DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Should I remove the MT82 gearbox on my driveway…? [Updated

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Should I remove the MT82 gearbox on my driveway…? [Updated

Page 2 of 2

Print this entire topic ·

andy63

Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 239

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 CSW Aintree Green

blackwolf wrote:
Dinnu wrote:
... When I had to remove my transfer box, was single handed so made a bracket to go with my simple trolley jack such as the one on this site: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defe...mount.html ...

There is a special tool for this, but since it's around £150 the home-made option is appealing. The tool is 100-045 SUPPORT BRACKET - TRANSFER BOX. This is the support I mentioned in my post above, and I've known people achieve the same result with wood.

Dinnu wrote:
... I always remove the handbrake assembly before removing a transfer case.

From what I remember you have no option, there is insufficient clearance (at least on a 110) between the transfer box and the crossmember behind it to leave the handbrake on. It only takes a few minutes to remove it anyway.

andy63 wrote:
... removing the transfer box input gears until it's in place can save a load hassle trying to line up the splines in the gears

Alternatively engage the CDL before fitting the t-box and turn either the rear or front output flange to align the splines, saving unnecessary dismantling.

Hi BW.. I'm aware of the option you mentioned. And I'll try and explain why I choose to remove the gears when I fit or for that matter remove the transfare box..
Its not difficult and doesn't take long..

Its not just a case of getting the splines lined up.. The bore is a very close fit on the splines and the shaft has to engage the splines over a few inches.. The box has to be perfectly aligned axially for it to slide on or it can bind up and stick /jam on the shaft if the alignment isn't spot on.. In my first attempt that was made worse by having the transfare box rigidly mounted on a trolly jack fitting and the whole assembly of box and jack was not moving easily on the surface I was working on.. So getting it aligned not so easy...
With the gears out you still have to be careful not to damage the oil seal but you have a lot more scope for getting it on if your alignment isn't spot on..and as with the gearbox a piece of studding helps locate it..
That's what I experienced anyway and rather embarrassingly I've damaged a gearbox output shaft getting the transfare box hung up on removal..🙈😩... Tried to tidy it up but ended up replacing the shaft
as the gears would no longer slide easily over the splines.. An expensive little mistake caused by trying to force it when it had jammed up.. So now I just remove the gesrs👍😁

Click image to enlarge

22nd Mar 2024 5:59pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16880

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Andy, I'm not poo-pooing your method, just suggesting an alternative. It is extremely useful to use guide pins when refitting the transfer box, since these virtually eliminate misalignment problems and just leave the (rotational) spline alignment to be dealt with.

The genuine alignment stud set is (as usual) shockingly expensive at £47 +VAT from the official supplier or £73 + VAT from Dingocroft (that's a hefty mark-up!) but easy enough to make.

https://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Guid...1_009.html

I find guide pins and a wiggle works for me, other may not in which case your idea is great.

22nd Mar 2024 6:15pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3210

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

blackwolf wrote:

Dinnu wrote:
... I always remove the handbrake assembly before removing a transfer case.

From what I remember you have no option, there is insufficient clearance (at least on a 110) between the transfer box and the crossmember behind it to leave the handbrake on. It only takes a few minutes to remove it anyway.

On a 90 there is sufficient space, next cross member being the A frame member (even though it is 17” closer to the TC compared to a 110). But for sure, with or without handbrake assy, the exhaust center section needs to come out if working on a 90.

Did replace a transfer box on the side of the road, somewhere in Italy, and that was done without taking off the handbrake drum. Simply because I wanted to do it in the shortest time possible, so I thought less nuts and bolts to remove and put back = shorter time to replace. And was wet and freezing, so towards the end I could not even get the nuts started from numb fingers 🥶 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

23rd Mar 2024 3:34am

Fatbaron

Member Since: 12 Mar 2016
Location: Devon
Posts: 297

I managed mine on my own, very easy getting it out. Getting it in was slighty more difficult but again, managed it on my own.

24th Mar 2024 8:45am

carrotbay

Member Since: 18 Aug 2013
Location: Northants, UK
Posts: 695

2008 Defender 110 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel XS CSW Auto Santorini Black

I didn’t think it was possible on my own but it was okay. I’d used a local garage for clutch and box work thinking it was too much to do at home. But with a bit of time and the right (ish) tools it was okay. Dropped the transfer box off the back using an engine lift and strap through the panel below the cubby.

It was more fun getting the M57, auto box and transfer box back in one unit by myself, especially when I hit the gravel on the drive with lift.

Click image to enlarge

25th Mar 2024 10:51am

Page 2 of 2

All times are GMT + 1 Hour

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum