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Smick



Member Since: 18 Apr 2014
Location: Keswick
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Alpine White
Main Battery Fuse
Hi All,

Just taken delivery of Puma engine 110 Utility wagon, first trip out, park up. Regrettably left it in gear, and tried to start it when I came back. This - according to the AA - was the cause of blowing the 500amp fuse between battery & starter motor. Got L/R assistance to come & start it and replace fuse, but I'm perplexed.......

I was taught that to descend steep slopes off road in the TD5, you stopped, turned off, selected first gear / low box, started it, and it would then crawl down. How do you do that if the starter fuse is going to blow each time ?

Any technical wizard suggest what has happened here, or if my view of hill descent does not apply to the Puma based Defender?
Post #324557 18th Apr 2014 7:54pm
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2724

United Kingdom 
Hmm. I've started in gear a few times as you say, never blown the fuse! Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #324615 19th Apr 2014 12:18am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16878

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
That's just one of the reasons it's good practice to have your foot on the clutch when you start the engine!

The main fuse should not blow under these circumstances.
Post #324644 19th Apr 2014 8:38am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8578

United Kingdom 
Why do you need to turn engine off to go from high to low box?

Not sure who taught you that, but there is no need to switch engine off to change high to low or low to high. Is is really just an extra gear change.


Brendan
Post #324651 19th Apr 2014 9:27am
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

Changing from high to low on the move
With the vehicle slowing to a stop and
travelling no faster than 8 km/h (5 mph):
1.
Depress the clutch and move the transfer
lever into neutral.
2.
Just before the road wheels stop turning
(with the clutch depr
essed), push the lever
fully forward into low range

Thumbs Up


Stationary method
With the vehicle stationary and the engine
running:
1.
Depress the clutch.
2.
Move the transfer lever from the current
range setting into the
neutral position (e.g.
from high to neutral).
3.
Move the transfer lever from neutral into
the desired range setti
ng (e.g. from neutral
to low).
If there is resistance when trying to engage the
gear range, do not force the lever. Instead:
1.
With the clutch depressed and the transfer
gearbox still in neutral, select 2nd gear in
the main gearbox.
2.
Release the clutch momentarily, then
depress the clutch again and attempt to
select the desired range.
3.
Select the appropriate gear in the main
gearbox to pull away


from the LR handbook Bow down
Post #324652 19th Apr 2014 9:50am
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2724

United Kingdom 
only time I've ever been told to start in gear is when you stall on a failed hill climb.

Keep foot on brake+clutch, select low range, select reverse gear, release clutch & brake, start engine for controlled reverse descent Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #324686 19th Apr 2014 2:07pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
given the inconvenience of waiting for the AA, would it be worth carrying a spare mega fuse ? (are you ok changing it ?)
Post #324816 20th Apr 2014 8:25am
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Smick



Member Since: 18 Apr 2014
Location: Keswick
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Alpine White
Many thanks for all the helpful replies, most of which focussed on the engaging of the "crawler mode" , which I've employed after a stall as suggested by one respondent.

However, the issue for me is whether the main fuse actually inhibits that kind of manoeuvre with the Puma engine vehicle, as in my view this would be a retrograde step. Don't really fancy trying it given the cost of fuses, and the difficulty of obtaining them in a hurry. In our case, the AA patrol working on behalf of Landrover had to go to Carlisle and back to get one!

Just one of the many joys of owning a Defender, along with doors that need constant adjustment, I suppose.
Post #324846 20th Apr 2014 11:08am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Question Never heard of the 'doors need constant adjustment' scenario? I've never had to adjust mine. Care to expand? If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #324851 20th Apr 2014 11:23am
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2724

United Kingdom 
As i said, theres been numerous times I've started in gear, never blown the fuse.

Did it just happen the once? Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #324854 20th Apr 2014 11:27am
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Smick



Member Since: 18 Apr 2014
Location: Keswick
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Alpine White
Hi All,

So far the battery fuse has failed just the once - well, only 400 miles on the clock so far, so perhaps not a true test, and it COULD be a faulty fuse. Have to wait it out to see if there's a repeat, I think. Sad

K9F - My experience of Defender doors is that the fit is, shall we say, "where it touches", and getting them to shut cleanly (i.e first time fully home), especially rear doors, is the exception rather than the rule. On our TD5 we had to have them adjusted on a three monthly basis as the shims wore. It might have been an extreme example, but plenty of others I have spoken to have the same problem, and this Puma has rear doors that are hard to shut first time. No doubt we'll get an alignment done at first service, and see how it fares from there.
Post #324885 20th Apr 2014 2:26pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16878

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
blackwolf wrote:
The main fuse should not blow under these circumstances.


Sorry, which bit of this statement wasn't clear?

It could well be a one-off. I wouldn't worry unless it happens again, in which case get it sorted under warranty. It sounds as though your AA man is talking cobblers.
Post #324924 20th Apr 2014 6:56pm
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martinfiattech



Member Since: 13 Nov 2013
Location: leicester
Posts: 422

England 
Be glad you have a main battery fuse, if you have seen the damage a dead short in a starter motor or alternator can and will do to your car, you would give it a loving tap and a thank you.
I`ve rewired many cars after owners have supplied cheap starter motors.
They are very good fire lighters , I had one get hot as soon as I put the ground cable on the battery, then the bloke told me it came from a scrap yard.
Post #324935 20th Apr 2014 7:14pm
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