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Fijilandy

Member Since: 01 Feb 2021
Location: London
Posts: 6

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White

2.4 Turbo return pipe

Greetings all,

Rolling up my sleeves to change the turbo on my LHD Puma 2.4 this weekend on my driveway. Have checked exhaustively the how-to’s and watched the videos. Haven’t changed one before so wanted to eliminate any pesky delays. Seems a part of it that can cause delays or issues is the connection flange from the turbo drain pipe to the turbo. Those two bolts look like a nightmare to get out in-situ. Assume you have to undo them from under the truck?

Two solutions offered via the web are

1) undo the REAR bolt closest to the engine as this bolt is under side loading from the pipe flange due to the twisted nature of the pipe ? then undo the other one. Reinstallation looks to be a bitch with access from underneath the engine ? Reinstall the rear bolt again first so it can line up ?

2) Someone else advised to take the turbo off with the return pipe attached, pulling it out of the sump all complete and then reinstalling the pipe on the new turbo off the vehicle and then installing whole turbo and pipe together with the pipe back into the sump. I imagine this would entail having to drop the engine oil? Or does the pipe enter above the level of the oil in the sump ? This solution sounds easier and quicker ?
I just put fresh oil and filter in it a couple months ago and vehicle hasn’t been driven at all since then due to travel so the oil is still new.

Changing the turbo due to sticking turbo vane (or faulty actuator) and now on this trip also noticed the return pipe flange has a small oil leak so has to be done.
Would appreciate any knowledge on this,

Cheers

26th Sep 2025 10:28am

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8448

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

Turbo oil drains ate notoriously tricky on some vehicles.

I haven't done a turbo on a 2.4 but removing at sump end sounds far simpler and is done quite often on many engines. I expect the pipe enters above the oil level to allow quick drain. Cheers

James
110 2010 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

26th Sep 2025 1:14pm

Fijilandy

Member Since: 01 Feb 2021
Location: London
Posts: 6

Thanks JST,

I think that’s the way to go, Still trying to find out whether I can pull the drain pipe off WITHOUT dropping the oil or whether I have to drop the oil. Hopefully someone will be along shortly to tell me what I can and cannot do with that. Worse case, I’ll dump the fresh oil and put it back in or new oil (again)

26th Sep 2025 1:24pm

Siwynne

Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 622

Leave it attached to the turbo. It comes off without the need to drop the oil. Attach to new turbo and drop it in. It can be a bit fiddly and might need a second pair of hands. One above and one below but it is much easier.

26th Sep 2025 7:52pm

Fijilandy

Member Since: 01 Feb 2021
Location: London
Posts: 6

Thanks, if that’s confirmed that’s what I’ll do. Diving in shortly and hoping the anti seize spray has done its work overnight on those turbo bolts!

27th Sep 2025 10:12am

jbcollier

Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 274

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White

I’ve done this more than a few times. From underneath, use a couple of VERY long extensions with the last one being the “wobbly” type. When refitting, I start the one bolt by hand and the other slots in fairly easily.

The turbo drain tube is not easy to remove without removing the engine mount bracket so leave the tube in place.

29th Sep 2025 5:39am

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