DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Rear body mounts stuck! Pictures

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear body mounts stuck! Pictures

Page 1 of 2

Print this entire topic ·

MarcusM

Member Since: 29 Jan 2020
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 101

Rear body mounts stuck! Pictures

Hi all- using this unusual time of being locked at home to work on the defender and make the move to stainless with the nakatanenga kit. Really struggling with the rear body mount Torx screws- managed to shift a few but the others are now stuck half way out- tried everything from blowtorch to WD40 in the threads but no luck. Managed to remove a couple and switch them to stainless as you can see but the others aren’t going anywhere.

Also regarding the rear hinges mine have started to fade a little but not sure if I should repaint them or changes them- they don’t seem to have rusted yet!

I’m really new to working on cars in general so any advice on the best thing to do would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Click image to enlarge

29th Mar 2020 12:23pm

90 Dreamer

Member Since: 13 Jul 2019
Location: Oop North
Posts: 2054

2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey

A better penetrating fluid and try winding them in and then back out, repeated times........

29th Mar 2020 12:33pm

MarcusM

Member Since: 29 Jan 2020
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 101

Thanks that’s really helpful- in your experience what’s the best penetrating fluid you have found?

29th Mar 2020 12:49pm

90 Dreamer

Member Since: 13 Jul 2019
Location: Oop North
Posts: 2054

We use Bulldog BDX at work but not sure how easily available it is........
The likes of Plus Gas and sure there are others

29th Mar 2020 12:51pm

MarcusM

Member Since: 29 Jan 2020
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 101

Brilliant thanks

29th Mar 2020 1:02pm

gilarion

Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5084

2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green

For Plus Gas For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1

29th Mar 2020 2:48pm

Bluest

Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3997

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black

I’ve had some good success with WD40 specific penetrating spray. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

29th Mar 2020 3:44pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16879

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Plus Gas for me.

29th Mar 2020 4:02pm

Scotm

Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 640

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey

How about applying copper grease to them before winding them back in and out again?

29th Mar 2020 4:05pm

MarcusM

Member Since: 29 Jan 2020
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 101

Thanks all- will look in to getting some better penetrator and great idea about putting the copper grease in to the thread Scott- will try it and let you know how I get on. So much of the basics to learn!

29th Mar 2020 4:38pm

ARC99

Member Since: 19 Feb 2013
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1831

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Cairns Blue

Marcus.

As a retired mechanical engineer I can only offer the following.

Its the rust/rubbish building up on the treads if you can get a wire brush or an old tooth brush ( if you have an old spare wire brush cut it down to fit) in to remove the build up when you screw them back in then spray them and wind them out until you get some resistance, don't try and force them at this point as you risk causing damage to the threads. Also spray a bit of your release agent on the threads you have screwed out before screwing it back in. Take your time as you may only get one more thread out each time and make sure you seat the Torx sockets square to the bolt to prevent damaging it. Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place,
so it doesn't take much to

us off.

Richard

30th Mar 2020 9:57am

MarcusM

Member Since: 29 Jan 2020
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 101

ARC99 thanks so much for your advice- sounds like a good plan- I think I was trying to rush the whole thing too much but will spend some time working on each one as you say.

30th Mar 2020 1:21pm

Oakseywick

Member Since: 20 Dec 2014
Location: Cirencester
Posts: 1000

I am in the process of doing this as well one left to remove, agree with ARC take your time winding in and out cleaning threads to remove All the crud and plenty of wd40 or the like and you will get them. Rush and you will shear them I know as I did this to the first one and had to drill out and retap the tread. Also isolate the stainless steel washers from the aluminium body work with nylon washers behind them to help prevent dissimilar metal corrosion occurring Andy
Defender 90
Defender 110 XS
Cupra 290

30th Mar 2020 10:09pm

MarcusM

Member Since: 29 Jan 2020
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 101

Thanks for the tips Oakseywick - great time right now to be working on this!

31st Mar 2020 9:15am

Defender SVX

Member Since: 29 Jan 2009
Location: Co Durham
Posts: 726

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SVX Soft Top Santorini Black

Also make sure you use a good quality torx bit it does make a difference

Formerly mao99999
16 Focus RS Nitrous Blue.
11 FFRR TDV8 Vouge SE Black Black.
08 DEFENDER SVX SOFT TOP (SUPERB)
08 DEFENDER 110 DCPU Stornoway grey (Overland Exploration Unit)
05 Fiesta ST 150 Van
04 Jaguar XKR 4.2 Supercharged V8
02 DEFENDER 90 TD5 (next years soft top project)
95 DEFENDER 110 CSW 300 TDi Phoenix black
95 DEFENDER 90 HT Monti Carlo blue COUNTY 300 TDi
67 109" SERIES 2a TUNED 200 TDI
64 DAVID BROWN 990 rat look
55 86" SERIES 1

31st Mar 2020 11:52am

Page 1 of 2

All times are GMT + 1 Hour

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum