 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Home service on the Puma |
 
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558  
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fill filter and fit all should be fine , start and run for couple of mins
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20th Jun 2014 6:01pm |
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| And1145 Member Since: 04 Sep 2013 Location: Howden Posts: 30  
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Yes, +1 to that,
Fill the filter with diesel and start it up. It may cut out a few times once started but just keep at it. It will run properly after a couple of minutes. |
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20th Jun 2014 7:17pm |
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| kimhas Member Since: 08 Feb 2013 Location: Norge Posts: 19  
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thanks. Then I will try tomarrow MY2011 Defender 110
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20th Jun 2014 8:08pm |
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| newhue Member Since: 28 Apr 2014 Location: Brisbane Posts: 351 
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Well had a crack at servicing mine yesterday for the first time and have to say the Defender has to be one of the easiest cars I've ever changed the oil on. And to my joy, after 10K km the oil was only a little dirtier in comparison to my wife's petrol powered vehicle. Last time I changed a diesel it was jet black, no way you could see through it, and stained everything black including my hands for a week. Not the case anymore.
I found comfort in the outrageous price of the "new age" oil a Defender requires actually seems to do things differently. Plus whatever new gismos on the motor to make it cleaner are actually doing something, however my EGR valve is closed because it fails every 20K. Filled both oil and fuel with liquid before re fitting, car started immediately and no dramas at all. Thanks for the snip pips of info, especially the 27ml oil filter socket. FYI In the past I have drained to much fuel out of the fuel filter looking for water and the car stalled and would not start. I was hoping a running car would keep the system airless but it didn't. To re prime the system I used my little on board air compressor and fed air into the fuel tank and sealed the filler neck with a loose rag. Cranked the motor and after a couple seconds it started and ran fine. It was heaps easier and faster than the hand priming tool LR suggest to prime the system. Because the tank to motor side of the fuel system is vacuum, and very low at that, you don't need loads of air to pressurise the fuel tank. Also after a 1 hour drive, I drained my tank and realised how warm the Diesel gets, which can cause condensation, which is why the fuel filter has a drain valve, and why LR say check for water regularly. The diesel warms because the unused proportion is returned to the tank after going through the fuel pump in the motor with is hot obviously. And as you know water, diesel, and common rails injector system are not the best of mates. Sorry if I's telling you to suck eggs, just taken me while to work out why it' so, and thought perhaps others may be able to fast track the mechanics of it and save some time and money. |
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22nd Jun 2014 9:18pm |
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