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Kevlar



Member Since: 28 Oct 2020
Location: Prague
Posts: 78

Czech Republic 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
How many thermostats
Hi All

Does anyone know how many thermostats there are in a 2.4 puma ?
I have replaced the main one next to the fan shroud PEM100990LR (Only one mentioned in the Haynes manual)

I also see you can buy an EGR Cooler thermostat LR004618 (Where does this go ? ) https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/thermostat-de...22880.html

and

Oil Cooler thermostat LR004557LR (This one I located on the oil cooler but mine had been removed, should it have a thermostat on the cooler ?)
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/engine-cooler...-7591.html

Has any one had any experience with this ?

Thanks

Kev
Post #864044 28th Oct 2020 4:46pm
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Chuchi_EL Drac



Member Since: 21 Aug 2014
Location: Valladolid
Posts: 15

Spain 
Hello,
After reading your information, I have checked what is the correct oil cooler Thermostat and their opening temperature.
I have found that:

LR004557 to VIN 7A748007 (75ºC) 2.4 tdci
LR005894 from VIN 7A748008 2.4 tdci (TºC?)

and LR029936 2.2 tdci but I can see that also could be used for 2.4 tdci (TºC?)

But I have a question. My 110-Defender is VIN AA... (2010 year) 2.4 tdci. At the beginning of the year the engine failed (hole on 3rd piston) and was changed by a new one 2.4 tdci in an official Land Rover dealer. The oil filter of the old engine has a cap to be remove with 32 socket and cartridge inside but the oil filter of the new engine is like 2.2 tdci modell. Wich oil cooler thermostat I have?

Could the oil cooler thermostat affect the engine operating temperature because the differents references LR005894, LR029936?
Post #864108 28th Oct 2020 10:01pm
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Kevlar



Member Since: 28 Oct 2020
Location: Prague
Posts: 78

Czech Republic 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
Thanks for info Chuchi

I found out that the EGR cooler thermostat is optional and not fitted on all Defenders.

As for yours, I don't think the Oli cooler thermo will effect the running temp, more the warm up temp.
Once the oil warms up the thermostat will open and help maintain the oil temperature.

As mine had no oil cooler thermostat the oil was being cooled by the system constantly
Post #864245 29th Oct 2020 3:00pm
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
For the Water side

1. PEM100990 88°C - 96°C HARD SPRING (the Puma thermostat from the assembly line) too much hot engine IMHO

2. PEL500110 82°C - 89°C SOFT SPRING not good for mountains climate

3. PEM101020 82°C - 89°C HARD SPRING (best choice expecially here in Italy) Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

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Last edited by dgardel on 30th Oct 2020 2:50pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #864422 30th Oct 2020 2:46pm
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
Re: How many thermostats
Kevlar wrote:
............

Oil Cooler thermostat LR004557LR (This one I located on the oil cooler but mine had been removed, should it have a thermostat on the cooler ?)
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/engine-cooler...-7591.html
.............


Installed only on the very early Pumas, from 2008 it was no longer installed by LR . Absolutely redundant (it is the temperature of the water that drives) and induced too many oil pressure drops. Indeed, if installed it is better to remove it. Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

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Post #864425 30th Oct 2020 2:50pm
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Kevlar



Member Since: 28 Oct 2020
Location: Prague
Posts: 78

Czech Republic 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
Ok Thanks

I just ordered new one but mainly because of the O ring seal needed replacing.
I may well remove the actual thermostat from the plastic housing.
Post #864431 30th Oct 2020 3:13pm
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Naf



Member Since: 07 Dec 2016
Location: Sandbox
Posts: 412

Kuwait 2000 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Nato Green No Canopy
dgardel wrote:
For the Water side

1. PEM100990 88°C - 96°C HARD SPRING (the Puma thermostat from the assembly line) too much hot engine IMHO

2. PEL500110 82°C - 89°C SOFT SPRING not good for mountains climate

3. PEM101020 82°C - 89°C HARD SPRING (best choice especially here in Italy)


Whats the difference between hard and soft springs? Can't leave well enough alone
Post #864749 1st Nov 2020 12:29pm
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
dgardel wrote:
For the Water side

1. PEM100990 88°C - 96°C HARD SPRING (the Puma thermostat from the assembly line) too much hot engine IMHO

2. PEL500110 82°C - 89°C SOFT SPRING not good for mountains climate

3. PEM101020 82°C - 89°C HARD SPRING (best choice expecially here in Italy)


Hi Daniele,
I have the PEL500110 soft spring, live at 850 meters altitude. Can confirm it works a treat also here. Even in winter cooling water warms up as fast (meaning slow) as it did with the factory installed thermostat. No difference in warmup time between those two really. I should have lower engine running temps though which especially is good in hot summers. Never have had an overheating issue, that’s for sure.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #864758 1st Nov 2020 1:37pm
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Naf



Member Since: 07 Dec 2016
Location: Sandbox
Posts: 412

Kuwait 2000 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Nato Green No Canopy
Just googled the PEM101020/1, its a medium rated spring with a opening temp of 87c.

Went through several sites before mentioning it here. Possibly a happy medium between stock of 92 and cold of 82.

Its hot here eight months of the yr, so I went with the soft spring and 33/67 coolant/water mix. I do not see any temps lower than -10 so it will not freeze.

Just be wary of the options, and do your coolant mixes properly. Can't leave well enough alone
Post #864948 2nd Nov 2020 12:20pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Daniele and Eric, would either of you be able to explain what we’re talking about here? As with Eric, I live at 850m, work at 1100m, regularly travel to 1500-2000m, winter and summer. I regularly drive up and down long, winding, steep roads, some 10-15kms long, even more. My engine always runs well, and at correct temps as far as I’m aware. I’ll be fitting a new, larger intercooler soon, plus the BAS RRC 165bhp, and the modified air intake used by DeeEss or similar. Should I be looking at a new thermo? If so, which one and why? Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #865141 3rd Nov 2020 7:34am
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
The hard spring should ensure faster engine heating because it limits the passage to the radiator than the soft spring,

The soft spring is more suitable for very hot climates, letting a greater share of water pass through the radiator during heating (thermostat still closed).

The hard spring is standard in Russian area.

The soft spring PEL500110 with lower opening temperature, IMHO, is the best choice for our Puma engines. Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

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Post #865205 3rd Nov 2020 1:57pm
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Agree with Daniele. In my opinion it is more important to lower risk of overheating in summer at heavy engine loads than having slower warm up (which I do not notice). Slower warmup just means you can opt to drive a bit more careful without high rpm etc. until engine gets to normal working temps, you control that. Overheating may come with little notice other than the temp gauge suddenly jumping to max with all the associated risk of damage. The PEL500110 will reduce the risk of the latter happening. So happy I had that one installed. On which occasion my dealer also replaced the coolant fluid by fresh, also not a bad thing occasionally.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #865233 3rd Nov 2020 4:45pm
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Naf



Member Since: 07 Dec 2016
Location: Sandbox
Posts: 412

Kuwait 2000 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Nato Green No Canopy
I read a lot of talk of the stat but very lil chat about the actual radiator.

The stat is only part of the equation. There is the waterpump, hoses, radiator and coolers.

If you are truly havin issues with overtemp in 30c ambient temps, look to the radiator and waterpump.

I just swapped my flebay sloppy alloy radiator for a fresh allisport version. Lets see if it makes a difference.

Warmup is warm up, the springs still hold it shut, but depending on the rated temp it will open. Soft at 82c medium at 87c and hard at 92c...

There is no it takes longer, its a stat it will open sooner and the temp gauge on all defenders is an inaccurate display of the temp. Might as well be a cold hot display. Even my gm is wonkie. I have a 74c stat and it displays about a 90c on the dosplay, but the ecu is displayin 70c. Can't leave well enough alone
Post #865236 3rd Nov 2020 5:06pm
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
Yes NAF

but I'm speaking about the Puma and my experience with more than dozen of Defender 2.4 and 2.2 with fuel cutting down problems when towing in summer.

Unfortunately, due to problems related to the reduction of pollutants, they make the engine work "hot", too much in my opinion.

With the "fresh" thermostat, even in daily use, without particular effort, the engine always runs "better". Very evident in summer.

Remember that the thermostat modulates within a range of temperatures (a band). With the "fresh" one I lower this whole band by about 10 ° C (tested). It maintains the temperature by continuously mixing the hot liquid with the cold one (three-way valve).


Click image to enlarge
 Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

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Post #865240 3rd Nov 2020 5:10pm
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Naf



Member Since: 07 Dec 2016
Location: Sandbox
Posts: 412

Kuwait 2000 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Nato Green No Canopy
Agreed, the emissions is why they keep them hot.

Droppin the stat will keep the temps lower but you also need to change the radiator to take full benefit of the lower stat, as more coolant will be flowin through the stock one. And volume is your friend. The stat helps slow the coolant so it may cool. The stock setup may work with the 92c stat and 87 stat, but will struggle with the 82c stat. Can't leave well enough alone
Post #865255 3rd Nov 2020 6:22pm
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