 | Home > Technical > Rear door not locking/unlocking with remote FOB |
 
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5971  
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It will be the wires that go from the post across to the door
Pull rubber boot back and give the wires a good pull. You’ll soon find it. |
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30th Jun 2025 6:01am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8320  
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As above the standard wires that run to the door lock fracture over.time. it's worth replacing the whole length of wire that runs from pillar to door frame. If you just put in a small length wire with two joiners or soldered it will break again soon. Cheers
James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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30th Jun 2025 3:04pm |
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| big110 Member Since: 02 Nov 2016 Location: Pinner Posts: 374 
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Thanks gents. before I head out and get in over my head, is there a common spot they detach? i.e. should i be prepared to take the doorcard off etc to remedy?
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1st Jul 2025 7:53pm |
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| BrickBox Member Since: 05 Oct 2021 Location: Wales Posts: 1003 
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Doorcard is just the 4 screws on the big handlebar and then the doorcard just pulls off. 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
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1st Jul 2025 8:36pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5971
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Just repaired mine in the gap between door and post.
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1st Jul 2025 8:43pm |
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| big110 Member Since: 02 Nov 2016 Location: Pinner Posts: 374
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really? what about the window winder? I tried once to get that off and I gave up LOL |
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1st Jul 2025 8:55pm |
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| BrickBox Member Since: 05 Oct 2021 Location: Wales Posts: 1003
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My mistake- I read rear door as the back door. Not 2nd row door. Apologies. 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
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1st Jul 2025 9:17pm |
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| big110 Member Since: 02 Nov 2016 Location: Pinner Posts: 374
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sorry about that! my bad. This is the rear passenger door.
Same process though? |
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1st Jul 2025 9:39pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 385  
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The door handle is held on with two screws, the door handle trim is one screw and the window winder can be tricky. There is a little clip that holds the winder on the spline, you need to create a gap between the window winder and the door card, then with a thin screwdriver push the legs of the clip away from the winder, you can also use a dentist's pick to pull the clip up and away. Then the winder will come off. Lastly the trim round the door lock button. I place a broad, flat tool (I use trim pliers as they work nicely but a wide screwdriver or paint scraper will do) at 90 degrees to the door card at the base of the trim piece, then give the tool a firm upward blow with my hand to dislodge it. You can now carefully take off the door card, it is held around the perimeter with plastic clips, a trim removal plier is useful here because the clips like to break. Then you should be able to expose the inner workings of the rear door, give the window lift mechanism a good clean and relube while you're in there.
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2nd Jul 2025 9:14am |
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| big110 Member Since: 02 Nov 2016 Location: Pinner Posts: 374
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as suspected, pulling the boot from the pillar and lightly pulling in the wires from the connector....the orange one was broken. I will have to pull the door and make the repair. Thank you!
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2nd Jul 2025 8:10pm |
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| big110 Member Since: 02 Nov 2016 Location: Pinner Posts: 374
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For those of you coming to read this at a later date, I was able to repair this very quickly.
1. remove door card. DID NOT BREAK A SINGLE FIR TREE EITHER using the trim removal pliers ($7.00 on amazon) 2. Indeed when I pulled the boot away from the B pillar, I could immediately tell the orange wire was loose...and by removing the boot at the door too, I could access the break. There is a connector hidden in the B pillar beyond the boot that can be unclipped FYI 3. I chose to reenforce the whole run of wire with two new wires from the B Pillar all the way to the fixing point in the door. I used what I had around, which is slightly larger Guage and is jacketed so I think will take the bending a bit better 4. Gave a squirt of white lith lube to the window winder inside 5. tested and worked a charm 6. door locks as it should! |
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9th Jul 2025 2:57pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 385
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Thanks for the update and well done in resolving your problem. If you have electric front windows you now know where to look when one of them suddenly stops working! I seem to repair the front door looms on a regular basis.
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9th Jul 2025 3:12pm |
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| big110 Member Since: 02 Nov 2016 Location: Pinner Posts: 374
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This was my rear right hand door on my 110 SW but I assume the same process to access wires for front locks/windows. The wires look like 20 or 22g wire from the factory its no surprise they break in half after a few hundred bends!
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9th Jul 2025 3:21pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 385
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Yes, I meant the rubber trunking from the bulkhead to the front doors when referencing the electric window issues.
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9th Jul 2025 3:23pm |
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