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kmac



Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1294

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
How does one get to the headlamp connectors - seems like there's so much "stuff" in the way to be able to just reach your arm in and unplug the existing H4 connectors?
Post #188197 25th Nov 2012 12:31pm
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WelshGas



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Vale of Glamorgan
Posts: 935

Wales 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
You will have to take the headlights out to change over the connectors. Thumbs Up
The biggest problem I had was the alternator feed. On the Puma you just cannot get to the rear of the alternator to attach the feed without removing the alternator so I have just run a heavy duty cable back to the + on the battery. All works fine and if for any reason I do have to remove the alternator then I'll wire the feed in but in the meantime the feed from the battery will do the business. Whistle LANDYWATCH

Neighbourhood Watch for Land Rover Owners

http://www.landywatch.co.uk/smf2/index.php
Post #188248 25th Nov 2012 4:17pm
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kmac



Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1294

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
WelshGas wrote:
You will have to take the headlights out to change over the connectors. Thumbs Up


Do you mean by unscrewing from the front of the vehicle?

Would have thought that a battery connection would be fine for headlamps - no need to really wire up to alternator.
Post #188258 25th Nov 2012 5:10pm
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WelshGas



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Vale of Glamorgan
Posts: 935

Wales 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Yes, you have to remove the Headlight trim each side. 2 screws on the trim and remove the sidelight and indicator, 2 screws each. Then there are 4 screws holding the headlight at approx: 11, 1, 5 and 7 o'clock . Don't touch any other screws or you will have to re-level headlamp. The headlamp then lifts forward, or up & forward if you have headlamp levelling. Have fun. Thumbs Up LANDYWATCH

Neighbourhood Watch for Land Rover Owners

http://www.landywatch.co.uk/smf2/index.php
Post #188298 25th Nov 2012 7:47pm
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Blott



Member Since: 12 Aug 2013
Location: St Ives, Cambridgeshire
Posts: 7

England 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Baltic Blue
Hi Guys,
I got this loom as the light switch on my 2002 TD5 decided to die during the MOT test having checked it all the night before.

Having got the loom I am struggling to get it all working. It looks like plug and play but I suspect I have made a wrong connection somewhere. I have it earthed to the body OK. The alternator on my TD5 has a push fit multi plug socket on the back and on the side visible, a terminal to which a heavy duty wire goes and which is covered by a rubber cap. Is it that terminal to which I connect? I have tried it and with every thing connected and plugged in still no lights. If I unplug the loom and reconnect the old headlight supplies all work OK. Puzzled.

Thanks.

Blott Blott
Post #268308 21st Sep 2013 12:51pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Surely the live and earth should go directly to the battery if its a loom to take the load away from the switch.
Post #268311 21st Sep 2013 1:10pm
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WelshGas



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Vale of Glamorgan
Posts: 935

Wales 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Hi Blott, that is correct. The loom basically is connected to the -tve and +tve of the battery. This can be done in a number of ways. -tve direct to battery or to a good earthing point on the chassis/body/engine/drivetrain.
+tve direct to battery , or as you pointed out the +tve lead connected to the alternator, which is connected to the +tve of the battery.
The new loom and relays now carry the current for the headlights and the head lamp switches now just switch the relays only.
Thumbs Up LANDYWATCH

Neighbourhood Watch for Land Rover Owners

http://www.landywatch.co.uk/smf2/index.php
Post #268314 21st Sep 2013 1:37pm
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Blott



Member Since: 12 Aug 2013
Location: St Ives, Cambridgeshire
Posts: 7

England 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Baltic Blue
The +ve off the alternator is definitely live and as the others are all "plug and play" I suspect it's the earth. I will run it back to the battery -ve and see if that's the cause and if we have light. Should be simple but with a Land Rove who knows.......

Blott Blott
Post #268324 21st Sep 2013 2:21pm
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WelshGas



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Vale of Glamorgan
Posts: 935

Wales 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Please don't take offence. But you have replaced or repaired the headlight control switches that failed? Whistle LANDYWATCH

Neighbourhood Watch for Land Rover Owners

http://www.landywatch.co.uk/smf2/index.php
Post #268338 21st Sep 2013 4:01pm
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Blott



Member Since: 12 Aug 2013
Location: St Ives, Cambridgeshire
Posts: 7

England 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Baltic Blue
No offence taken! Switch was changed for a new unit to pass the MOT. Lights work on the old arrangement, just need to get them working with the purpose made loom extension which includes the relays.

Blott Blott
Post #268355 21st Sep 2013 7:12pm
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WelshGas



Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Vale of Glamorgan
Posts: 935

Wales 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
I earthed mine to the main earthing point on the chassis that the earth cable from the battery is attached to, not the body. The +tve was connected to the battery directly as it is virtually impossible to connect to the output terminal of the alternator on a Puma, without a lot of dismantling . Hope you sort it out. One thing, check the fuses on the loom are OK. Thumbs Up LANDYWATCH

Neighbourhood Watch for Land Rover Owners

http://www.landywatch.co.uk/smf2/index.php
Post #268364 21st Sep 2013 7:25pm
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Merlin



Member Since: 30 Oct 2010
Location: Newmarket
Posts: 980

United Kingdom 
There is a video on You Tube showing how someone has done this mod. Trouble is it's all in Australian! And no sub-titles!



Is there a kit in the UK?

Merlin
Post #283735 20th Nov 2013 3:45pm
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Merlin



Member Since: 30 Oct 2010
Location: Newmarket
Posts: 980

United Kingdom 
Thought it worth mentioning a problem I have had with a loom I bought of fleabay. The loom worked, or so I thought, and everything seemed ok. Then I realised that there was no 'flash' on dip. All alright without the lights on, but when on no flasher.

It turns out that the supplier thought it a good idea to wire the relays so that you can't have dip and main beam on at the same time. So if you had dip on you couldn't flash the headlights.

If you have fitted one of these fleabay looms, have a try flashing with the lights on, you never know you might have bought the same one I had.

Merlin
Post #485873 27th Dec 2015 5:24pm
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Sadi



Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Windhoek
Posts: 334

Namibia 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 Heritage Edition SW Grasmere Green
WelshGas wrote:
I earthed mine to the main earthing point on the chassis that the earth cable from the battery is attached to, not the body. The +tve was connected to the battery directly as it is virtually impossible to connect to the output terminal of the alternator on a Puma, without a lot of dismantling . Hope you sort it out. One thing, check the fuses on the loom are OK. Thumbs Up


Did you notice any improvement in the amount of emitted light? The loom - does it have thicker cables to decrease the voltage drop - as compared to the OEM cables?

Any photos available of your installation - from the battery to relay fixture?

On the Landreiziger website it mentions their loom as "The Swedish Light Switch" - due to Swedes swopping to 90W globes - in which case you need the relays to protect the OEM switch.

Thanks.
Post #486790 30th Dec 2015 6:15am
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Reminder about everything said before on this excellent Landreiziger loom. You can read everything you need to know about Voltage to headlights increase in below thread. Especially see the post by Tiger with the pictures.
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic26097-105.html

And, contrary to what some say, you do not need to connect the + feed all the way to the battery, you can connect that to the alternator, so it all stays nicely under the bonnet.
As to thicker wires, the loom was installed by my dealer, and the only thing they changed was replacing the - feed black wire by a thicker version, and simply connected that to the airco compressor where a small nut to allow this is already in place and has actually no other purpose. This would avoid any possible future deterioration of the - feed if connected elsewhere. See picture.

Click image to enlarge


Excellent proven quality piece of kit, probably not a good idea looking on fleabay for a cheap Chinese copy.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #486793 30th Dec 2015 7:00am
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