Home > Technical > Clicking/Clunking Noise From Driveline |
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I Like Old Skool Member Since: 23 Feb 2015 Location: Manchester Posts: 772 |
Don't want to be a doom monger at this point but from re-reading this thread you don't appear to have actually identified what the fault is before condemning the current diff and ordering the replacement?
This could still turn out to be a failing CV joint. I have smashed diffs in the past and once gone they don't normally go right again due to the chunks of sheared planet gears or sections of shattered cross pin floating around jamming up the workings. I do hope you don't find out you have bought an expensive replacement diff unnecessarily. IMO you should have done some stripping down first to identify the fault conclusively. |
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13th Aug 2015 5:50pm |
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PCA42 Member Since: 15 Jun 2014 Location: Church Stretton Posts: 468 |
I can agree with you there, and have bust two differentials in the past on other Landies. But with either wheel jacked up and one on the floor, both sides "feeling" the same if you rock the hub back and forth, I'd think it's most likely the differential.
The problem I've got is that due to lack of time this week to strip it down due to work, I still need the vehicle mobile to move around to get my other vehicles out of the garage... if it's in bits on stands etc, I can't move any of them! I can always sell the differential on again if it's not that, I've managed to bribe my mate with beer to let me use his ramp and expertise on Saturday, just got to hope it gets there! Pete 2010 Discovery 4 GS TDV6 1972 Series III 88" 2.25P |
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13th Aug 2015 11:57pm |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16933 |
A two-step test for a broken front diff:-
Apply the handbrake and make sure that the CDL is unlocked. 1) Jack up one front wheel, leaving the other on the ground. Attempt to rotate the raised front wheel. If it does not rotate at all, either the axle diff is locked solid or the CDL is stuck. 2) jack the other front wheel off the ground, attempt to rotate either of the front wheels. If they both rotate in the same direction, then the front diff is locked solid and the CDL is disengaged. If they rotate in opposite directions, the front diff is not locked and the CDL is stuck engaged. This is essentially an infallible test for a seized front diff, however it is not on its own indicative of damage to the crownwheel and pinion, nor a diff which is failing but hasn't completely locked yet. It is however likely that whilst carrying out this test any other damage will be apparent. In a good axle, everything will feel smooth. |
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14th Aug 2015 10:48am |
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