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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Todays jobs were a little less technical but none the less important.

Firstly a good wash and scrub up of all the underneath to get rid of the miserable road salt to reveal the extent of the lack of paintwork. Might have to invest in a cheep compressor and do an "army repaint" on the chassis and running gear!

Once dry I cracked out a can of WD40 and gave the chassis rails a good spray just to try and keep the rust at bay for now. I would have used ACF40 but my bottle had run out. Also, on that note, can you get a wd40 style spray ACF40?

Anyway! The paintwork came up lovely but the rear cross member was looking a bit tired - despite ACFfing it! So out came the wizzy wheel and gave her a quick dress back before applying sand paper to the worse effected areas.


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At this point my judgement got the better of me and instead of reaching for a can of Primer then black paint in instead picked up a can of Hammerite "Direct to rust" - as the tin said it would stick cover protect lubricate, you name it it did it. So having removed all the rust and given it a good rub back I eagerly sprayed away and much to my disgust the can produced mainly thinners which hardly any pigment at all- to the point that even a light dusting produced runs of thinners. Big Cry Very irritating so this was wiped off (as best you can) and allowed to breath before being quickly rubbed back and then painted with a more sensible halfords matt black.


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Looks ok from here but up close looks like its been painted with a tar brush. Which may be an advantage as tar preserved the HMS Victory for years so may not be such a bad thing. Whistle Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #414310 6th Apr 2015 9:01pm
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chrispy



Member Since: 14 Mar 2015
Location: Gwent
Posts: 347

Wales 1987 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Keswick Green
Excellent work on this my friend, I have all the admiration in the world for you guys who take on these big jobs yourselves. I'm not that mechanically gifted so ours have to go in to the garage for professional repairs. I do love reading these project / restoration threads though, it helps me realise how all those years p'ing about with computers was wasted when I could / should have been in the garage with my brothers.
Post #415578 11th Apr 2015 11:05pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Thank you Chrispy Bow down

I'm glad people are reading my ramblings and enjoying them Very Happy

Hopefully it will encourage others to have a go and maybe learn from my mistakes or share guidance and knowledge!

Forums are a community and community's benefit from sharing knowledge and experience. Smile

ANYWAY.

My search for a Td5 dashboard has been so far fruitless as they are ether miles away, the price of a complete bulkhead or from dubious sellers.

So I decided to make my own, with blackjack and hookers!

It began with the purchase of a complete dash for an early (1997) defender dash from CSK who had one cheep.


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After a quick clean up the top of the heating chamber was unscrewed and removed.


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Much to my delight it wasn't completely full of mud and rust with only some minor mud in the very bottom,this was cleaned up and rubbed back and then some Rust Converter applied.


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This was then given a light coat of Etch Primer to give a good surface to key onto.


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Once dry it was then given a coat of Satin Black.

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It really doesn't matter about the paint finish, to be honest I could have just treated the rust and then left it but that's not really the point of a running restoration now is it?

Once dry this will be given a layer of sound proofing and then some heat insulation which I call "Spaceman's Trousers" because its the best way to describe how it looks.

Then the real fun begins.... Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #415677 12th Apr 2015 1:40pm
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chrispy



Member Since: 14 Mar 2015
Location: Gwent
Posts: 347

Wales 1987 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Keswick Green
Excellent work my friend, excellent work.

I'm about to undertake soundproofing my wife's 90 as it's a tad bit on the loud side. I bought 30 sheets of this stuff ->



for £39.99. I wanted the stick on panels as I think it would be easier for me in the long run, especially when cutting out the side panels to fit the Masai windows she's going to have. There's a new soundproofing / rubber mat in the front footwell but it's coming up to have these put down behind it as well just to add a little bit and all the back and roof will be done also. Is this the kind of stuff you're using?

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #415678 12th Apr 2015 1:48pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
That stuff looks great and very similar to the "Dynamatt or Skinz" style stuff which has been used to great effect by other people on here so I can see no problem with you using it.

I am using something called "antiphon" which I saved from going in the skip at work. Looking at the website and specs its what most large car manufactures use as panel sound absorbers. I have used it on the roof and rear floor and rear aches to great effect and have been very pleased with it, particularly as it was free! The only downside I have with it is that it is in disks which makes it a bit ugly. Having said that, it does have the advantage of having an industrial adhesive on both sides which means it sticks to both the metal and the "spacemans trousers" I have been laying over the top of it to improve the temperature inside the vehicle.

First the panel deadening disks were cut and warmed up (in the glorious Kentish sun) to become more sticky and plyable to help with fitting. It cuts quite easily with a nice sharp Stanley blade.

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This panel was given a good layer to try and boost the effectiveness of the speaker by giving it something nice and solid to work against.


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The area around the lower vent holes is cut to allow the flaps free movement. Yes this is the only control which directs flow from your feet to the windscreen! Note the tiny leaf spring which helps make sure the vents close down!


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As promised - "SPACEMANS TROUSERS!" Its a self adhesive foam with a sort of quilted aluminium to reflect heat away from the metal work. Usually this is applied to the inside of a vehicle to keep the vehicle warm and stop heat loss through the panels. In this application it is to keep the warm air warm before being blown onto your feet or windscreen. It cuts very easily with a nice sharp stanley again.



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The backing is pealed off the disks and then the backing off the foam. At this point they will attract each other and stick like poo to a blanket so make sure any alterations or adjustments to the fitting are done before removing the backings. It is then gently placed into place and then rubbed down hard to make sure it sticks evenly to both the metal and the sound deadening.


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It is important to make sure that the flaps are free and unobstructed in order for them to shut properly. If they don't you will get a very poor windscreen clearing "blast"


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Shiney eh? The flaps are reassembled and the tiny springs put back in. Care should be taken here as this is hopefully likely the last time I will see this for the next few years.


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Once it was all stuck down the wire which controls the flap position is carefully threaded back into its protective sheath and the "lid" closed on all your hard work.

Screws done up!


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Rubber grommets added, these hold a section of about 3" flexible pipe between the windscreen demisters and the box. Amazing how poorly thought out and done this part is!! Can't think why Land Rovers have for years struggled with crappy heaters!

Now that the lower half of the dash is done, the more boring bit starts with lots of measuring and marking and then very very careful cutting. For now though here is a cheeky mock up of how it will hopefully look!


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Following on from last weekends activities with painting the rear cross-member, the final touches were put on to my adjustable drop plate.


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Dead posh Very Happy Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #415810 12th Apr 2015 9:10pm
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chrispy



Member Since: 14 Mar 2015
Location: Gwent
Posts: 347

Wales 1987 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Keswick Green
Get that bloody rear step done it's spoiling all the great work you've done on the drop plate and rear cross member lol. Brilliant work again my friend. I love catching up on your posts here, always informative and entertaining. I'd love a 110 myself, maybe after I finish the wife's 90. I'd like to build my apocalypse vehicle in preparation of Armageddon lol. Thanks for the updates and advice, much appreciated Thumbs Up
Post #415818 12th Apr 2015 9:38pm
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Harbour Lad



Member Since: 11 Apr 2015
Location: Eastbourne
Posts: 4

United Kingdom 
Nice one, your build is giving me some ideas and inspiration for my planned 110 USW project, just need to find a nice base vehicle first!
Post #415856 12th Apr 2015 11:30pm
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chrispy



Member Since: 14 Mar 2015
Location: Gwent
Posts: 347

Wales 1987 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Keswick Green
That's the great thing about these restoration posts, it gives everyone else ideas on how to approach jobs and what to use. This post is a prime example of a top class 'how to'.
Post #415871 13th Apr 2015 7:18am
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Thanks Guys Bow down

Yes I think the rear step is next to be unbolted and re-painted.

Along with everything else underneath Big Cry Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #415935 13th Apr 2015 1:22pm
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chrispy



Member Since: 14 Mar 2015
Location: Gwent
Posts: 347

Wales 1987 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Keswick Green
Why were you looking for measurements for the centre dash console if I may ask?
Post #415997 13th Apr 2015 8:05pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Nahh Time will tell.

I might be able (if I'm lucky) to graft a Td5 dash onto a frame I have already got, alternatively I can build up the Iron Goat Dash I have previously bought.

At the moment its just deciding what and where and thinking and getting it as I want.

Still lots of figuring out to do as I basically want to be able to take the old dash out and re install this one in one sweep as I don't have time for her to be off the road for longer than a weekend at most. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #416006 13th Apr 2015 8:31pm
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chrispy



Member Since: 14 Mar 2015
Location: Gwent
Posts: 347

Wales 1987 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Keswick Green
I can't guarantee anything but if you need the part you was having measured I may be able to help you with a new one next week if my wife chooses to switch over to the RDX centre console she's been hankering after. No guarantees but if you need it I can let you know.
Post #416008 13th Apr 2015 8:39pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
I would definitely be interested in it if it does come available. Thumbs Up Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #416017 13th Apr 2015 9:21pm
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chrispy



Member Since: 14 Mar 2015
Location: Gwent
Posts: 347

Wales 1987 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Keswick Green
No worries my friend. Just waiting on this chap coming on Saturday to collect (and pay for) the truck cab roof and headliner and then we'll be ordering the RDX one. I'll let you know as soon as it's ready Thumbs Up
Post #416024 13th Apr 2015 9:41pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3346

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Have just done the maths and it turns out I am to big by 20mm on my frame. So for now looks like I will be going ahead with the iron goat console.

Photos to follow this week some time but for now spec is going as follows:

Existing radio in radio slot.

Top left guage hole Air Pressure
Top right guage hole Tachometer

Bottom left hole Existing Square Clock
Bottom Right Hole Checktemp guage

Now just need to find a way of placing the 12v charger points nicely.

Now, Use the switch holes for switches or thin mount Cb radio?
In which case where to put the additional switches?

And wiring? And Plugs? And Td5 Switches or Oem style switches?

Will it all fit and work or will it look like I rolled my dash through the mudstuff accessories catalogue? Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #416027 13th Apr 2015 9:45pm
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