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LEZ



Member Since: 22 Oct 2015
Location: London
Posts: 163

United Kingdom 
Lost for Words - Thanks for the heads up on this subject, what you say makes perfect sense (to me anyway) and can save us the unnecessary cost of replacements.
Post #500871 5th Feb 2016 3:05pm
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
I managed to pick up a pair of Chrystal headlamps from Peterborough LRO show last September, the ones with the cones in. As I was walking round I noticed a pair of Chrystals on the Bolt on Bits stand for Ģ30, not a bad price but they didn't look like mine as they had no cones in. At the top of the display there were a set like mine labelled up as SVX lamps for a typical BoB price of Ģ70. Now that's a lot of money for a cone inside the lamp!
Even then mine are different again as they have a pilot light hole in them in which I've put a led sidelight bulb as personally I feel that the original sidelights alone are a tadge woefull and I for one used to quite like the dim dip function.



Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge
Post #500873 5th Feb 2016 3:22pm
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Lost for Words



Member Since: 18 Jun 2015
Location: Warminster, Wiltshire
Posts: 200

LEZ wrote:
Lost for Words - Thanks for the heads up on this subject, what you say makes perfect sense (to me anyway) and can save us the unnecessary cost of replacements.


Thumbs Up Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
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Post #500877 5th Feb 2016 3:39pm
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dantastic



Member Since: 04 May 2010
Location: London
Posts: 367

United Kingdom 
Thanks for the photos - it really helps to see real photos rather than product images.

I have ordered a set of the ones with cone - and a set of stainless rings.
Funny enough - I got the lot from bolt on bits. Turned out cheapest when shipping was considered (As I'm not in the UK).
Post #500885 5th Feb 2016 4:09pm
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dantastic



Member Since: 04 May 2010
Location: London
Posts: 367

United Kingdom 
@Lost for Words, I'm not arguing your figures. But if we perceive a certain light as brighter, is it not brighter then?
Vision is a sense the same way as hearing is. There are frequencies the human ear can't hear and you can obviously measure "sound" some instrument makes and say one instrument is louder than another. But if I can hear one but the other is mostly outside the frequencies I can hear then the exercise is purely academic.

What I'm saying is, humans can't be 'measured' the same way. And if I perceive one light to be brighter than another then why isn't it? Are you saying that I can't see more detail in the "picture" in front of me even though I perceive the light to be brighter?

And if I can't - do I perhaps find it easier to see - even though I mightn't see 'more'?
Post #500886 5th Feb 2016 4:18pm
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
The photo's I have put up aren't the best but the overall look is miles better than the original Quadoptics that were fitted as standard. Mine were allways suffering from condensation and clouding behind the lens, I am so much happier with the Chrystals both in looks and in performance.
As for what I paid for mine, I just happenend to be in the right place at the right time which doesn't happen very often plus the seller didn't realise what they were so had to give him an offer Whistle I didn't think Ģ20 for the pair was too unreasonable Thumbs Up
Post #500889 5th Feb 2016 4:19pm
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Lost for Words



Member Since: 18 Jun 2015
Location: Warminster, Wiltshire
Posts: 200

dantastic wrote:
@Lost for Words, I'm not arguing your figures. But if we perceive a certain light as brighter, is it not brighter then?
Vision is a sense the same way as hearing is. There are frequencies the human ear can't hear and you can obviously measure "sound" some instrument makes and say one instrument is louder than another. But if I can hear one but the other is mostly outside the frequencies I can hear then the exercise is purely academic.

What I'm saying is, humans can't be 'measured' the same way. And if I perceive one light to be brighter than another then why isn't it? Are you saying that I can't see more detail in the "picture" in front of me even though I perceive the light to be brighter?

And if I can't - do I perhaps find it easier to see - even though I mightn't see 'more'?


I do understand; the logic does not present itself in a straight forward manner! There are two factors - 1) the receiptiveness of the human eye to different wavelengths and 2) the mental effect of colour temperature.

The key point I'm making regarding Night Breakers acually entails primarily the latter. In short, the ingrained mentality is that a "whiter" light is brighter, because we can very easily judge colour temperature. Thanks to our eyes adapting so well to differing light conditions, we cannot tell accurately how bright something is without a much larger difference in luminous intensity. The upshot of it is that humans will look at two equally bright sources of light and think that the "whiter" one is brighter even when what you can actually see is the same.

To help visualise, here's a random "HID vs halogen" comparison picture I took from the internet.


Click image to enlarge


Most people would look at that and instinctively say the bottom one is brighter. This is the same picture desaturated:


Click image to enlarge


Now you can see how little there actually is in it (The HID probably is brighter but the camera settings have ironed it out - the human eye does this to an extent also).

There is not only this effect, but also a change in the perception of colour temperature according to light conditions; for example, a 4300K HID bulb will appear white at night, but a bit yellow in daylight. This is because our eyes use not only our pupils, but also rods in our eyes to couteract for changing light levels, and rods are most receptive to blue light. It's called the Kruithof Curve.

Following on from the above, the first factor is another matter also. The human eye uses rods and cones to see light and these are more sensitive at different wavelengths. Mostly, it's cones that are responsible for our daytime colour vision, while rods start to come into play more at night causing our colour vision to degrade somewhat.



Light towards the yellow and red end of the spectrum is best absorbed by cones, and so a warmer light temperature encourages photopic vision and the pupil to constrict allowing better focus. Bluer light is found to be more glaring (another thing that makes people perceive it as brighter) for this reason and it forms the same basis of selective yellow headlights/fog lights. There are also psycological and hormonal effects of a higher colour temperature light that can increase fatigue during lower luminance levels. Manufacturers often use statements like "close to daylight" to suggest that it gives better vision; sounds very logical, but that is not the case.

The example of sound is a very good one, because certain wavelengths and forms of sound are also perceived very differently, and so weightings have been developed to accurately describe sound in human ear terms.

So what I'm saying here, is that we should not treat such "whiter" or "bluer" light with such high regard, because it's not beneficial to human vision. The final note I would add is that more light is not always better - it's the balance of light that allows one to see. Like a set of scales, if you put equal weight on both sides it will be balanced no matter how much weight that is.

I hope this helps clarify a few things. Thumbs Up Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
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Post #500912 5th Feb 2016 5:30pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5084

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
Warm light, white light, blue light, whether enhanced or desaturated using a photo software coupled with the theory behind vision are all very well. However I am only interested in how far the beam from my headlights travels in the dark, and perhaps my eyes or my brain is deceiving me though I doubt that very much, all I have to say since I installed crystals with Nightbreaker's and the red bison loom is that the dark country lanes near where I live are now lit up at night while driving considerably more than they were with the standard Defender set up. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
Post #500929 5th Feb 2016 5:57pm
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Lost for Words



Member Since: 18 Jun 2015
Location: Warminster, Wiltshire
Posts: 200

I am not in any way disputing what you are seeing, but I am saying that 99% of it is down to the lamps not the bulbs. After all, beam pattern allows you to see further, not just a uniform increase in light. Thumbs Up Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
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Post #500934 5th Feb 2016 6:18pm
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dantastic



Member Since: 04 May 2010
Location: London
Posts: 367

United Kingdom 
Interesting read, thanks for that. I still think the whiter light is easier on the eyes and I simply have a preference for the whiter light.
I am however enlightened! Thumbs Up
Post #500955 5th Feb 2016 7:34pm
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Lost for Words



Member Since: 18 Jun 2015
Location: Warminster, Wiltshire
Posts: 200

Psycological preferrences will always enter into it too, and of cousre, I'm not saying Night Breakers would give much worse vision, just that they don't give better so IMO aren't worth the extra money. Thumbs Up

As per gilarion's figures, the colour difference is only around 200-ishK so is very minimal compared to the usual 4300- 6000K HID and LED light (poorer colour rendering with them which is yet another matter... Laughing ). True high-wattage halogen bulbs also burn at a slightly higher colour temperature. Wink Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
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Post #501194 6th Feb 2016 10:59am
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Wild Card 90



Member Since: 03 Dec 2014
Location: Gerlingen
Posts: 1060

England 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Indus Silver
Interesting thread. Thumbs Up

Excellent explanation, LfW. I donīt dispute the raw facts you have presented, but still remember how impressed I was after fitting Nightbreakers. Far more so than when I swapped to LEDīs. Rolling Eyes

I suppose that two other factors played a roll. One is that the swap was made in combination with Crystal reflectors, and the other is that the Nightbreaker/Crystal combination were brand new, replacing two year old bulbs and reflectors. The fine stone chipping on a headlamp glass send light in all directions, reducing itīs performance.

Stephen 1998 Tdi 90 SW,
2008 Td4 90 SW,
2012 2.2 90 SW,
2" raised Trailmaster/Terrafirma
Heavy Track Raids, 255 MTīs,
Recaro CSīs, anorak, wellingtons
Post #501216 6th Feb 2016 12:03pm
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Lost for Words



Member Since: 18 Jun 2015
Location: Warminster, Wiltshire
Posts: 200

Yep, the Crystals will basically have a better and more concentrated beam and that makes all the difference. I used to use and sell the Wipacs many years ago. Thumbs Up Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
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Post #501226 6th Feb 2016 12:23pm
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
Picking up from here:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/post501764.html

I'm still not understanding something. I get that we're talking about a bulb that's producing the same overall light output (measured in lumens). Given that, how can Osram, Philips etc. claim more light output whilst at the same time saying they don't. I mean, I know that this, from Phillips: "up to 130% more brightness"
is a load of marketing speak, but they also say "up to 130% more light on the road". How can they get that much more light on the road if they're the same actual light output? That implies that they're wasting far less. Now if +130% is as good as it gets (NBU being +110%) then we can set that as the benchmark. So if a Philips X-tremeVision is putting 100 Cupboard Light Units on to the road, "normal bulb" is only putting 43CLUs (2.3*43~=100) on to the road. Where are the others going?

We know that the light was there at some point, because the lumens rating tells us so. That is the primary job of the bulb. The whole "getting it on to the road" thing is basically down to the reflector/lens isn't it? If it's possible to go from 43 Cupboard Light Units on to the road to 100CLUs then in the normal bulb 57CLUs are vanishing somewhere. Light can't just vanish, it has to light up or heat up something.

Reading through the Philips blurb, it's not down to the colour temperature because they do all sorts of different colour temperatures at the same lumens output but different "light on the road" figures, and their highest "light on the road" figure comes from a middle colour temperature bulb.

They can't be producing a very selective band of wavelengths either, because according to wikipedia:

Quote:
The lumen (symbol: lm) is the SI derived unit of luminous flux, a measure of the total quantity of visible light emitted by a source. Luminous flux differs from power (radiant flux) in that radiant flux includes all electromagnetic waves emitted, while luminous flux is weighted according to a model of the human eye's sensitivity to various wavelengths.


So however you weight your bulb's output the lumen figure will take that in to account.

What gives? Something's not right somewhere.

Confused

Edit: from Osram:


The only thing I can think is that if there's more going on to the road there's less going in the air. But that's not down to the bulb is it?
Post #501790 7th Feb 2016 7:25pm
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Lost for Words



Member Since: 18 Jun 2015
Location: Warminster, Wiltshire
Posts: 200

Four things:

1) "Up to". It doesn't have to be their average, so they pick the highest observed figures. It can justify no-end of miseading statements and testing practices.

2) There is a very small difference and they measure in a small part of the beam where it is most pronounced and no doubt where they claim the "road" is. There is fractionally more light "on the road" but fractionally less on the hedges etc.

3) Reflector size - a tiny reflector will mean bigger differences. They can choose this without challenge so long as they're still using that term "up to".

4) Specifically affecting H4 bulbs - the cap coating/filter. If you look at a typical "performance" bulb, the cap coating or perhaps a strong filter comes closer to the low beam filament. This means they can increase the efficacy of the low beam filament a little and the cap/filter will block the extra lumens. They then base figures on the low beam when everyone assumes it's the high beam. By doing this, they can provide a slightly (still only very slight) brighter low beam, but that isn't of much use to the user because the cut-off restricts further vision anyway, and a brighter low beam means you can see less beyond it due to the balance of light. The effect is not entirely limited to the low beam either, because they make their bulbs narrower (I bet no-one ever pays the slightest bit of attention to the dimansions) which allows a little more light out at the extreme angle - in most reflectors this is simply lost as spill but you can bet they will choose an unusually deep reflector for their testing...

All these things combine and they manage to scrape their claims through. Thumbs Up Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
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Post #502063 8th Feb 2016 12:10pm
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