 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Gear change noises ! |
 
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| o4dn Member Since: 08 Jan 2010 Location: South West Posts: 598   
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Hehe, „They all do that Sir!“ - That's the million Dollar question, it could be any of those components you listed, or most likely a combination of all of them. You can also add the A-frame bushes and A-frame ball joint, or the drive flange, etc. The drive play accumulates at each level.
I don't think there is any such thing as „lifetime lubrication“ (well, of course, they'd have to define „lifetime“, cuz once the gearbox is shot, it's lifetime has ended!  ).
I think it's a good idea to change the oil anyway, it's easy enough and won't hurt. That will give you the pace of mind, if anything.  “A Land Rover immobilized is a moral defeat for the driver and bad publicity for the vehicle, […] it's up to you to do justice to your Land Rover!” - Land Rover Driving Technique.
-- 2009 2.4 Puma Defender 90 SW 1979 Land Rover Series 3 88" Last edited by o4dn on 9th Oct 2025 9:15am. Edited 1 time in total |
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9th Oct 2025 8:18am |
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| Mdm Member Since: 11 Sep 2013 Location: Sunny Lancashire Posts: 1678 
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i understand that sealed for life means for the life of the warranty and then its someone elses problem.....
its cheap to change at 2.2 ltrs but not the easiest to get back without a pump type bottle. its not uncommon to see it overfilled as well. measure what comes out and let us know. |
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9th Oct 2025 8:42am |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 3472
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l will get a pump, l had one for my Defender TD5 but it leaked everywhere and l chucked it away (the pump not the Defender, although that leaked everywhere as well)
Castrol Syntrans 75w/90 okay for the gearbox? l've got some from when l had my BMW Z3 3.0 |
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9th Oct 2025 10:50am |
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| Mdm Member Since: 11 Sep 2013 Location: Sunny Lancashire Posts: 1678
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For a Land Rover Defender Puma (TDCI) gearbox (MT82), the recommended oil is a fully synthetic 75W90 API GL4 with specific Ford approvals, such as the Castrol BOT 328 or equivalent.
i think this is the lr oil part number im sure lots of oil brands make something taht will work and isnt gl5 spec TYK500010 |
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9th Oct 2025 12:08pm |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 157  
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I am still not sure what you mean by clashing noise? Can you explain further? Does the noise come from the box or somewhere else?
Regarding your last question, for me the absolute hardest part of changing the gearbox oil was to decide what oil to put in. I don’t know how much I read about that before I finally settled on one. Once I decided I seem to have purged my brain of all background information and will in the future only go back to what I bought then so I can’t answer your question. I used: Castrol Transmax Manual Multivehicle 75W-90 So far it’s only been an improvement over what was in there before. When cold there is some crunching going from 1st to 2nd if I am in a hurry, but once warm it’s all good. |
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9th Oct 2025 12:08pm |
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| Cragster69 Member Since: 15 Jun 2021 Location: Scotland Posts: 254  
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Also worth checking the lubrication at the bottom of the gearstick
Below this there are two plastic cages/sockets and the lack of grease in them can make the gear changes sound bad, when it's not actually gear teeth clashing. I found this video helpful when I did mine, just make sure you get the bottom cage out, and fit it to the ball when mating it back to the gearbox. It makes it worse if you don't. Craig. “Don't believe everything you read on the internet.” ― Abraham Lincoln www.scotgrc.co.uk |
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9th Oct 2025 12:10pm |
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| o4dn Member Since: 08 Jan 2010 Location: South West Posts: 598
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In doubt, I'd recommend you check that thread (sticky in the Puma section of the forum): https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic8707.html “A Land Rover immobilized is a moral defeat for the driver and bad publicity for the vehicle, […] it's up to you to do justice to your Land Rover!” - Land Rover Driving Technique. -- 2009 2.4 Puma Defender 90 SW 1979 Land Rover Series 3 88" |
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9th Oct 2025 1:38pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 3472
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The clashing noise comes from the clutch area by the sound of it. lt doesn't happen if you come on and off the gas while driving along, only if you are changing gear.
l've replaced the rear drive members. l am going to assume that the next job would be a new clutch. The actual gear change action is pretty good, although it's hard to get a clean change from first into second gear without the clashing sound. l've been starting off in second which is easier to do. l'll change the gearbox oil anyway and see if it's any better. |
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9th Oct 2025 2:27pm |
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| o4dn Member Since: 08 Jan 2010 Location: South West Posts: 598
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FWIW, mine is exactly the same, and it's on its original clutch (it's a MY09 2.4 with roughly 75 thou miles) “A Land Rover immobilized is a moral defeat for the driver and bad publicity for the vehicle, […] it's up to you to do justice to your Land Rover!” - Land Rover Driving Technique.
-- 2009 2.4 Puma Defender 90 SW 1979 Land Rover Series 3 88" |
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9th Oct 2025 2:40pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 18006 
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Does the clutch exhibit the well-known 'death rattle'?
With the engine running, gearbox in neutral, clutch in, open the driver's door (to hear better) and then switch off the engine. Listen for a short metallic rattle as the engine stops. If you hear one, it suggests that the springs in the clutch driven plate have a permanent set and are loose, and it is an early warning sign of the driven plate loosing its springs, usually with dire consequences. It is incredibly hard to diagnose noises from descriptions alone, and I am not sure whether you are describing a clutch noise or a gearbox noise. It is possible that the gearbox has worn or damaged baulk rings on second gear, or has insufficient, incorrect, or excess lubricant, and any of these can make the first-second gearchange challenging. Similarly on a Puma a worn clutch, a clutch with 'death rattle' symptoms, or aggregated backlash in the transmission can make it very hard to drive and change gear smoothly. When working properly and with a good driveline and clutch, the MT82 is a good gearbox and should be a pleasure to drive - certainly it should be a better driving experience than the awful clunky and baulky R380 of old. |
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9th Oct 2025 2:56pm |
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| jbcollier Member Since: 29 Apr 2024 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 277  
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Just a couple of comments:
Filling the gearbox requires having a way of pumping in an exact amount of oil. The fill plug is located high on the transmission case. You should NOT fill until it dribbles out. That will put in too much oil. I use a pump like this: https://a.co/d/5VyQZbq On shifting, this is a truck, not a sports car. As you shift up, you have to either pause while the engine speed falls, or, double clutch. If you rush your shifts, you can get “clashing”, especially on the first to second shift when cold. What happens is that when you “clear” the synchro as you shift, if the engine speed is still falling rapidly, the gear is no longer “held” by the synchro and is free to rotate again. This means the gear goes out-of-sync and “clashes”. It is worse when cold as internal friction is higher due to the cold oil. |
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9th Oct 2025 5:43pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 3472
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comments:
Filling the gearbox requires having a way of pumping in an exact amount of oil. The fill plug is located high on the transmission case. You should NOT fill until it dribbles out. That will put in too much oil. I use a pump like this: https://a.co/d/5VyQZbq Thank you! That's the one l just ordered, just by chance. |
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9th Oct 2025 6:45pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 21005
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Ideal time to put in magnetic filler & drain plugs too, a little bit of Hylomar blue on threads.
Torque to spec and only fill with 2.2L and not had a leak since. As was mentioned use the appropriate pump to fill up with the loop filler on the tube end. Also take out filler first, and fit filler last. ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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9th Oct 2025 9:40pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8461  
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i'd change the driveline oils as a matter of course. i do that with any vehicle that comes new to me. you have a bench mark to start from then.
clutch, i wouldn't change it as a matter of course unless it has the death rattle as described above. its unlikley to part of the shunting in a driveline when used correctly. there will be a degree of learning the vehicle and a balance of working through driveline components to take out slack. does the noise come on taking up drive (ie stationary before actual point of moving off) try is by 1st and rev alt selections in which case it will be most likley be bushes or dm wear. quite often a clicking too. or is the noise when under motion and then on or off load, this would lead to anything that rotates. ie diffs, gboxes, props. Cheers James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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10th Oct 2025 8:49am |
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