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Oscar Romeo



Member Since: 16 Apr 2014
Location: South Yorks, the pinnacle of all human achievement
Posts: 121
England 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Rimini Red
No probs mate!

So whats the problem! Trailer wiring or central locking?
Post #339001 18th Jun 2014 6:23pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Don't know for sure yet. Central locking to rear o/s door has stopped working again and assume it's the wiring again....at same time I found trailer brake light isn't working so assumed it was socket wiring again but looks like it's nothing more than a blown bulb but won't know till I get caravan back again.

Rumbling etc is getting worse so suspect front diff is shot Crying or Very sad
Post #339004 18th Jun 2014 6:37pm
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Oscar Romeo



Member Since: 16 Apr 2014
Location: South Yorks, the pinnacle of all human achievement
Posts: 121
England 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Rimini Red
Does it lock after its been manually unlocked?

If it were mine, i would have the door card off, check for bad connections to the motor. If this didn't produce anything i'd remove the loom out of the door back to the b pillar. Then examine for damage and test continuity of each wire.
If this still didn't yield any results i would be inclined to see if voltage is present at the motor by using the test light on my voltage probe.

The fact it doesn't work at all makes it so much easier to find.
Let us know how you go on?
Post #339011 18th Jun 2014 6:59pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
As you've suggested it should be simple to find / resolve....find the time might not be so easy.
Post #339016 18th Jun 2014 7:12pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558
England 
Caterham wrote:
thanks for that info.

this time its just stopped work it may have shown signs of being intermittent once or twice but no seems to have completely given up.

not for this reason because as you say this connection to the door is a common problem however I do have serious concerns about the wiring loom.

- can I ask has anyone had, is anyone aware of the purple / black wire in the rear wheel with connector (12v aux that appears to be spare) to have fallen off twice due to the copper in the cable corroding.

mine fell off within a few months. new one crimped on by dealer and again cable corroded and it fell off !! ??

and as above now on second trailer wiring and got an issue with brake light (and no its not corroded in the plug - looks new) ? just concerned when I read threads about brake lights / engine running problems? hmm


on a 2011 defender you've had 2 of the aux socket sockets in the rear speaker panel corrode and break off ??

was the copper wire green and corroded ?
Post #339037 18th Jun 2014 8:07pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Yes like a load of flux was left on to make it corrode.

Never got an explanation from LR for that?
Post #339049 18th Jun 2014 8:29pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558
England 
thats terrible on a 2011 defender , I would get some battery terminal spray and give the socket a spray to stop any corrosion again

or cut wire right back to find bright copper then use that part as once wire has corroded ( gone green ) you're never get a good cornection or solder joint , normally wire will be black back up the wire from the corroded part on the end
Post #339056 18th Jun 2014 8:44pm
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Oscar Romeo



Member Since: 16 Apr 2014
Location: South Yorks, the pinnacle of all human achievement
Posts: 121
England 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Rimini Red
Sorry mate i am even more confused, what is your issue and how can we help?
Post #339092 18th Jun 2014 10:52pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I think (hope) the issue is no more than simply the fix that was done 6 months ago by LR needs fixing again (hopefully its nothing more than a break in the cable from b pillar to door but I need to find the time to have a look.

will let you know once I have had the door card off etc.
Post #339128 19th Jun 2014 8:12am
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
So door harness replaced and now working a treat again.

While I was at it put half a sheet of dynamat in the door Thumbs Up
Post #350882 10th Aug 2014 9:27pm
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Cuthbert



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Up North
Posts: 1535
Reading this makes me glad I just specified the 'olde worlde' wind up/down windows. Something else not to go wrong.
Post #350899 10th Aug 2014 10:37pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
me too windy up ones........in the back at least where the children sit ! Laughing

front ones have been faultless...... Shocked - what have I said / gone and done now.


so 3 more doors to do with the dynamat. will given em all a squirt of acf 50 and lubricants etc while I'm at it. Thumbs Up
Post #350948 11th Aug 2014 10:00am
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Drivers door has been struggling to on/close to to central locking and has now stopped working.
What's th answer - please don't say oil in the key hole as i've done a shed load of that's and to no avail. Any other ideas?

I'm guessing one of the pivots inside the door and is corroded / seized?
Post #490004 8th Jan 2016 6:36pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
update.

the solenoid has been disconnected from the locking mechanism but still goes woa woa woa and doesn't move.

wiring or solenoid?

I'm trying to get a new loom (just can't be ars'd with trying to repair the wiring - if that's what it is).

do you reckon it's more likely a knackered solenoid than wiring?
how much to replace the solenoid?

many thanks.
Post #490998 11th Jan 2016 2:55pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769
England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
I replaced one second row solenoid that sounded to be going slow for ages, then it stopped all together but the new one works perfectly. Only trouble is, I can now hear how slow the opposite side second row one sounds so it looks like I'll be replacing that one too quite soon Big Cry

I think the new solenoid was about £60 ish Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #491016 11th Jan 2016 3:42pm
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