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| HowieB Member Since: 09 Jul 2016 Location: East Sussex Posts: 11   
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Big thanks to Chris, aka Zagato.
Picked up my 90 on Sunday after having full treatment. Excellent job done. Highly recommend Chris's service, very helpful and wealth of knowledge. |
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6th Sep 2016 9:28pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3701
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Hello
I 'think' this is a job I would like to do rather than put it off... I would like Zagato to do it, as looking at his work it's very good, he's also been very kind with some PM updates. So I think I have found the kit I need.. there is someone local who uses waxoil (I Used this many years ago on mini's) quality of work did not look that brilliant to me though... I like the finish the Dinitrol gives. 
Which includes this. EXTRA LARGE CLASSIC RUSTPROOFING AEROSOL SPRAY KIT Suitable for vehicles – MOTORHOME, LARGE VAN Kit contains: 8 x DINITROL 3125 Cavity Wax 500ml Aerosol can 13 x DINITROL 4941 Black Underbody Wax 500ml Aerosol can 1 x Can Gun Trigger for Aerosol 1 x DINITROL RC900 Rust Converter Spray 400ml Aerosol can 2 x Extension Spray nozzle (600mm long) for Aerosol can 1 x Black Tapered Plastic Blanking Plugs 10mm (pack of 50) then John Reeds of Rejel place this is coming from says he will swap the cans I need with in this to do a 110? not sure what that means.. The kit is around £140 for the bits (spray on) I now have some ramps / axle stands but I do NOT intend to take more than 1 wheel at a time off... Few questions. I understand I need to removes as much mud and surface rust as possible from under the car, so Jetwash followed with wire brush? Then I have to get it dry for 2 to 3 days.... (guess I cannot use the car if wet?) Then start applying the stuff... can this be done by a non-professional (ie ME) in a day? I'm looking at getting a boiler suit, masks, goggles and gloves... ooh and a cover for the drive (which is one reason to do it now as my car currently sits under a lean to and concrete base, but soon we are covering this with stone...so will hide any mess I make doing this job...) Last question I will throw out there.... Anyone near Chester who would like to help for some beer much appreciated 
Thanks |
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8th Sep 2016 3:57pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2290 
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Hello Stacy007
Your questions in order... John at Rejel is probably saying he will swap into this kit what you ideally need to do a 110 (check exactly what you will get if so) Standard (Large) Kit is... 8 x DINITROL 3125 Cavity Wax 500ml Aerosol can 13 x DINITROL 4941 Black Underbody Wax 500ml Aerosol can 1 x Can Gun Trigger for Aerosol 1 x DINITROL RC900 Rust Converter Spray 400ml Aerosol can 2 x Extension Spray nozzle (600mm long) for Aerosol can 1 x Black Tapered Plastic Blanking Plugs 10mm (pack of 50) I used this for a 90...but went down the compressor route not spray cans... X2 RC 900 Rust Converter Aerosol Cans, with a Extension Wand X2 Ltr ML Penetrating Fluid Schutz Cans X4 Ltr 3125 HS Cavity Wax X10 Ltr 4941 Surface Wax 1 Schutz Spay Gun with Extension wand 1 Ltr of fe-123 Rust Converter Probably get more than you think... (when you're into this you don't want to run out) 
I wouldn't use the blanking plugs when done, as the Defender Chassis is designed to 'drain' when water gets in...and therefore dry out Jet wash...everywhere...everywhere...hours spent here will be worth it... 
I wouldn't use a wire brush (unless to remove / key some lose rust) if you are talking about getting dirt out then something much smaller will be required, if the jet wash doesn't remove it...a toothbrush even or a small 'scraper'...you will know when you do this, as the remaining 'stuff' is in corners and hard to get into small areas Cleaning is a days job (IMO) even with what you think is a 'clean and tidy' Defender, that you have previously pointed the hose underneath... 
Let it dry out...totally...it takes what it takes...and yes no wet use... 
'Applied in a day by a none professional'...yes but I doubt you would want the result... 
This timescale is only without removing anything (tread shows to an extent what is typically removed) but if you go down the route of spraying a standard (nothing off) vehicle, one day by areosol is not enough (IMO) to do a thorough job. Obvious really 75% Preparation... 25% Execution (worth the effort though) This is at least a whole weekends job...more if you 'strip' off stuff...
Good Luck SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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8th Sep 2016 4:51pm |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 647  
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If I was nearer I would happily give you a hand!
I have not used Dinatrol but Bilt Hamber and would suggest unless it is a nearly new chassis you will need to allow a couple of days to do it as you will need for any rust treatment to dry before applying the top coat. If you can borrow ramps so you can get all 4 wheels up then you will get along much quicker as you can move around underneath a lot easier. If you are on concrete then a mechanics creeper would help even more. Good luck with it and fingers crossed for a dry weekend. To add to X4SKP's post - cleaning will take longer than you think - I use hose and jet wash and let it dry fully then clean with paint brushes using degreaser and then rinse again. I would suggest 2 or 3 attempts with drying each time is needed to get it clean. Last edited by Scotm on 8th Sep 2016 5:05pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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8th Sep 2016 5:00pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19677
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You might need to hoover out sections of your chassis, especially the large chassis holes in the rear arches.
Those two I taped over with duck tape, only those two as they are a mud trap. Drying time, a warm day and dry 24hrs would be fine in my opinion. Ideally 2 days if you can. But I wouldn't say it was critical if you just wanted to go to a local shop. Just make sure it stays clean. Time is running out for decent weather so I wouldn't hang about. |
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8th Sep 2016 5:04pm |
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| simon67 Member Since: 18 Jun 2015 Location: west sussex Posts: 569  
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It was completed a few weeks ago, but just wanted to say thank you to Chris for a job well done
Also thanks for the kind words about the old girl |
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8th Sep 2016 5:53pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2290
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Click image to enlarge First Gear... Low Range...Creep Up... Good for general underside
(cover inner wheels with old 'sheets' to avoid over-spray) Click image to enlarge You still need to get each wheel off in turn, to tackle internal wheel arch areas... Anticipate your timing (then double it... )
No 1 Safety... 
Good Luck SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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8th Sep 2016 5:59pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3701
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Thanks all,
I may have missed the boat weather wise? I'm not sure I have enough time available (family man with two kids and School run / etc) to sort this before if anything the weather gets worse. Will make a note of all what you need from those that have done it, maybe get all the stuff ready. I notice I may need more stuff than you get in the kit and as you say would rather have it than run out. Thanks all, that 4 ramp set up looks handy, what are the covers on top of the ramps? |
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8th Sep 2016 8:29pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2290
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Hi Stacey007
A little additional woodwork to 'up' the standard metal ramps... from re-purposed packing designed to hold large diameter pipes so wheels 'step up' four positions to the top position and sit steady. The Defender can then be wedged in place with a section of telegraph pole. Actually the metal ramps have been 'adjusted' with extra metal straps added to stop them 'splaying' and to engage them into the ground blocks... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge bit of effort... but each time they come out...  SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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8th Sep 2016 9:02pm |
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| Hairysteve Member Since: 15 Jun 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 692 
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Hey Skip I have spend a few more hours tonight cleaning those hard to reach areas in preparation for the 110 to be handed over to Zagato for treatment but am curious if you have used an air compressor to try and blow dirt out of those hard to reach areas?
Thanks, Steve |
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8th Sep 2016 9:16pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3701
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Those ramps are
As you say each time you use them it must make things much easier
Think I will source all the stuff then see what chance I have of doing the job before winter |
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8th Sep 2016 9:56pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2290
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Hello Hairysteve No... I used water, lots of it, a pressure washer with a fine jet to a fan shaped nozzle, and in some areas a degreaser (Gunk) and a salt removing product too, to flush the chassis also. But if you do use a compressor make sure you wear eye protection...
If it's off to Zagato immanently then probably best not to introduce too much water unless it joins the 'line up' of vehicles waiting for the 'Z' treatment, and has time to dry out. My 'experience' is on page 12 of this thread... mine took me 6 days all in, (I used it as a kind on antidote from normal work), I wasn't in a rush, but it is a significant job to take on... From what I have read on here, Zagato looks to be a very good option...
Good Luck SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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8th Sep 2016 10:19pm |
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| Numnuts Member Since: 07 Sep 2016 Location: West Wickham Posts: 6 
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Hi All,
Great forum, never thought I'd find rust so fascinating, however since acquiring a 10 year old 90, I'm now captivated. Hoping for my first bit of advice. Car is relatively rust free appart from the corners of the rear cross member, where mud flaps are fixed. I can best describe as puff pastry.. Like the rust is causing the exterior to expand. Since the rust is localised,I'm thinking(hoping) could the rust be stabilised then area filled. Just interested in your thoughts. Click image to enlarge Regards Matt |
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9th Sep 2016 12:07am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2290
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Hello Numnuts
Rust... ...some bed time reading...
The basic approach is to: Preparation... 1. Remove anything that is lose or will flake away as it is doing nothing in terms of providing strength / integrity to the base metal, it also allows water ingress back into the area. Review what's left...you look to be ok. Just (famous last words) remove the mud flaps, knock away anything lose, wire brush, sand down and generally clean up...(preparation / best to do when area is already dry) Dry Out... 2. If wet leave to dry out...pinch wife / girlfriends / daughters hair dryer to help along (hot enough, beyond this / blow torch can cause wiring loom problems easily so avoid) Convert Rust that Remains... 3. When dry, covert what's left with a good product, I use FE 123 (reviews really well) http://www.rust.co.uk/fe-123-rust-converter/c28125/ The Rear Cross Member has a forward facing seam with intermittent welds, allowing water, crud, salt and anything else sent up from the rear wheels right into this area (not one of LR best arrangements) this area really is in the firing line. The cross member is 'this way round' to give a 'soft' radius on the outside face of the cross member (from the rear of the vehicle). This seam should be welded continuously, but isn't. Dinitrol do a conversion product RC 900 and there is also a component of conversion in the Dinitrol ML product to nuturalize the Rust...I put the Dinitrol stuff generally over the top (in the areas that needed it) of the FE 123 as I really like how the FE 123 converter works. Rust converters need some rust to work so the slight surface rust is OK it's the flaky rotten stuff you want to get rid of. Paint / Protection... 4. Now stable, provide the protection of Dinitrol (other makes are available) 4941 outside 3125 HS inside areas (chassis / cross member cavity etc) Personally I wouldn't 'fill' this seam (with anything other than a weld) as it will only work lose / cause problems down stream, really clean out well, convert what's left, and paint or seal well with a protective coating, maybe even the stone chip version of Dinitrol (or other) Click image to enlarge FE 123 (Converter) RC 900 (Converter) ML (Penetrating Fluid + Conversion) 1325 HS (Internal) 4941 (External) Good Luck SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html Last edited by X4SKP on 9th Sep 2016 12:30pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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9th Sep 2016 10:05am |
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