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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
central locking - grrrhh !
i know central locking has been on here numerous times but I'm trying to understand where the signal / power comes from to operate the rear o/s door.

for no reason its stopped working agin. its not like the problem I had with the drivers door before it was replaced....ie like the actuator was struggling to move the lock. this simply does not work....but when does / did it operates as if there's no resistance so I didn't some cleaning / oiling will make a blind bit of difference.

I'm hoping its nothing to do with the wiring within the rubber connection between door and b pillar. so where else to look?

many thanks.
Post #268409 21st Sep 2013 10:18pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16879

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
It's almost certainly the thing you say you hope it's not! Look in the rubber tube first!
Post #268413 21st Sep 2013 10:26pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
back shortly....just off to have a look.
Post #268416 21st Sep 2013 10:36pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Always check the wires in the rubber boot first
Post #268418 21st Sep 2013 10:41pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
yep that'll be it.

broken ! why do they use wire with less gurth than that of a gnat dick ?

Evil or Very Mad

oh well I guess the dealer can sort that while doing the MOT and hopefully picking up anything else on the warranty.
Post #268420 21st Sep 2013 10:45pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
If I decide not to get it 'fixed' via the dealers is there a 'best fix' ?
Post #268424 21st Sep 2013 10:54pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1728

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
When one of mine packed up I was away in France, only things I had to hand were some chocky block connectors, some ex power tool 2 core flex and some silicone sealer, 2 .5 years on, that one is still sweet!

I wouldn't recommend the chocky blocks, but decent quality rubber covered mains flex is of a much better rating, has finer strands and is more flexible than the tat LR use.

Keith
Post #268428 21st Sep 2013 11:25pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
thanks Keith

presumably choc blocks in the b pillar and again in the door?

will have another look in the day light but wonder if its possible to use some better wire and make it look like a factory fit?
Post #268431 21st Sep 2013 11:37pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1867

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
I would recommend tri rated 1.5mm cable, it is fine multi stranded and made for flex and tight bends.
If your near me in south Wales you can have FOC
Thumbs Up 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #268434 21st Sep 2013 11:52pm
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Use decent crimp connectors and the proper tool, avoid choc blocks as many corrode and Scotchloks. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #268500 22nd Sep 2013 10:59am
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
thank you bear100 for the offer.
I may well have some already.

Steve - are you suggesting that its best to cut the middle section (in the rubber) out and crimp in a new section (crimping both sides of the rubber flexi or simply crimp the existing back together at point of failure.

I'll go have another look but gut feeling is its not possible to use the existing connections to solder in a complete new length of wire (the existing connections look very small / fine and manufactured / non serviceable)?

obviously the end within the b pillar is a plug connection but is the other end hard wired to solenoid or is it a plug connection? if its a plug both ends might simply replace and do again in another 3 years? (like make it part of the 3 year service schedule so to speak?
Post #268503 22nd Sep 2013 11:05am
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PaulMc



Member Since: 17 Jan 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Arles Blue
The main problem with the Land Rover door harnesses (apart from the routing of the convoluted grommet), is that they they use a small gauge cable (0.75mm˛).

The 2-way MQS connectors, used as the interconnection between the door harness and the rear side doors link harness, can't (officially) accommodate a larger gauge cable.

However, you can squeeze 1.0mm˛ into the terminals, but no larger than this.

If you use a different type of sealed 2-way connector, that will accommodate a larger gauge cable (Superseal, Econoseal, Metripack), the connector then won't fit through the hole in the door pillar.

. Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'
Post #268538 22nd Sep 2013 12:41pm
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rs2315



Member Since: 16 Sep 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 125

I did a search on central locking, and came up with this thread.

My rear o/s door interior latch is not going down when I press fob to lock doors.
All other doors lock correctly.

After reading this thread it seems it could be a wire problem.

Amateur mechanic that I am, could someone explain clearly where to look for possible damage to wire, one of the posts mentions checking wires in rubber boot??
Where is rubber boot located?

Thanks for any input.


rs2315.
Post #278808 2nd Nov 2013 3:34pm
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WelshGas



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Vale of Glamorgan
Posts: 935

Wales 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
There is a rubber corrugated tube between the door frame and door where the hinges are. This tube/boot covers the wires that go from vehicle into the door for the central locking. Should be able to pull the end out of the door frame and check the wires visually and the tension in case the break in the wire is at the other end of the boot. Thumbs Up LANDYWATCH

Neighbourhood Watch for Land Rover Owners

http://www.landywatch.co.uk/smf2/index.php
Post #278812 2nd Nov 2013 3:51pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
well LR have kindly sorted it for me?

Thumbs Up

(while they were at it a new prop shaft and bumper Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
Post #278821 2nd Nov 2013 4:22pm
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