 | Home > Td5 > TD5 Non Runner - Help 🙏 |
 
|
|
|
| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 663   
|
To "just run" the engine, any TD5 ECU will work, but need imobilizer coding (to pair it to 10AS). "Just run" is good only for emergency use, like to get the car out from wood, or move it to workshop, not for longer. It is good to prove, that ECU is the problem.
Top switch fault is probably problem in ECU, but it could be also problem in wires/connectors between ECU and injectors. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo  |
||
7th May 2025 10:07am |
|
| LANDROVER Member Since: 13 Feb 2016 Location: EAST OF ENGLAND Posts: 229 
|
Thank you for your reply.
I was hoping to try another ECU to prove it before sending this off. I did unplug and check injector harness and previously replaced it, I have had no misfire etc. I guess it could be worth putting another on to try. Just hoping to get it running again as need it back running now 😭 |
||
|
7th May 2025 12:53pm |
|
| RallyRaid Member Since: 01 May 2024 Location: Scotland Posts: 4
|
Hello, I have had a similar problem.
I bought a running 2000 110 td5 station wagon as a project (needs a new chassis) and while it is waiting for me to start rebuilding it I start it up and move it about every few weeks. It has always started promptly and run perfectly. Last time I started it easily as usual and left it running for a while to warm, but suddenly it just stopped, and would not restart. I found the main relay fuse had blown and in trying to start it after replacing the fuse I found I then had a problem of main and glow-plug relays clicking repeatedly rapidly, and dash lights looking like a Christmas tree gone mad. In searching for a bad earth or a short I found to my utter shock that the started motor was incredibly loose. I tightened it and found the problem of the repeated rapid relay clicking and crazy dash lights had been sorted. Still, with the characteristic sound of the fueling gurgling and slowly settling, as normal, it would crank with all the dash lights behaving normally, but it would not show any sign of starting. I checked the CPS resistance and wiring right back to the ECU and found they were all good. I cleaned typical Td5 oil creep from the ECU connectors. I replaced relays with new ones. Still, the engine will crank rapidly, with all the usual fueling sounds and dash lights displayed, but there is not even a hint of an attempt to start, like there is no fuel being injected at all. So, does anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem might be? Perhaps an electrical short or earth failure due to the loose starter motor gave the ECU a shock it could not handle, hence the blown fuse and now perhaps the ECU is damaged? Thoughts, people? Thank you. |
||
|
7th May 2025 7:51pm |
|
| LANDROVER Member Since: 13 Feb 2016 Location: EAST OF ENGLAND Posts: 229
|
Any luck RallyRaid with your problem?
I'm still no further forward... I have checked several things and still nothing. I checked injectors and can activate with computer. Fuel pump works and can be done with computer. Fuel at the for as I cracked it open to check No warning light on dash Engine speed reading ok No faults on diagnostic computer other than tachometer? I guess that's for rev counter which I don't have? I keep thinking ECU but I'm not keen to record a borrowed one to try incase I mess it up. So might buy a spare but I'm not convinced it's ECU as it communicates fine and injectors activate using computer. Any other suggestions anyone? |
||
|
18th May 2025 9:06am |
|
| RallyRaid Member Since: 01 May 2024 Location: Scotland Posts: 4
|
I am no further forward, unfortunately.
I am going to send my ECU away for testing. I will report back what is found. Fingers crossed I find it is the ECU, and that the ECU can be repaired. |
||
|
18th May 2025 10:08am |
|
| LANDROVER Member Since: 13 Feb 2016 Location: EAST OF ENGLAND Posts: 229
|
Hopefully you find the issue.
It's strange I can communicate with everything but I think like you the problem is ECU related. I'm tempted to buy another ECU to try if I can manage to copy data across. Let me know how it goes for you. |
||
|
18th May 2025 6:14pm |
|
| daingeanrob Member Since: 21 Dec 2014 Location: sligo Posts: 32  
|
have you fully ruled out fuel pump, had similar, ruled out fuel pump by checking for diesel flow and hearing it, in the end the pump was only working on the low pressure side, it had lost the hp stage. it would crank and start with easy start but wouldnt run
|
||
|
1st Jun 2025 4:55pm |
|
| TD5Ad&Alf Member Since: 06 Jan 2025 Location: Staffordshire Posts: 17  
|
I had the exact same issue with my TD5 defender recently, like yours it just died, turn the ignition off and wait 5mins (or until you hear the main relay under the drivers seat click) then it will restart, but once the engine was reved it would die again. I got the same fault code (topside switch failed). I sent the ECU away to ECURepairs at Heanor Derbyshire, they tested it and told me one of the two large capacitors in the ECU had failed (they said a smaller one handles injectors from idle to 2500rpm and the larger on kicks in above this) they repaired it and gave a lifetime warranty and it’s been fine ever since. Maybe the smaller one on yours has failed which stops it from starting??
ECU repairs were great, very quick and simple service and seemed very knowledgeable. |
||
|
1st Jun 2025 7:07pm |
|
| LANDROVER Member Since: 13 Feb 2016 Location: EAST OF ENGLAND Posts: 229
|
I have checked fuel pressure..seems fine. Reading ok on diagnostic live data and at fpr checked by disconnecting pipe to double check pressure. |
||
|
1st Jun 2025 7:22pm |
|
| LANDROVER Member Since: 13 Feb 2016 Location: EAST OF ENGLAND Posts: 229
|
I think this is the issue. I bought another ECU to clone but it appears harder than I thought as the existing data seems encrypted so cannot clone across. Repair may be my best option. Thank you all for your help |
||
|
1st Jun 2025 7:24pm |
|
| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 663
|
Encrypted data is possible to decrypt and than move to another ECU. For test only, you can use any TD5 ECU, just with paired or bypassed/removed IMO in the ECU. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo
|
||
|
3rd Jun 2025 8:10am |
|
| LANDROVER Member Since: 13 Feb 2016 Location: EAST OF ENGLAND Posts: 229
|
Good Morning MadTom,
I bought a NNN000130 ECU. I tried to write my map to it but it wouldn't work because of encryption. I thought even though it's an Auto ECU it would be fine as the clutch sensor is mapped out. I thought it wouldn't work because it was Immobilised. I now realise I could have coded the immo off. I'm not sure what to do really as the replacement ECU would not accept the old data 😞 |
||
|
3rd Jun 2025 8:36am |
|
| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 663
|
For test only, just use the ECU as is, no remap, no injector codes, just pair or disable IMO. This is just to run the car.
NNN000130 is for auto gearbox Discovery - older version hardware, for manual the simillar one is NNN000120. Newer hardware is NNN500020 for Def, NNN5000250 for manual Discovery and NNN500030 for auto Discovery. NNN500020 and NNN500250 have the same hardware. Just uploading map from manual ECU to auto ECU can result in strange effects. Also map from older HW used in newer HW ECU (some nonexistent faults, ...). From my point of view, you need first running car with standard MAP in ECU, and than solving some remap/use of your old map. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo |
||
|
4th Jun 2025 2:24pm |
|
| LANDROVER Member Since: 13 Feb 2016 Location: EAST OF ENGLAND Posts: 229
|
I made a mistake and tried to copy my defender data onto the replacement ECU and it failed so the new ECU is stuck with an upload that does not work How many times can you flash an ECU as it shows a log of each upload? I was thinking of wiping the ECU then as you suggest copy standard NNN000120 hardware onto a clean ECU then delete IMMO to test run? Then code injectors if this works to use as a tempary fix and then I can try and repair original ECU. Is that what you suggest. I'm quite new to editing/uploading to the ECU and worried about doing more harm. Thank you very much for your help with this. |
||
|
4th Jun 2025 3:55pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
