 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Stainless security screws/bolts! Advice on is it worth it? |
 
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| PCM Member Since: 25 Jan 2019 Location: North East Posts: 862  
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Hi All
After noticing a bit of rust from various screws and bolts about the car I'm looking to replace with stainless. As an option I was wondering if it's worth while adding stainless security bolts where available. Question would be, is the security part it worth it? I know Nakatanenga do a stainless set for the 110 for about £110 and have read that you can add a ball bearing into the recess. Is this suitable? What size and what do you glue them in with that looks ok? Defender upgrades do a set of door security hinge bolts for £30 but I'm assuming any thief would have the correct tool. Same as snake eye bolts. the bits are only a few quid to buy. I'm also looking at replacing the screws on the bonnet wing vents with m4 stainless bolts and nylocs. What about security bolts/screws on the headlights, grills etc.. To replace the bolts on the door hinges etc.. do you just remove and replace 1 at a time and hope they have captive nuts? Do any have normal nuts that fall off? Anyone done any of the above. Added stainless security screws etc.. Anyone used another method they would recommend? Lots of questions. about a very basic thing. Sorry Cheers PCM |
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30th Jan 2019 2:15am |
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| PCM Member Since: 25 Jan 2019 Location: North East Posts: 862
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Morning Sulisuli
Totally. Running a night shift, so have had the last 7 hours scouring every inch of the forum and half of google. Found quite a bit in heavy security threads and bonnet threads, but nothing really concise so thought I'd ask. Sorry if it's offended you. |
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30th Jan 2019 7:53am |
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| Sulisuli Member Since: 30 Oct 2016 Location: South west Posts: 4791 
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Hasn’t offended at all, in fairness when I was a newbie I didn’t realise the search button was there, some topics get covered in large detail, a lot are personal preference,
Stainless steel bolts is quite an emotive subject The kit you mention from 4 x 4 overlander Brendan aka forum sponsor Leeds is very good. Hope you get the answers  2015 HT XS 90
2008 SVX 90 2000 XS TD5 90 |
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30th Jan 2019 8:17am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5430 
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As with all security, it depends on the owner, and their thoughts on theft. I don’t worry as much as other about it. I’ve swapped some of mine to S/S when I’m working in an area and the original bolts looky nasty, or rusty.
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30th Jan 2019 9:17am |
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| discomog Member Since: 09 May 2015 Location: Notts/Lincs Border Posts: 2496 
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I wouldn't worry too much about security screws as I'm sure most scroats go armed with security bits and sockets in their swag bag. I've used nyloc locknuts for things such as wing vents and headlight surrounds.
Obviously you have more chance of having your doors and bonnet stolen if it's parked outside overnight. As a newby you may want to concentrate on levels of security rather than fitting stainless fittings initially. Defender 90XS SW Mini Countryman Cooper S Morgan Plus 8 |
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30th Jan 2019 9:34am |
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| PCM Member Since: 25 Jan 2019 Location: North East Posts: 862
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Already on it.
First purchase is an optimill quick release (hopefully with a startech wheel on group buy here) and a few bits as advised by Will at Landroverdefendersecurity. However as the bolts and bits will need replacing as they are corroding, I wondered if there is a preferred option for a more secure bolt. |
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30th Jan 2019 10:43am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5430
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If replacing I’d go with quality over security of the stainless steel fittings. There is more than one grade of s/s and some stuff is shocking.
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30th Jan 2019 11:04am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16946 
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If you do want to use security fasteners then go for one of the high-end, specialised suppliers with custom heads and coded bits. The common "security screws" with pin Torx heads are not even vaguely secure.
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30th Jan 2019 11:32am |
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| PCM Member Since: 25 Jan 2019 Location: North East Posts: 862
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Agreed. I was looking for some coded bits already on https://www.fastenright.com
I'll look on the forum for a list of all the bolts needed for the relevant areas and see what I need to order and if this is possible. I'm sure on the forum somewhere there must be a list of all the bolt/screw sizes. Does anyone have any info on how good the ball bearing in the bolt idea is? Do they look OK or a bit of a bodge. Feel free to PM me if you're worried about broadcasting your security. |
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30th Jan 2019 12:45pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2290 
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Hello PCM
I bought a full SS Kit from 4X4 Overlander (Brendon) for my 90, this kit aims to replace every main non-SS Screw and Bolt not only for the Doors (main reason for purchase) but also other bit and pieces as well. Doors All Bolts can be removed (from the side doors) as they have Captive Nuts, the rear door is a mix from memory of both Captive and Loose so requires the rear cover panels to be removed to gain access. Part of my job required replacing one of these Captive Nuts that had fractured and fallen down into the A Pillar (Bulk Head) I managed to retrieve the part with my grab tool and in the process decided to swap out all the Captive M8 Nuts with the 'new and improved' version (Black ones) which are claimed to be tougher and do have a slightly longer thread section. A bit of advice for anyone doing this...don't but them from LR as they charge mad money IMO, exactly the same (yes exactly) can be bought for 20% of the cost from an Independent. I replaced all 'Clip in' Captive Nuts, all Bolts to SS and then 'Head Secured' these SS Bolts with SS Ball Bearings (from memory) I used 1/8' 3.175mm Ball Bearings from cycle spares I had, then used magic metal to fix in situ, then hand painted the finished heads with (in my case) body colour Stornoway Grey. IMO Definitely worth doing. Up to individuals as to how many SS Bolts are head protected with a Ball Bearings but typically I have seen one 'Pillar side' and one 'Door side' on each hinge treated in this way...or just do the lot. Ball bearing fix prior to painting (etch primer and top coat)  Click image to enlarge Park broken captive nut Click image to enlarge Grab tool to retrieve broken part... (I got lucky) Click image to enlarge What the standard set up should look like Click image to enlarge OEM Captive Nuts
My route...£1 each Click image to enlarge Top Click image to enlarge Bottom Click image to enlarge Good Luck SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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30th Jan 2019 12:50pm |
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| PCM Member Since: 25 Jan 2019 Location: North East Posts: 862
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That works for me. I’ll grab a 110 set from Brendon.
Thanks for a really good post. |
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30th Jan 2019 1:04pm |
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| mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2876 |
First mod I have done to the new 110 is the Nakatenaga vast 110 kit from Brendan. It’s great. Andy
2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html |
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31st Jan 2019 7:48am |
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| Landie Member Since: 21 Jun 2015 Location: WA Posts: 22  
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I used a britpart kit. Whenever i take something off my Landie i grab stainless preferably 316 marine grade nuts, bolts and washers from my local hardware shop and use antisieze nickel based grease. My vehicle spends a lot of time on the beach and have no issues with rust. Coat my chassis inside and out with Penetrol once a year and spray it anywhere i can get. 10 years old now and still good. No corrosion issues.
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1st Mar 2019 11:56pm |
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