DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Clicking/Clunking Noise From Driveline

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Technical > Clicking/Clunking Noise From Driveline

Page 1 of 2

Print this entire topic ·

PCA42

Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Church Stretton
Posts: 468

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Tonga Green

Clicking/Clunking Noise From Driveline

Evening,

Yesterday I went over the Wayfarer in my 110. Nothing taxing, and didn't encounter any wheelspin etc.

However, once I came off it back onto the road, I noticed a reasonably loud clicking noise that got faster in relation to road/wheel speed. I have had plenty of stones in my tyres before, and knew it wasn't that because it sounded a little more "metallicy". I made sure diff lock was disengaged properly, but it also kept doing it if I engaged it.

It seemed to be doing it whilst under load, but also did it when I knocked it into neutral in both gearbox and transfer box with the engine off whilst rolling downhill. Taking up load, occasionally it will make a metallic banging noise, which from as far as I can tell is coming from the front axle. It also seemed to get worse when I drove round some twisty bends near Lake Vyrnwy.

Also, when I backed it down into my drive today, it suddenly came to a halt without touching the brakes with the kind of 'bounce back' you get through the torsion in the transmission. It wouldn't go backwards until I drove forwards again, but having tried to replicate it again a few times it failed to do so. The clicking/clunking also seems to be intermittent, which is annoying!

I replaced the front drive flanges last year, however there seems to be about 1/3 turn free play in the front diff when you turn the prop.

Any ideas to what it could be? My best guesses are that it's either a knackered front diff or a CV joint.

Pete

2010 Discovery 4 GS TDV6
1972 Series III 88" 2.25P

9th Aug 2015 7:00pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16884

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Quite possibly the front (2 gear on a 2008) diff breaking up. If so, beware if it siezes completely since it will become virtually impossible to do anything except drive in a straight line. Very disconcerting and somewhat dangerous.

9th Aug 2015 7:06pm

PCA42

Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Church Stretton
Posts: 468

I have come to the conclusion that it is that. I took the wheels off, and turned both hubs to try and find anything. Both of sides feel the same, quite a bit of slack to take up before diff turns, and somewhat lumpy when you rotate it back and forth.

I think I'll be using the 88" to go to work until I get my hands on a 4pin diff to go in! Pete

2010 Discovery 4 GS TDV6
1972 Series III 88" 2.25P

9th Aug 2015 9:54pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16884

An Ashcroft ATB is a cheaper and stronger option than a LR 4-gear diff.

9th Aug 2015 10:15pm

PCA42

Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Church Stretton
Posts: 468

A built one from Ashcroft is £642 all in, whereas a 4 pin standard is £587. However, the difference would make it worth getting the ATB anyway, but I would rather the ATB in the rear axle if I was only having one to reduce the small effect they have on steering (plus more effective there)... one in each would be better though

Pete

2010 Discovery 4 GS TDV6
1972 Series III 88" 2.25P

9th Aug 2015 11:08pm

Cupboard

Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey

Am I correct in thinking that the 4 pin diffs are the same front and back? Because if so (and I know it's twice the work) you could put the rear diff in the front and the ATB diff in the rear.

11th Aug 2015 12:30pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16884

No, the 110 and 130 Defenders have different diffs front and rear. Its a "Rover pattern" in the front, and a P38 in the rear. 90s have Rover pattern diffs at both ends, but they're 2-gear diffs at both ends.

4-gear Rover diffs are scarce and expensive 2nd hand.

I have ATBs F&R and can say with complete confidence that I haven't noticed any effect on the steering (certainly far less than the effect of an utterly seized 2-gear Rover diff, which is 'interesting').

When I bought the ATB for the front (the only one I bought built up) a new fully built ATB with HD R&P was substantially less than the list price for front diff from LR. So either the Ashcroft diff has gone up, or the LR diff has come down since then!

11th Aug 2015 1:34pm

PCA42

Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Church Stretton
Posts: 468

I seriously considered getting a built up ATB, however at £795 all up with VAT and delivery I couldn't justify that cost... So have just purchased a recon standard diff. Maybe I will regret it when the new one breaks at some point down the line!!

I will still be looking at an ATB for the rear once I've built up the Landy savings again!

So, apart from the differential gasket and some Ep90, what else am I going to need for the rebuild. Drive flange gaskets, the ones between the swivels and the main axle (if I go down this method)? Thinking about having a bash at it myself, I've done a rear diff before but a bit nervous about the front as it's a much bigger job. Pete

2010 Discovery 4 GS TDV6
1972 Series III 88" 2.25P

11th Aug 2015 10:01pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16884

I seem to remember doing a write-up when I did mine.

The quick way:

Remove front propshaft, jack front of vehicle so the front wheels are just off the ground (1" or so), remove tie rod (both sides) and disconnect drag link on n/s. Drain axle oil. Unbolt the swivel housing from the axle tube and withdraw the entire wheel/hub/swivel assembly about 2" from the axle, making sure you support the steering arm to prevent the assembly rotating on the hub and straining the brake hose. Repeat for other side. Unbolt diff carrier from axle, being mindful that it is fairly heavy. It will also have been glued in with about four tubes of sealant!

Before installing new diff, inspect the inboard ends of the halfshafts for damage through the hole in the axle (my failure to spot a damaged spline cost me an ATB!). Clean the mounting face for the diff (this is the hardest and most time-consuming part of the job, the old sealant is really hard to get off).

Install new diff using the recommended sealant - there's no gasket.. Slide the hub assemblies back in and bolt up. Reconnect everything, fill axle with oil, put tools away.

(Editted repeatedly for spelling! Oh, how I hate tablets with their poxy keyboard things!)

Last edited by blackwolf on 11th Aug 2015 10:39pm. Edited 3 times in total

11th Aug 2015 10:35pm

mikeh501

Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1142

Swivel oilseal behind swivel
Swivel large oil seal
Gasket for swivel ball
Optional wheel and swivel bearings while your there.
One shot grease.
Stub axle gasket
Stub axle inner oil seal
Hub inner oil seal
Split pins for track rod ends?
Instant gasket blue stuff
Opportunity to paint up your swivel housings and clean emup.
Drive member gasket

I'm doing the reverse and building my first front axle at the moment! Put the diff in last week and next are the swivels etc.

11th Aug 2015 10:35pm

mikeh501

Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1142

blackwolf wrote:
I seem to remember doing a write-up when I did mine.

The quick way:

Remove front propshaft, jack front of vehicle so the front wheels are just off the ground (1" or so), remove tie rod (both sides) and disconnect drag link on n/s. Drain axle oil. Unbolt the swivel housing from the axle tube and withdraw the entire wheel/hub/swivel assembly about 2" from the axle, making sure you support the steering arm to prevent the assembly rotating on the hub and straining the brake hose. Repeat for other side. Unbolt diff carrier from axle, being mindful that it is fairly heavy. It will also have been glued in with about gour tubes of sealant!

Before installing new diff, inspect the inboard ends of the halfshafts for damage through the hole in the axle (my failure to spot a damaged spline cost me an ATB!). Clean the mounting face for the diff (this is the hardest and most time-consuming part of the job, the old sealant is really hard to get off).

Install new diff using the recommended sealant - there's no gasket.. Slide the hub assemblies back in and bolt up. Reconnect everything, fill axle with oil, put tools away.

Can so tell you've done that before! Nicely done

11th Aug 2015 10:38pm

Lorryman100

Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

I will add to BW's write up by saying that you will also need to remove the offside ARB mounting if fitted to allow you to completely remove the final drive.

11th Aug 2015 10:57pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16884

Good point I don't have ARBs on mine so this wasn't an issue for me!

11th Aug 2015 11:00pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16884

mikeh501 wrote:
Can so tell you've done that before! Nicely done

Yes, rather more times and on more vehicles than I really wanted too, but you do get better and quicker with practice. Takes about 3 hours including putting the tools away now!

11th Aug 2015 11:04pm

Lorryman100

Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Here
Posts: 2686

If you are replacing just the diff you will also need a DTI gauge to set the backlash along with some engineers blue to check the gear mesh.

11th Aug 2015 11:04pm

Page 1 of 2

All times are GMT + 1 Hour

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum