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Crofter



Member Since: 19 Feb 2015
Location: Peterhead
Posts: 169

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Baltic Blue
Engine Fault Light
My engine fault light comes on if I let the revs go above 3000 rpm.
The engine goes on to limp mode. This always clears if I stop and restart the engine, although
the engine fault light stays on for a few restarts and then clears.

Would this be an egr fault?

Are there any fixes for this?

I have a 110 Puma 2009 with 53k miles on it.

Thanks
Post #956758 28th Jun 2022 5:04pm
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BrickBox



Member Since: 05 Oct 2021
Location: Wales
Posts: 794

Wales 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
No one will be able to help you without fault codes, unfortunately.. 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
Post #956761 28th Jun 2022 5:22pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello Crofter

As BrickBox says, try to get a Fault Code Reader plugged into your Defender
and post the code, I have these for the Puma Engine (Issue date 17th Oct 2007 / 2.4tdci)
so i'll let you know what Ford say they point to...

I believe many MIL (Malfunction Illumination Light / Engine Fault Light) will go away after
around 6 cycles... but the fault may not...

See what you can get... Thumbs Up SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #956763 28th Jun 2022 5:32pm
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Crofter



Member Since: 19 Feb 2015
Location: Peterhead
Posts: 169

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Baltic Blue
Thanks for answering my query.

I will see if someone local can read the fault code for me and I will let you know the code.

At least I have a plan now.

Thanks
Post #956769 28th Jun 2022 6:32pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20263

United Kingdom 
Make sure you record the code first if it’s cleared or deleted.
Though will likely come back if fault is persistent or reoccurs unless repaired.

Ultimately, once repaired code usually is then cleared and then it won’t come back.

EGR is common, but it may not be that.
Post #956774 28th Jun 2022 7:15pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1969

United Kingdom 
Get a elm327 OBD2 code reader and load one of the many free apps on your phone to read and clear codes.

You can get cheap ones for £20

However I would spend some more and get an OBDLink mx+ As I don’t want cheap electronics talking to my ECU’s

These can be used on ANY make and model of vehicle after 2001. So a very handy tool to have.

This one off cost we be not much more than paying someone else to read your code once.
Post #956777 28th Jun 2022 7:24pm
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Crofter



Member Since: 19 Feb 2015
Location: Peterhead
Posts: 169

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Baltic Blue
That sounds good to me as I do not have anyone nearby that can read the fault.
Can you remember where you purchased the reader? I will do a search myself.

Looks like from what everybody has said it’s the only way forward.

Thanks for all your answers.
Post #956797 29th Jun 2022 7:13am
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello Crofter

You may find that a Local Land Rover Independent will be able to help you... Question

I purchased a ScanGaugeII as a result of my first...


For the 'oh-so-common' P1103 Fault Code...

Click image to enlarge


A 'Mid-Range Reader' but I've wouldn't like to be without it now, monitors a variety of Engine Parameters that you can display or just monitor your Speed (accurately when Tyre size is set) Average MPG, Trip Distances etc... But really there (for me) to diagnose a Fault Code when needed.


Click image to enlarge


Good Luck... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #956799 29th Jun 2022 7:32am
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Stacey007



Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3741

United Kingdom 
I had similar years ago.


Paid £40 to have the fault read and reset.... then a couple of weeks later same again..


Bought an Ultra gauge and its in front of dash, I can look at codes / reset / have other items on display. At least with the code you can determine what it relates to.


Since then I have also had the car mapped and EGR deleted and blanked off with this written into the map. It now doesn't do that cleaning thing when you switch off... clatter clatter clatter..




Click image to enlarge






Click image to enlarge
Post #956805 29th Jun 2022 8:28am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1969

United Kingdom 
Crofter wrote:
That sounds good to me as I do not have anyone nearby that can read the fault.
Can you remember where you purchased the reader? I will do a search myself.

Looks like from what everybody has said it’s the only way forward.

Thanks for all your answers.


I obtained mine via amazon, via an official distributor..HOWEVER be WARNED, there are FAKES out there so best to contact OBD2Link direct and they will advise who is an official UK distributor, or you should be able to purchase direct from their USA site. https://www.obdlink.com/.

I also have a nanocom, which I use for detailed specific defender diagnostics, but find for DTC reading and most diagnostics the OBD2link does a perfect job. You can leave in the cubby box ready for use, or permanently connect to obd2 port with flat ribbon type extension cable and have it sit in the tray to the left and right of the steering column. Noting the obd2link does not draw power when ignition if off, cheaper readers don’t do this. Plus it works on all vehicles, not just a defender.
Post #956826 29th Jun 2022 12:07pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1969

United Kingdom 
While awaiting your reader some visual checks you can do.

1.Hoses from turbo to intercooler and intercooler to inlet manifold. Check for splits, holes and if the pipes are in place and pipe clamps tight. Note the one from turbo to IC can split underneath due to rubbing on steering column.

2. Intercooler. These do split at the crimped seams, especially the offside (drivers side). You can remove grill to easily to check where the core is crimped to the left and right sides. Look for traces of soot and deformities in the crimps.

3. MAF sensor. On the pipe from air filter box to turbo, remove and clean with a MAF sensor cleaner.

4. MAF sensor connector and wiring to it, these can chaff.

5. AIR filter and pipe work to it to see if there are any blockages. If filter has got wet and broken up check pipe from airbox to turbo for blockages.

6. Map sensor. Nearside of engine on pipe to inlet manifold, remove and clean oil and gunk from sensor, MAF cleaner will do this .

Without codes it could be any of these, but visual checks on all can be done while awaiting the arrival of your reader.


Last edited by Ianh on 29th Jun 2022 12:36pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #956827 29th Jun 2022 12:23pm
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Stacey007



Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3741

United Kingdom 
I Bought my Ultra gauge direct from USA

https://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/
Post #956829 29th Jun 2022 12:35pm
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Ashbyandy



Member Since: 17 Dec 2015
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 222

England 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 Adventure Phoenix Orange

Click image to enlarge



Hi all,
Today we have had a similar problem with a 2.2 defender. The customer has had the EML coming on for a while now, and we’ve been investigating the problem. The wires to his MAF sensor were very chafed, and bent down. We have replaced the plug and about 30cm of wiring. Took some extra precautions and fitted heat shrink on to the wires up tight to where they go in to the plug. This led me to wonder why this had happened, as my sensor wires on my 2.2 are also chafed and bent down. On investigation we found that they can actually touch the underneath of the bonnet when it’s closed, we found rubbing marks in the paint of the bonnet. Between us we’ve done about 1 1/2 hours of test driving, under load etc, and the fault hasn’t reoccurred. The customer came back from his drive, and couldn’t thank us enough. 👍😁

His fault code, is as shown on the attached picture.

Maybe worth checking, and see if there are any tell tale signs underneath your bonnet(s). I’m going to get some self adhesive foam to put around my sensor.

Ashbyandy
Post #956851 29th Jun 2022 5:45pm
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Julie



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: Nantes
Posts: 455

France 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Ianh wrote:
While awaiting your reader some visual checks you can do.

1.Hoses from turbo to intercooler and intercooler to inlet manifold. Check for splits, holes and if the pipes are in place and pipe clamps tight. Note the one from turbo to IC can split underneath due to rubbing on steering column.

Without codes it could be any of these, but visual checks on all can be done while awaiting the arrival of your reader.


Mine did split underneath. I was 100% sure that it was the turbo (turbo hole at 1500 rpm + Engine light lit)
But : Unless you do not unmount, you won't find anything. You won't feel it.

And finally I saw : 8 cm split Sad

Look at this : https://www.danddautoworks.biz/history-check-engine-light/
Post #956927 30th Jun 2022 7:23pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1969

United Kingdom 
Any updates Crofter ?

Always nice to understand if the issue was resolved and how so other members can benefit from your experience.
Post #957392 5th Jul 2022 7:24pm
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