konabikes11 wrote:

That's brilliant Blackwolf thank-you

bartsimp wrote:

Hi,

It looks like I have the same issue, i'll be swapping with fog light tomorrow but fuse (n°14) and bulb are both ok.

I could never work it out myself so went to main dealer and they fixed it for free

bartsimp wrote:

Here's what it looks like on the outside


From workshop manual, pages 957 to 960

SteveS wrote:

Having not seen the switch does anyone know if it is mechanically actuated - ie the gearbox pushes a button/closes contacts or whether it is a reed switch/magnetically operated?

blackwolf wrote:

Sorry, no photos. The switch is very well hidden!

The workshop manual for the Puma says that to get to the switch you ned to remove the gear levers and then the floor panel that forms the transmission tunnel, but this looks to me to be a real PITA, especially with carpets in the way.

The - much easier - way I got at mine was to remove the cubby box between the seats, peel back the carpet on the seat box (there are two pieces of carpet on the box, one on the right and one the left, so there is a longitudinal join at the cetnre - very handy) then remove the access panel in the box itself (five screws, then 'break' the sealant to lift the panel out).

The reverse light switch can then be seen (if you stick your head in the hole between the seats) and accessed with a 22mm open-ended spanner. It is located on the top left hand side of the gearbox, perhaps two or three inches forward from the front of the seat box. The switch is clearly visible, and it is the only switch in the vicinty so you can't really mistake it. It still isn't easy to get at, but it is at least possible.

The connector on the switch has one of those press-to-release-a-catch type clips, so squeeze the flat sides together with your fingers before pulling.

Hope this helps.

Following on from Blackwolfs really great info I set about checking why my reversing light was working intermittantly. Here are some pictures of the job which was straight forward although my hands and arms got pretty scratched trying to remove and reinsert the reverse switch. I tested the switch and found it ok so I pushed the ball bearing in and out a good few time to make sure it was free moving. I believe the fault is caused by the switch needing to be tightened fully to ensure the ball is pushed far enough into the switch for it to work. One big tip to do this job is to make sure you have a very short 22 open ended spanner as the access is real tight.

Access to the switch is below the cubby box, the yellow mark indicates where to find the switch underneath the panel.

Click image to enlarge

The cubby removed and the panel beneath is held in by four screws when this is taken out you can see the top of the gearbox. Worth noting a little bit of rust forming at the back of the inspection hatch caused by the metal to metal contact with the hatch lid. This was duely cleaned and prepped prior to closing everything up after doing the switch

Click image to enlarge

Looking towards the front left of the gearbox you can just see the switch.

Click image to enlarge

Removing and inserting the switch was easier sitting in the drivers seat using my left hand to turn it.

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Switch removed

Click image to enlarge

The switch removed was clean and just needed pushing in and out a few times to ensure full movement. Make sure the switch is a firm spanner fit when reinserted so the ball actuator is pushed in fully to operate the switch when reverse is sellected.

Click image to enlarge


I spent a good three hours doing this job, no hurry. At first I found it almost impossible to get my hand in to the space but after a few minutes contorting myself I eventually made progress.

Another job jobed, hope this helps anyone with a dead reversing light find the fault.

Mermoto