb 2013 9:39pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1728

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
I have had the rear end 'clunk' reappear, have swapped drive flanges twice before, but now thinking the shafts are worn as well - just bough a set of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221185931905?ssP...1497.l2649

Bargain!

Keith
Post #212803 20th Feb 2013 9:56pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7688

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
as above most likely to be drive member issue, if i was changing these i would prob do the shaft too.

wear on the pinion/crown wheel is unlikely - does it howl?

1/8th turn i would of thought would be ok Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #212807 20th Feb 2013 10:03pm
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df1



Member Since: 06 Aug 2011
Location: Ireland
Posts: 221

No howling, the problem I'm having is controlling it in slow moving traffic, I get a kind of surging or jumping in the drivetrain.

If i accelerate it goes away.
Post #212837 20th Feb 2013 10:41pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4407

United Kingdom 
ickle wrote:
I have had the rear end 'clunk' reappear, have swapped drive flanges twice before, but now thinking the shafts are worn as well - just bough a set of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221185931905?ssP...1497.l2649

Bargain!

Keith


Hi Keith. Other reasons for a rear end clunk are;

1) A-frame ball joint - said to be the main clunk, but rarely actually the problem
2) Mal-fitting brake pads - more common than you think, clunk beautifully and can also rattle too.
3) Trailing arm bolts - These do wear over time where they contact with the axle mounts which is why if you change the bushes it is a good idea whilst you are there to spend the extra couple of £s replacing the bolts and nuts (grease them up good and proper too)
4) Hubs - as said earlier
5) Propshaft UJ - These need greasing regularly and can go PDQ especially if you have a suspension lift
6) Transfer brake shoes - If the retaining springs break.

All are pretty easy to check out.
Post #212844 20th Feb 2013 10:52pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1728

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
Thanks Geo,

I've had a prybar around the rear ball joint, no play there. I swapped all bushes for the decent quality blue polyurethane ones about a year ago, all bolts etc were ok & copper slipped on re assembly, swapped all shocks to Koni heavy tracks whilst under there.

Props OK, greased every 6 months or so, not lifted & doesn't see much abuse.

Not checked pads though, but it does feel like drive line shunt & when I swapped the rear flanges this time last year, it improved for a bit, I'm assuming that the wear on the half shaft starts a bit of wear in the new flange and the rattle gets bigger!

Much appreciated input though, if it warms up I might even swap the new Ebay take off parts across at the weekend and report back.

Keith
Post #212866 20th Feb 2013 11:43pm
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df1



Member Since: 06 Aug 2011
Location: Ireland
Posts: 221

Just a bit of an update.

I removed the rubber cover on the half shaft hub, there's considerable play in the splines here.

Ordered up a set today.

Thanks for all the help, certainly saved me a lot of time tracing the play.

This will be the first part (apart from routine servicing) ive had to replace on my defender, not bad going for 7 years and 165k kms ! Had good look round underneath today, very little wear, I'd say even the original brake pads should reach 200k kms no problem.
Post #213018 21st Feb 2013 8:16pm
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