Grenadier wrote:

Hello all,

I am about to bite the bullet and get a delivery from Ashcroft for a 2.2 Clutch replacement kit (plus extra odds and sods as recommended by Def2.net members).

I came across this very informative video and wondered if a DIY clutch re-fit would require this level of effort or if the 'alternative' method (as discussed by them at 2mins) is perfectly doable, for a first timer on a driveway. All the seat, floor panel, wiring loom, exhaust etc removal seems a huge amount. Will do it if necessary, but was just wondering....?



I might be able (at cost) to get access over a weekend to a full garage.

Many thanks in advance.

munch90 wrote:

what do you call a full workshop , ramp 2 or 4 post , transmission jack etc

you forgot the radio and tea making facilities!

small side note. the vidio didnt mention anything about chocking the wheels. a MUST when removing the props.

blackwolf wrote:

You only need to remove the section of floor immediately over the gearbox and the area where the gear levers are. It helps to take the seat box access panel under the cubby out too.

Even if like the guys in the video, you don't have a suitable transmission jack and decide to do it the hard way with an engine crane, you only need to take the centre part of the floor out. It's bonkers to do it as in the video!

Assuming that you've no need to remove the gearbox from under the vehIcle, you don't even need to remove the exhaust, you can move the box back far enough to change the clutch without lowering it.

You will want to split the t-box from the main box to make it easier to handle and to check/lube the output adaptor shaft splines.

It isn't difficult if you know what you're doing and can be done in about 4 hours.

Landy-Novice wrote:

munch90 wrote:

what do you call a full workshop , ramp 2 or 4 post , transmission jack etc

you forgot the radio and tea making facilities!

small side note. the vidio didnt mention anything about chocking the wheels. a MUST when removing the props.

blackwolf wrote:

You only need to remove the section of floor immediately over the gearbox and the area where the gear levers are. It helps to take the seat box access panel under the cubby out too.

Even if like the guys in the video, you don't have a suitable transmission jack and decide to do it the hard way with an engine crane, you only need to take the centre part of the floor out. It's bonkers to do it as in the video!

Assuming that you've no need to remove the gearbox from under the vehIcle, you don't even need to remove the exhaust, you can move the box back far enough to change the clutch without lowering it.

You will want to split the t-box from the main box to make it easier to handle and to check/lube the output adaptor shaft splines.

It isn't difficult if you know what you're doing and can be done in about 4 hours.

blackwolf wrote:

In my personal opinion a crane makes it harder not simpler, but it rather depends on your working conditions and whether you have a suitable transmission jack.

Incidentally can I ask why you are changing from an Ashcroft shaft to a LOF shaft? What advantages do you expect to gain?

Ianh wrote:

I’ve yet to change the clutch on my 2.2 110 CSW. However I’ve recently removed the output shaft and replaced it with a LOF one piece output shaft.

I did this on the drive using a Draper 09021 floor transmission jack.

As long as your drive is solid, i.e concrete, block paving, tarmac etc then the jack will move easy on its wheels and can support up to 200kg.

I found driving the vehicle onto four 2ft (600mm) long , 4inch (100mm) High and 8 inch (200mm) wide sections of timber railway sleeper provided perfect clearance under the vehicle to do the work, that extra 4 inches (100mm) makes all the difference. I could have used my ramps and raised it 8 inches (200mm) but that would have made it harder to reach some of the upper bolts from underneath. Note I’m on 255/85 16 MTs so vehicle already has an additional 1inch (25mm) ground clearance.

To remove the Transfer box I also created some guide studs by cutting the heads off 180mm M10 HT bolts, grinding a taper on the cut ends , then cutting a slot in the cut end so a flat screwdriver can be used to screw the guide stud into the gearbox extension housing ( once existing bolts removed) to enable the LT230 to Slide off the adapter shaft without damaging the seal. They are even more useful when refitting the LT230 as they align everything and still provide room to rotate the adapter shaft by hand so shaft splines can align with TT230.

I did all this with the LT230 sitting nicely on the transmission jack.

I’m pretty certain that the transmission jack will support the gearbox perfectly to remove that as well, especially if disconnected from the LT230.

So doing all from underneath, with just the under cubby centre panel removed to aid acces to top bolts, linkages and electrical connectors should be fine for a clutch and output shaft change.

One thing to note on the 2.2. The front exhaust pipe will need moving to the side to do the clutch, this can be done but is very awkward. Some say it needs to be completed removed, necessitating engine mount disconnection and engine jacking. However there is a topic on here where that front pipe section was just moved to the side once disconnected from turbo and bracket bolts removed.
Note, this is needed for the 2.2’s with DPF, for RoW I.e Australian spec 2.2 without the DPF, i believe it still needs moving to side but it’s a lot easier.


Ps a BOA aluminium strap wrench comes in very handy to hold the one piece shaft while applying torque to the long bolt. I jammed it against my knee while doing so to stop the shaft rotating. Alternatively you can slide a length of pipe ( half a jack lever) over the BOA handle and jam it against the ground.

andy63 wrote:

I think the jack ian referes to is like the one in the attached photo..
If it is the other little tip that will help when it comes to the main box removal and refitting is to put a hole in the bed to allow the protrusion on the main box to locate and sit steady on the bed of the jack...



Click image to enlarge

That’s the one Andy, it’s a generic jack from China, in the UK it’s badged by Sealey if red and Draper if Blue. No doubt it will be badged by another supplier in Australia . If you do a good search on Chinese auction sites you will likely get it at a very good price.

I like the adapter cradle you made to support the odd shaped LT230.
And the notch to support the MT82 gearbox. As an alternative to the hole you can use some timber packing to keep the MT82 level