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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Tis a puma but as you say I'm not sure that matters?

Sounds like the same problem but making it go away permanently seems impossible....its comes and goes randomly...tried applying the hand brake on the move to varying degrees?
Post #401782 24th Feb 2015 8:32pm
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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
It's been a while since I had the noise. The trembling is still there however. Don't know if it started after the adjusting as it was a busy period (new prop shaft + bend track rod = death wobble: everything was shaking then).

Is it easy to open - am quite a novice on that - to check?


Last edited by zone30 on 2nd Mar 2015 12:33pm. Edited 3 times in total
Post #401787 24th Feb 2015 8:36pm
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
gilarion wrote:
If you are not happy about the effectiveness of your handbrake whatever you do, do not park on a hill unless you also put the vehicle in respective reverse or forward gear. To be honest I always do that anyway, seen to many cars career downhill through a defective hand brake.


Yes, and if it is a bit steep, put transfer box in low first, then leave it in first gear when parked uphull, and in reverse if parked downhill.
And for those who have problems with water ingress in the area between the screenframe and the bulkhead and/or the screen hinges, it is better to park nose down when it rains. With the specific design of the Defender this gives less chances of water ingress than when parking (steep) uphill when it rains Thumbs Up
By the way, I cannot find the thread anymore, but there has been a discussion on here quite some time ago that even on relatively mild slopes putting the Defender in gear alone without the handbrake will still allow the truck to slowly roll down, defeating the engine compression and all.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #401788 24th Feb 2015 8:36pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
If you look at the bottom of the brake shoes is the difference in pad length opposite? If so isn't it just for rotational direction?
Post #401791 24th Feb 2015 8:37pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Very Happy let's just say if I can take apart it can't be difficult.
Post #401796 24th Feb 2015 8:52pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
ericvv wrote:
gilarion wrote:
If you are not happy about the effectiveness of your handbrake whatever you do, do not park on a hill unless you also put the vehicle in respective reverse or forward gear. To be honest I always do that anyway, seen to many cars career downhill through a defective hand brake.


Yes, and if it is a bit steep, put transfer box in low first, then leave it in first gear when parked uphull, and in reverse if parked downhill.
And for those who have problems with water ingress in the area between the screenframe and the bulkhead and/or the screen hinges, it is better to park nose down when it rains. With the specific design of the Defender this gives less chances of water ingress than when parking (steep) uphill when it rains Thumbs Up
By the way, I cannot find the thread anymore, but there has been a discussion on here quite some time ago that even on relatively mild slopes putting the Defender in gear alone without the handbrake will still allow the truck to slowly roll down, defeating the engine compression and all.
Eric


reading your post i think you mean , when parked say front pointing downhill you would leave in reverse , or or front putting uphill you would leave in first gear , so either way the engine would have to turn backwards

if thats the case i would not recommend that at all , for one there is no difference in compression AND the main one is that some diesel pump shouldn't be turned backwards and there is maybe a chance of timing chain jumping as your pulling on the opposite side to the chain adjuster
as timing chain wears the slack is all up by adjuster on one side so in effect you could pull the slack back round

could it happen , dont really know , but small possibility maybe

yes car will still roll slowly if leave in gear without handbrake as compression will be lost place the rings slowly allowing engine to turn
Post #401807 24th Feb 2015 9:09pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5084

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
Jeez! I think it best then to never park on a hill. To be honest I never really trust handbrakes or parking brakes, as none of them have a failsafe feature and especially with the tonnage of a Land Rover just relying on a notch and cable system and two brake shoes griping a a metal ring. It might be called a transmission brake but it is only as strong as its weakest point and ther are many of those. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
Post #401999 25th Feb 2015 2:24pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
I wouldnt worry about being parked on a hill and leaving in gear , but just wouldnt want the engine to turn backwards , i always do leave in gear if parked on a hill

if parked facing down 1st gear or first low
if parked facing up r gear or r low
Post #402140 25th Feb 2015 8:37pm
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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
zone30 wrote:
It's been a while since I had the noise. The trembling is still there however. Don't know if it started after the adjusting as it was a busy period (new prop shaft + bend track rod = death wobble: everything was shaking then).

Is it easy to open - am quite a novice on that - to check?


It kinda feels like a bearing for which the hole is too big, but you only really feel it between 40-50 mph.
Post #403633 2nd Mar 2015 12:32pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Just to finish my bit off here.....

I swapped over the drums and ultimately didn't help. I'm now back on the original drum but only after fitting the new flange.

Gonna use the original flange as some kind of paper weight Mr. Green (bloody thing!)
Post #407798 15th Mar 2015 5:42pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
to be honest caterham , I would be very very surprised if the old flange is out of true , bits like that are made by the hundred by cnc machine , for one to be wrong there would be more wrong out there , and never heard of it before

guessing all round surfaces would have been machined at the same time (without moving the flange mounting I mean ) , so for one surface to be out im sure all would be out , first thing I bet it would pi55 out oil etc

sure its just adjusted right this time Whistle

would be intresting to know if you got it checked by someone with a lathe etc
Post #407822 15th Mar 2015 6:44pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I hear what you're saying munch90 and completely agree.

I personally had the old drum off my times than I care to remember and I also had someone who k.ow what they were doing take it off and replaced the drum and still couldn't get it right. New drum off, new flange fitted, original drum back on and all ok?

I can't explain it cos as you say how could one flange be made wrong. That said I've been told it's not the first?
Post #407833 15th Mar 2015 7:11pm
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