DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - DIY Clutch Replacement 2.2

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > DIY Clutch Replacement 2.2

Page 2 of 3

Print this entire topic ·

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17850

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Greyham wrote:
... I’ve had a substantial oil leak develop from the output shaft area. I won’t actually know the Ashcroft (installed approx 100 000km) has failed till I inspect; however speaking to a few shops and specialists here in Aus, sounds like it’s becoming more prevalent. So really I just want it there incase it’s a failed Ashcroft. Second to that, the clutch (same install) has also developed a rattle and slipped whilst towing recently, so I have to do that anyway.

Do you know which version of the Ashcroft kit you have fitted at present? There were some leakage issues with the early versions I believe (quote from this thread):

ashtrans wrote:
Hi,

I am happy to be open about this, there have been 3 designs,

1) silver cup, we used a normal LT230 input oil seal, we had leaks as both parts were static, the seal is designed for one part to be rotating,

2) Blue cup, the inner diameter of the cup was machined to clear the ground diameter on the inner coupling shaft and sealed with 2 O rings, we had some fail and when we investigated why we found the ID of the collar diameter had been fouling the inner shaft on half the diameter, ie the shaft was being held to the side of the cup due to misalignment from accumulated error / tolerances.

3) Red cup, same as above but with more clearance on the ID and much bigger O rings,

This later design works much better, we rarely have an issue when fitted correctly.

You will struggle to correct the misalignment, I dont like the idea of holding it solid, that may load the MT82 bearings excessively or cause the bolt to fatigue.

I draw your attention to the highlighted last sentence from Dave, I view which I feel is pertinent.

28th May 2025 4:33pm

andy63

Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 785

Ianh wrote:
andy63 wrote:
I think the jack ian referes to is like the one in the attached photo..
If it is the other little tip that will help when it comes to the main box removal and refitting is to put a hole in the bed to allow the protrusion on the main box to locate and sit steady

Click image to enlarge

That’s the one Andy, it’s a generic jack from China, in the UK it’s badged by Sealey if red and Draper if Blue. No doubt it will be badged by another supplier in Australia . If you do a good search on Chinese auction sites you will likely get it at a very good price.

I like the adapter cradle you made to support the odd shaped LT230.
And the notch to support the MT82 gearbox. As an alternative to the hole you can use some timber packing to keep the MT82 level

Timber would do nicely but my hole serves two purposed..
It also allows me to bolt that adapter for the transfare box to the jack using a little spreader plate on the underside.. the adapter wasn't as good as I had thought.. it needs another fitting that allows the transfare box to be bolted into it in the correct alignment.. which I intend to sort ..as it is the box moves around in the cradle as its quite narrow..

Initially I was going to bolt the main box to the jack as that protrusion on the box is threaded anyway..but the box sits nicely and is well balanced without that fixing..

28th May 2025 5:16pm

Greyham

Member Since: 08 Sep 2022
Location: Victoria
Posts: 10

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Sumatra Black

blackwolf wrote:
Greyham wrote:
... I’ve had a substantial oil leak develop from the output shaft area. I won’t actually know the Ashcroft (installed approx 100 000km) has failed till I inspect; however speaking to a few shops and specialists here in Aus, sounds like it’s becoming more prevalent. So really I just want it there incase it’s a failed Ashcroft. Second to that, the clutch (same install) has also developed a rattle and slipped whilst towing recently, so I have to do that anyway.

Do you know which version of the Ashcroft kit you have fitted at present? There were some leakage issues with the early versions I believe (quote from this thread):

ashtrans wrote:
Hi,

I am happy to be open about this, there have been 3 designs,

1) silver cup, we used a normal LT230 input oil seal, we had leaks as both parts were static, the seal is designed for one part to be rotating,

2) Blue cup, the inner diameter of the cup was machined to clear the ground diameter on the inner coupling shaft and sealed with 2 O rings, we had some fail and when we investigated why we found the ID of the collar diameter had been fouling the inner shaft on half the diameter, ie the shaft was being held to the side of the cup due to misalignment from accumulated error / tolerances.

3) Red cup, same as above but with more clearance on the ID and much bigger O rings,

This later design works much better, we rarely have an issue when fitted correctly.

You will struggle to correct the misalignment, I dont like the idea of holding it solid, that may load the MT82 bearings excessively or cause the bolt to fatigue.

I draw your attention to the highlighted last sentence from Dave, I view which I feel is pertinent.

Thanks for that. I stumbled upon that thread last night too!
I wonder anyone with one piece designs… such as LOF have experienced issues? I know there’s at least one workshop here in Aus that have a machine shop do their own one piece too.

I don’t know which one is installed unfortunately. The work was carried out by an independent specialist back in approx 2019. November leaks up in till this one which has progressively got worse over the last6 months or so. I’ll be checking the original invoice to see if it’s annotated any where, and I’ll report back any findings into this thread.

28th May 2025 10:51pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20910

I would for sure follow Dave’s advice mentioned above, bolt failures due to fatigue can cause a lot of damage like that, so any risk is best avoided for sure.

It happens in an instant, nothing you can do about it, but can cause lot of damage and expense, all due to a part that costs next to nothing.
Even worse is, in a certain circumstances, could be dangerous as someone on the road could drive into you if you had a sudden loss of drive as an example. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___
____\We|Will|Win/___
____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____
_//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_

28th May 2025 11:25pm

Esben Kold

Member Since: 14 Oct 2023
Location: Horsens
Posts: 40

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Galway Green

Greyham wrote:
blackwolf wrote:
Greyham wrote:
... I’ve had a substantial oil leak develop from the output shaft area. I won’t actually know the Ashcroft (installed approx 100 000km) has failed till I inspect; however speaking to a few shops and specialists here in Aus, sounds like it’s becoming more prevalent. So really I just want it there incase it’s a failed Ashcroft. Second to that, the clutch (same install) has also developed a rattle and slipped whilst towing recently, so I have to do that anyway.

Do you know which version of the Ashcroft kit you have fitted at present? There were some leakage issues with the early versions I believe (quote from this thread):

ashtrans wrote:
Hi,

I am happy to be open about this, there have been 3 designs,

1) silver cup, we used a normal LT230 input oil seal, we had leaks as both parts were static, the seal is designed for one part to be rotating,

2) Blue cup, the inner diameter of the cup was machined to clear the ground diameter on the inner coupling shaft and sealed with 2 O rings, we had some fail and when we investigated why we found the ID of the collar diameter had been fouling the inner shaft on half the diameter, ie the shaft was being held to the side of the cup due to misalignment from accumulated error / tolerances.

3) Red cup, same as above but with more clearance on the ID and much bigger O rings,

This later design works much better, we rarely have an issue when fitted correctly.

You will struggle to correct the misalignment, I dont like the idea of holding it solid, that may load the MT82 bearings excessively or cause the bolt to fatigue.

I draw your attention to the highlighted last sentence from Dave, I view which I feel is pertinent.

Thanks for that. I stumbled upon that thread last night too!
I wonder anyone with one piece designs… such as LOF have experienced issues? I know there’s at least one workshop here in Aus that have a machine shop do their own one piece too.

I don’t know which one is installed unfortunately. The work was carried out by an independent specialist back in approx 2019. November leaks up in till this one which has progressively got worse over the last6 months or so. I’ll be checking the original invoice to see if it’s annotated any where, and I’ll report back any findings into this thread.

Hi, I’ve had the LOF shaft in my truck the last 20000 km’s without issues. My original had excessive wear and was clonking. I did a clutch change as well and did as Blackwolf described, but with a crane through the door. Only because I didn’t have a transmission jack. It was a very comfortable way of doing it and can be done alone.

29th May 2025 8:48am

Greyham

Member Since: 08 Sep 2022
Location: Victoria
Posts: 10

Might also be the preferred way for me to go. Save the back and all that.

Did you only remove the centre console panel and gear surround tunnel?

29th May 2025 9:47am

Esben Kold

Member Since: 14 Oct 2023
Location: Horsens
Posts: 40

I removed the cubby thing and the plate underneath it. The seats were also removed just to have more space. I took the transfer case off first. I just bench pressed it, but I think you should be certain that you can handle it, since it is substantial. The gearbox was hoisted down from inside the cabin and it was like it was made to be removed and installed that way. Very easy.
You could probably remove them while attached to each other but it is not problematic to remove or install the t-box so I would do it the same way, if I were to do it again.

29th May 2025 9:55am

andy63

Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 785

I removed them as a pair with a crane and personally wouldn't be doing that again..to try and install them that way would also be a challenge.. and more so if you are on your own..
The balance point is just not in the right place and you are constantly fighting to keep it lined up..
Yes if you are young and fit just lifting the transfare into place is doable..I've watched my son do it... but for most of us older types it's not a sensible option..
The transmission jack is the way to go IMHO..
The only issue with that is getting the boxes mounted on the jack and getting the clearance to get them under the vehicle as a pair and not trying to put the box on the jack once under the truck..
With tha help of alignment studs as already mentioned it's then reasonably straight fwd for both boxes as long as you have made enough space for yourself..and becomes more attainable on your own.. you are still hopping from cab to underneath, but if you can manage that all should be good..

29th May 2025 11:45am

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2421

As I stated earlier, I dove onto 4inch high sleepers and with the 255/85 16 MT’s my vehicle already has 1 inch more ground clearance. So with 5 inch (125mm) extra ground clearance you can get the lt230 out from under the vehicle while still at it’s odd angle and attached to the transmission jack I used.
I’m therefore 99% certain you can get the MT82 gearbox out from under the vehicle while still on the transmission jack if you have that extra 5 inch (125mm) ground clearance.

Tip. When installing the LT230, once the adapter shaft is properly engaged with the LT230, the LT230 can still catch on the rearmost (offside - KQB500550) gearbox mounting bracket, preventing the LT230 from moving the last circa 50mm to mate with the adapter housing. This can happen even when using alignment studs. The way to fix this is , With the LT230 still resting on the transmission jack, to remove the uppermost alignment stud and replace with a fully threaded M10 x 100mm bolt and gently tighten it up. (Note - You should not feel any resistance, if it’s hard to tighten stop and investigate way, else you can break something. ) This will tilt the LT230 to the correct angle, allow the LT230 to slide on top of the bracket ( instead of catching on it ) and also allow the adapter housing studs to protrude through the LT230 casing , the nuts to be applied and tightened and the adapter housing and LT230 case to mate.
Note if you have a longer fully threaded M10 bolt, or the 100mm bolt is too long, you can fit a nut and fully wind it up to the bolt head, then fit the bolt to the correct depth in the adapter housing, then hold the bolt head in place with a spanner while rotating the nut clockwise with a ratchet spanner. This will pull the adapter housing and LT230 together.

29th May 2025 1:22pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17850

Whenever I've done mine I have ended up jacking the vehicle on one side (hilift under the rock slider) to get the gearbox or transfer box out from underneath whilst still on the transmission jack. I did consider putting the vehicle on blocks as suggested by Ianh but in the end haven't, since I find it is easier to reach the bits I need to get to with it slightly lower (and it isn't hard to raise the vehicle if you need to get either box out from underneath).

There are two genuine special tools available that make the job easier, but due to their ridiculous price most people improvise their own. One is a wedge-shaped thing that bolts to four of the LT230 bottom cover=plate studs and provides a flat horizontal jacking surface (and can also be bolted to the jack) and the other is the set of alignment studs, mentioned in an earlier post. It is certainly worth making something to substitute for both these, the plate will reduce the risk of dropping the LT230 on a squishy part of your anatomy, the studs will lessen but not eliminate the risk of damaging the LT230 input seal.

I would always recommend splitting the LT230 from the MT82 on a TDCi since not only is it very easy to do, but it also makes handling the units easier and allows you to check and grease the output adaptor shaft.

29th May 2025 3:21pm

andy63

Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 785

Whilst on the subject of special tools the last time i looked at the price of a puller for the spigot bearing i had mild palpations 🤣 but it's usually a pain as well compared to the old types bushes..

29th May 2025 4:34pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2421

Even from LOF that Sykes Picavant tool is £138 !!!

SP make high quality tools, and if I’m going to use frequently I will go with a SP tool every time.

However for once or twice use you can get a “Good enough” tool from a well known auction site for £19-£30 , just search for blind bearing puller and see the results.

29th May 2025 7:16pm

Def90

Member Since: 17 Jan 2015
Location: Kent
Posts: 264

2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey

Hi

I replaced my clutch & the bearing about a year ago and used one of these.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233539319588

Much to my surprise it worked a treat!

Click image to enlarge

29th May 2025 7:52pm

andy63

Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 785

Cheers Ian..
I did get a set of blind bearing pullers after I did the job because as you say for the money they seemed worth a punt if they were ever needed again.. not sure about size and fit but it claimed to do a fair range of sizes using the supplied bits..
But I'm not sure how they would cope with the spigot bearing..ie how the genuine article may differ..
I do remember the bearing been a real challenge..in the end I smashed the back of it out and got behind it with a little adapter I made up for the slide hammer..and it took a lot of force to get it out.. and a new one in for that matter..
Ive since seen vids of folk using a bolt and spacer with a nut as a puller to do the same thing as I did with the slide hammer after breaking the back of the bearing cage out..
Always a way, but the right gear can make life so much easier👍

29th May 2025 7:59pm

andy63

Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 785

Ahhh i see a picture has been posted of a tool that looks identical to the bits in the set i got, so that's good news, cause they are a fraction of the cost a specific tool..
Good to know..
Thanks for that..👍

29th May 2025 8:03pm

Page 2 of 3

All times are GMT + 1 Hour

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum