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lightning

Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 3340

Warped brake discs

So l have had the symptoms of warped brake discs for ages, pulsating brake pedal when slowing from higher speeds and a similar feel to the vehicle as it slows down.

My question is, which brake discs are most likely to have warped. l've got a spare front set and was hoping it was the front! They seem easy enough to change unlike my old Defender where you have to remove the wheel hub and bearings.

15th Aug 2025 4:07pm

LandyMax

Member Since: 10 Jan 2024
Location: Worcester
Posts: 18

I had the same symptoms on my first Defender and Disco 5, in both instances new front brake discs resolved the issue.

15th Aug 2025 4:25pm

keith

Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 2277

I also have had the brake pedal pulse back and was told that the discs were prone to warping. Replaced the calipers with new stainless pistons and that fixed the problem. I did have a thought that the pulsing may have been a stuck piston and it was.

15th Aug 2025 5:06pm

lightning

Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 3340

Okay thanks l will change the front discs and check the calipers at the same time.

Then if the fault remains, at least l will know what it isn't.

15th Aug 2025 5:48pm

lightning

Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 3340

l replaced the discs this afternoon and the fault seems to have disappeared so it must have been the front.

A bit of advice if you plan to change the discs/pads

The two bolts holding the caliper are very tight and you'll need an 18" breaker bar to get them off. The small allen head bolt holding the disc on is made of cheese and if you try to use an allen key on it, the head will strip.

What you need to do is centre punch the edge and tap it loose. Then you can use an allen key on it.

The brake caliper is very heavy and it goes without saying that you must not let it hang on the flexible brake hose. l used a bungee cord to hold it out of the way. Have it ready for when you take the bolts out.

16th Aug 2025 7:54pm

The_75th

Member Since: 28 Apr 2023
Location: Devon
Posts: 35

Just to jump on this - warped discs aren't really a thing. It's a term often bounded around by luddite mechanics.

It's also a way that garages can blame the user for overheating brakes to get out of any warranty claims.

What you have experienced is pad material transfer, usually because the pads, when new, weren't bedded in correctly.

https://www.brakes-shop.com/brakepedia/gen...ing-system

One used to get a little leaflet with a set of brake pads, explaining the bedding in process. But that has gone the same way as the still critical "running in" oil change at 2K.

General brake pad bedding in guide:
https://www.dcperformance.co.uk/pages/ebcbeddinginprocess.html

19th Aug 2025 12:28pm

Can_glu

Member Since: 18 Feb 2024
Location: Toronto
Posts: 12

lightning wrote:
l replaced the discs this afternoon and the fault seems to have disappeared so it must have been the front.

A bit of advice if you plan to change the discs/pads

The two bolts holding the caliper are very tight and you'll need an 18" breaker bar to get them off. The small allen head bolt holding the disc on is made of cheese and if you try to use an allen key on it, the head will strip.

What you need to do is centre punch the edge and tap it loose. Then you can use an allen key on it.

The brake caliper is very heavy and it goes without saying that you must not let it hang on the flexible brake hose. l used a bungee cord to hold it out of the way. Have it ready for when you take the bolts out.

Your experience is of great value to our DIYers. Could you please give a bit more details on how you got these bolts off?

Thanks from Canada

20th Aug 2025 10:10am

lightning

Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 3340

The_75th wrote:
Just to jump on this - warped discs aren't really a thing. It's a term often bounded around by luddite mechanics.

It's also a way that garages can blame the user for overheating brakes to get out of any warranty claims.

What you have experienced is pad material transfer, usually because the pads, when new, weren't bedded in correctly.

https://www.brakes-shop.com/brakepedia/gen...ing-system

One used to get a little leaflet with a set of brake pads, explaining the bedding in process. But that has gone the same way as the still critical "running in" oil change at 2K.

General brake pad bedding in guide:
https://www.dcperformance.co.uk/pages/ebcbeddinginprocess.html

That's very informative, l definitely didn't follow this procedure when l bought the vehicle, l just drove it normally.

20th Aug 2025 5:19pm

lightning

Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 3340

"Your experience is of great value to our DIYers. Could you please give a bit more details on how you got these bolts off?

Thanks from Canada"

I just used a socket (21mm) with an 18" socket wrench (generally referred to as a "breaker bar" in the U.K.)
to initially loosen the bolts and then was able to use a standard ratchet wrench to fully remove them.

20th Aug 2025 5:24pm

mse

Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5117

2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey

Can_glu wrote:
lightning wrote:
l replaced the discs this afternoon and the fault seems to have disappeared so it must have been the front.

A bit of advice if you plan to change the discs/pads

The two bolts holding the caliper are very tight and you'll need an 18" breaker bar to get them off. The small allen head bolt holding the disc on is made of cheese and if you try to use an allen key on it, the head will strip.

What you need to do is centre punch the edge and tap it loose. Then you can use an allen key on it.

The brake caliper is very heavy and it goes without saying that you must not let it hang on the flexible brake hose. l used a bungee cord to hold it out of the way. Have it ready for when you take the bolts out.

Your experience is of great value to our DIYers. Could you please give a bit more details on how you got these bolts off?

Thanks from Canada

No way my big breaker bars on stands would touch it, maybe if I was underneath o a lift. But my 1000 impact after 5 minutes got them off,
As mention the retaining screws were never going, one bit sheared and the other rounded…I punched them, dealer had the bolts on the shelf, very common so just have it all ready Mike

30th Aug 2025 6:20pm

lightning

Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 3340

Breaker bar shifted the bolts but only with my full weight on it....difficult to do as it only just fitted under the wheel arch and then had to keep
moving it slightly to enable more movement of the bolts.

EDIT my mistake.....24" breaker bar.

Click image to enlarge

30th Aug 2025 6:23pm

mse

Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5117

I had one of those, couldn’t get the scaffold pole on it…but then it was only on stands and I think 3.5yrs old.

But work smarter, I got my big impact on the 4 of them

Mike

30th Aug 2025 6:37pm

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