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300TDi CSW Phil



Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Bracknell
Posts: 759

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
New doors for the old girl
I am getting close to pushing the button on 4 new doors for the 300TDI CSW.

But.....

What paint or rather make of paint should I use?

Previous attempts at touch ups etc using colour matched paint from a car paint specialist (with a similar name) and a rush job done with Halfords finest (read however you wish) have obviously had mixed results.

This time doing all four doors I want to make the process as straightforward and uniform as possible.

All recommendations etc gratefully received. 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper.
Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home
M0XQS
Post #1069216 6th Jun 2025 8:42pm
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MarkBrown



Member Since: 03 Oct 2022
Location: Mid Wales
Posts: 540

Wales 1983 Defender 110 Other HT Auto Keswick Green
Whatever you do with the paint, make sure you buy galvanised doors, unless you want to do it all again in twelve months! 1983 110 automatic OM606
Post #1069219 6th Jun 2025 10:22pm
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300TDi CSW Phil



Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Bracknell
Posts: 759

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
The plan is for galvanised frames with ally skins as they were originally. I've not been overly impressed with zintec finishes on things in the past and as long as the aluminium and galvanised parts are bonded properly they should last quite well. 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper.
Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home
M0XQS
Post #1069221 6th Jun 2025 10:29pm
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julian



Member Since: 17 Feb 2017
Location: Devon
Posts: 174

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Epoxy primer (others will say etch, but we live in the future now...) and then either a single stage 2k top, or, if you've got one of those glossy trucks, base and clear.

Some would say you should use mordant before the primer. I spray alloy for work all the time with lechler, and the datasheet of that certainly says it's good for fresh zinc without mordant.

I've recently followed the datasheet for a door frame that I've just got hot dipped, but it's too early to conclude either way as to if mordant would have been a good idea or not.

The primary reason I didn't use it is that I didn't want acids / fluids in the box section. I mean I know it will get wet in use but at the moment I didn't want to risk residual acid.
Post #1069223 7th Jun 2025 12:57am
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landiedave



Member Since: 14 Mar 2013
Location: Welsh Marches
Posts: 59

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
where are you getting your doors from, sadly I'm in need....
Post #1069232 7th Jun 2025 9:38am
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julian



Member Since: 17 Feb 2017
Location: Devon
Posts: 174

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
Personally, im repairing my existing ones, and then getting them dipped -



Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge


The tunnel and the peddle box were just blasted, but i ran electrolysis (bottom of a cut down IBC) on the frame before dipping to remove as much of the junk inside the box section as possible.

Ive got another 5 or so to do, hence wanting a "method" rather than a credit card bill! : )
Post #1069233 7th Jun 2025 9:46am
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300TDi CSW Phil



Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Bracknell
Posts: 759

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
landiedave wrote:
where are you getting your doors from, sadly I'm in need....


Almost certainly SP4x4 as they seem to be the best bet and generally more recommended than others. 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper.
Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home
M0XQS
Post #1069392 10th Jun 2025 8:50am
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300TDi CSW Phil



Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Bracknell
Posts: 759

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
julian wrote:
Personally, im repairing my existing ones, and then getting them dipped -



Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge


The tunnel and the peddle box were just blasted, but i ran electrolysis (bottom of a cut down IBC) on the frame before dipping to remove as much of the junk inside the box section as possible.

Ive got another 5 or so to do, hence wanting a "method" rather than a credit card bill! : )



I thought about repairs but being 30 years old not sure I like the chances of getting the ally skins off complete and really need them to come off and go back on the same day as I don't have a garage or enclosed space I can leave the old girl with a door missing.

Some of the iron oxide is also not in the best places to weld new bits into either Big Cry 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper.
Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home
M0XQS
Post #1069393 10th Jun 2025 8:53am
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1781

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
julian wrote:
Personally, im repairing my existing ones, and then getting them dipped -


Works great, but last I checked you cant do rust removal on the air where steel used to be Laughing Laughing
Post #1069401 10th Jun 2025 10:27am
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300TDi CSW Phil



Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Bracknell
Posts: 759

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
Or where the previous welds are no longer connected to what they were repairing as there is fresh (moot point in a leaky defender) air. 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper.
Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home
M0XQS
Post #1069402 10th Jun 2025 10:30am
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julian



Member Since: 17 Feb 2017
Location: Devon
Posts: 174

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
miker wrote:
julian wrote:
Personally, im repairing my existing ones, and then getting them dipped -


Works great, but last I checked you cant do rust removal on the air where steel used to be Laughing Laughing


In my photo, the entire bottom rail of the frame was air, as well as some way up the sides.

Further air was present in other areas.


Door frame was originally welded up out of sections, by a human.
Door frame was subsequently welded up, out of sections, by a human.


But, sure, these things can be fixed with a credit card also.
Post #1069405 10th Jun 2025 10:34am
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300TDi CSW Phil



Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Bracknell
Posts: 759

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
In an ideal world I would repair them but I don't have the facilities in terms of suitable workshop space to keep her while I am working on the doors Big Cry

Someone may end up getting some bargain priced repairable doors after I am done though. 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper.
Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home
M0XQS
Post #1069407 10th Jun 2025 10:40am
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julian



Member Since: 17 Feb 2017
Location: Devon
Posts: 174

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
I wasn't being critical. I just didn't understand the "air" comment as welding old cars is always replacing air with metal.


My work is in non ferrous metal, so I'm slightly better placed for this kind of stuff. And, in truth, if I won the lottery, maybe I'd just buy new!

(But, possibly, I would not, as, without having to earn money, then I would have more time to do what I wanted!)
Post #1069408 10th Jun 2025 10:52am
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