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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 423

Key Fob and immobiliser issue!
Can anyone advise on this scenerio, I have a 2014 Defender which a bought a number of months ago. There is a list of jobs to do which I will be starting soon!

It started and drove with a damaged fob with the seller.

I have removed the battery and recharged it, refitted it and tried to de immobilise with the fob and new battery and it appears not connect to the vehicle.

Here is a photo with what I believe to be the correct set up to unlock - bottom 3 buttons and lock top 2 buttons.



Click image to enlarge
Post #1074132 27th Aug 2025 10:37am
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Johan_B



Member Since: 20 Sep 2024
Location: Gothenburg
Posts: 140

Sweden 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green
There is a procedure to re-sync the fob with the vehicle after the battery has been renewed.
Post #1074172 27th Aug 2025 7:55pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2497

United Kingdom 
With the doors shut click the lock button 4 or 5 times in quick succession, then click the unlock button once. This should then unlock the vehicle and sync the fob.
Post #1074189 27th Aug 2025 9:38pm
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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 423

Thanks, I have tried this and didn’t work. Any ideas please
Post #1074256 28th Aug 2025 2:08pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2497

United Kingdom 
I’m assuming you have central door locking and it was working before.

Normally disconnecting the main starter battery does not cause an issue with loosing fob sync or needing the fob to be re registered with the 10AS. However if the fob is not working and won’t resync then the next job is to re register it to the 10AS or ALM unit. Speaking of which, what year is your defender as from circa 2012 the unit moved from the 10AS to the ALM CHxxxxx unit and the latter has a low starter battery brownout issue.

Do you have a Nanocom Diagnostic tool ?
Post #1074360 30th Aug 2025 12:03pm
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macfrank



Member Since: 05 Nov 2015
Location: somewhere in the north
Posts: 1125

Germany 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
I don‘t quite understand. That fob on the photo is not original. Also you should have received two sets of key and fob.
Also door locking and immobiliser are two different systems, integrated in the same housing/fob/ALM.
Post #1074364 30th Aug 2025 1:48pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2497

United Kingdom 
Hi macfrank I think the OP bought the vehicle used and was only provided with what he has shown.

And yes, well spotted, I did not really look but that’s not anything like the insides of a Lucas fob, and I’m pretty sure it’s not the insides of the Lear fob with the chrome strip that was used on the last defenders or as a replacement system for a faulty unit in the last couple of production years.

Roche1800, can you check what alarm unit you have, if genuine it will be fitted behind the drivers side front footwell speaker, removal of speaker provides access to it .
Post #1074392 30th Aug 2025 7:07pm
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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 423

IanH, thanks for the posts. The vehicle was registered in March 2014. The fob is later type therefore not the horizontal 2 button, the fob is 2 vertical buttons with a silver piece running from top to bottom.

I bought the Defender and it worked when the seller started it and then drove it. Now after some time it seems the fob isn't recognised. LR want huge amount in my opinion and there is no guarantee.

So either the fob has disconnected itself or its maybe broken....

I would like to think I have common sense!
Post #1074553 2nd Sep 2025 9:59am
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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 423

And sadly I don't have a Nanocom.
Post #1074554 2nd Sep 2025 10:01am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2497

United Kingdom 
Ahh ok, it’s the Lear fob then, part number LR087665 .
Your alarm ECU will be the black ALM unit with a DHxxxxxxx serial number. This unit has a separate radio component for central locking communication with fob.

Talking to Blackbox solutions they state that the Nanocom can program fobs to the ALM CHxxxxx and DHXXXXX units, however when I pressed them on this they advised they had only tested and validated this on the ALM CHxxxxx unit, which is a different device from a different manufacturer. Not withstanding this they still said the Nanocom should be able to program the fobs with the chrome strip.

So you have the option to see if a member local to you with a Nanocom is happy to assist, noting i believe it will need to have a software version later than 1.35.

Or you could go to a local independent to see if they will do it at a reasonable price. In this case it may be wise to purchase a new fob at circa £150 and have that programmed to the ALM unit at the same time.

Of course it could be the ALM unit but I believe it’s pretty reliable so unlikely, and Ive assumed you have checked all the fuses associated with the ALM unit


Ps. I’ve been looking at online images of the fob, it only has two buttons yet your circuit board shows 5. I wonder if it’s a generic board used in fobs with up to 5 buttons and programmed accordingly for different functions for other vehicles I.e lock , unlock, lights, boot and hazard .

If that’s the case then for it’s use in your defender only two of the buttons are used on one side of the fob, an upper to lock the lower to unlock. In your picture you show two of the buttons as lock and 3 as unlock. My interpretation is you have the lock and unlock correct but it’s only the left lock and left unlock ( below the left lock ) button that should be used. Are they just the ones you are pressing ?
Just wanted to check.
Post #1074588 2nd Sep 2025 2:12pm
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DSC-off



Member Since: 16 Oct 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 1492

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
This is the 5 button circuit board in my original 2 button fob (below). The 2 used button switches are visibly worn.
It's entirely possible that roche's board came from one of the original fobs for the vehicle.
It will fit inside a 5 button case from a Discovery etc, but the unlock marking is in the wrong place.


Click image to enlarge
Post #1074589 2nd Sep 2025 2:35pm
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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 423

Thanks for the posts and yes its a Lear fob, this is the pic


Click image to enlarge



... which DSC-off you have confirmed.

I have a reputable locksmith nearby who has done barrel repairs and cut keys in the past AND they can carry out a test on the fob.

Perhaps its best I provide an update following my visit.

Its just the main dealer is soo flipping expensive after you have paid for a a fob (circa £150) which then needs syncing/programming (circa £180) which is more than the fob!

Ianh, thank you
Post #1074591 2nd Sep 2025 3:23pm
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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 423

Turns out the remote (the green part in the pics) is not working.

So it has to be a new fob (with silver piece and 2 vertical buttons) which I have which needs programming to the vehicle.

Main dealer needs vehicle , explained the Defender won’t start so it’s chicken and egg…….
Post #1074662 3rd Sep 2025 4:28pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2497

United Kingdom 
Put out a request for assistance from someone local with a Puma licensed Nanocom. Programming a new fob is pretty simple and you will save £180. If I was close I would do it for you and im sure others close by on the forum are of similar mindset.
Post #1074663 3rd Sep 2025 4:35pm
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roche1800



Member Since: 07 Apr 2020
Location: derbyshire
Posts: 423

Ianh, thank you. Where are you out of interest?

How much is a Nanocom?

Is there anyone near Uttoxeter or Ashbourne who could help me please?
Post #1074704 4th Sep 2025 8:37am
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