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rs2315

Member Since: 16 Sep 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 125

WelshGas wrote:
There is a rubber corrugated tube between the door frame and door where the hinges are. This tube/boot covers the wires that go from vehicle into the door for the central locking. Should be able to pull the end out of the door frame and check the wires visually and the tension in case the break in the wire is at the other end of the boot.

Thanks Welsh, I'll take a look, when it stops raining.

Have a feeling it will be a garage job, sod's law, it was only in a couple of weeks back for service, mot

rs2315.

2nd Nov 2013 4:47pm

rs2315

Member Since: 16 Sep 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 125

Caterham wrote:
well LR have kindly sorted it for me?

(while they were at it a new prop shaft and bumper

Hope my guy's can sort mine.

Oh how I loved those days of just pushing the latch down and just shutting the door.

Technology

rs2315.

2nd Nov 2013 4:50pm

Caterham

Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

I thought they were going to plug a new bit of loom in but I gather a crimp and some heat shrink has sorted it ?

I still think the door needs moving back a little but hay ho.

2nd Nov 2013 5:16pm

rs2315

Member Since: 16 Sep 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 125

WelshGas wrote:
There is a rubber corrugated tube between the door frame and door where the hinges are. This tube/boot covers the wires that go from vehicle into the door for the central locking. Should be able to pull the end out of the door frame and check the wires visually and the tension in case the break in the wire is at the other end of the boot.

Removed the rubber boot, and as somebody has all ready mentioned such skinny wires

Just stupid using wires like that, and hoping rubber case will protect at crease point.

I pulled on pink wire, and guess what, it's no longer attached to the other bit of pink wire.

Well at least I've sussed why central locking not working, now for a fix.

rs2315.

8th Nov 2013 2:26pm

ARC99

Member Since: 19 Feb 2013
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1831

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Cairns Blue

My 110 has just come back from a MOT. While locking the vehicle for overnight storage the mechanic from the garage found the rear offside door would not lock and that the reason was a broken wire, new short length inserted with soldered ends and it cost less than a pint of beer.

Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place,
so it doesn't take much to

us off.

Richard

8th Nov 2013 6:05pm

rs2315

Member Since: 16 Sep 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 125

Well if I can fix it I'll treat myself to a pint

At least if the other doors give up the ghost, I'll know where to start looking.

I thought it was just the Italians that couldn't do wires

rs2315.

9th Nov 2013 10:11am

rs2315

Member Since: 16 Sep 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 125

Just a final update, central locking working again

Took the job on myself.
Removed rear N/S door card thinking it would give me a chance to pull rubber cover along, so i could get to wires more easily.
Waste of time, no better off, luckily I didn't break any door card plugs, so was able to put it back on no probs.

Pondered for a while, then decided to snip down the seam of the rubber cover, cutting just enough to get to broken wire. Used 15 amp butt connector, and crimped nice and tight.
The other wires outer cover had split, but had not gone right through, so taped it up good and proper.
Pushed all wires back in to rubber cover, then taped up the split I'd made.
Can't really tell theres any tape, so job looks good.
If I have any more probs down there at least I'll have easy access to wires.

rs2315.

29th Nov 2013 3:06pm

AlanH

Member Since: 15 Mar 2010
Location: WA
Posts: 242

Just what I was looking for as my o/s rear door has just stopped locking. 1 month out of warranty.

I won't be asking them to fix it as I've a feeling doing it myself using the tips here will be more permanent.
AlanH.

20th Dec 2013 10:57am

AlanH

Member Since: 15 Mar 2010
Location: WA
Posts: 242

Done it. Checked the wire and sure enough the pink one had broken. So I soldered a short length of slightly bigger wire and covered it with heat shrink and bingo! it works OK.
Thnx for the advices.
AlanH.

27th Dec 2013 10:26am

Caterham

Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

Well done Mr H.

27th Dec 2013 2:21pm

Caterham

Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

So not such a great fix....broke again

And so has the brakes on the caravan so suspect the trailer wiring outlet at fault again (loose wiring again?)

17th Jun 2014 7:55pm

ZeDefender

Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue

Bloody hell mate - how many things have gone wrong now

It's a bit beyond a "Monday morning" motor now, don't you think?

That being said, the wires just broke inside my offside passenger door - alarm kept going off when my daughter opened it before I noticed

Next time I'll drag the wires out and solder something sensible in their place... Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

17th Jun 2014 8:12pm

Caterham

Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

17th Jun 2014 8:19pm

Oscar Romeo

Member Since: 16 Apr 2014
Location: South Yorks, the pinnacle of all human achievement
Posts: 121

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Rimini Red

this fault is common on a lot of vehicles. the copper can break inside the cable leaving the insulation intact making very hard to spot. this kind of fault is usually intermitant to add to your woes.

That a side, one thing not mentioned on this thread is that thin cable will be probaly be "thin wall" this is now widley used by vehicle manfactures. the premise being apart from the obvious cost saving of using less copper, the insulation being thinner the heat is disapated better causing less vehicle fires. also the restivity of the circuit changes and extra load can be added if larger cables are fitted instead this in turn can pull down voltage on canbus systems and cause all kinds of problems.

my advice would be always replace like for like, i know this theory dosent always work but its often the safest way of doing things.

18th Jun 2014 7:48am

Caterham

Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6264

thanks for that info.

this time its just stopped work it may have shown signs of being intermittent once or twice but no seems to have completely given up.

not for this reason because as you say this connection to the door is a common problem however I do have serious concerns about the wiring loom.

- can I ask has anyone had, is anyone aware of the purple / black wire in the rear wheel with connector (12v aux that appears to be spare) to have fallen off twice due to the copper in the cable corroding.

mine fell off within a few months. new one crimped on by dealer and again cable corroded and it fell off !! ??

and as above now on second trailer wiring and got an issue with brake light (and no its not corroded in the plug - looks new) ? just concerned when I read threads about brake lights / engine running problems? hmm

18th Jun 2014 8:09am

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