 | Home > Td5 > oil light duration on startup |
 
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 385   
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That's not normal, my oil light barely stays on that long after an oil change let alone during normal operation. Might be worth checking/changing the oil pressure switch as first action?
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15th Jul 2025 10:53am |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 975  
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Agreed something is amiss! Not normal. 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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16th Jul 2025 6:34pm |
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| miker916 Member Since: 25 Oct 2022 Location: Fife Posts: 60  
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thanks for the replies, the local indy thinks its normal but i think i'll put a pressure gauge on it to check. Will i need to drain the oil before undoing the pressure switch?
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16th Jul 2025 9:26pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 385
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No need to drain the oil, the oil pressure switch is located on the oil cooler casting, you might find it easier to remove by removing the spin on oil filter. If you’re planning on using a pressure gauge this is probably the best location to fit it too as there will be a conveniently threaded orifice. It’s a tapered thread – 1/8″ x 27 NPTF apparently
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16th Jul 2025 11:09pm |
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| jim4244 Member Since: 13 Apr 2014 Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 965  
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I believe that there's a strainer on the oil pick up pipe that feeds from the sump with a strainer on it. There is a remote possibility that the strainer is becoming clogged from gunk and other contaminants.
There is also a bolt that can work itself loose that holds the oil pump in position. I'm not sure but someone else on here may know - If the bolt was working loose would this give the symptoms the OP is experiencing? Personally I don't think that the light is staying on that long. Jim |
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17th Jul 2025 4:36am |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 385
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While it's not impossible the loose oil pump bolt is unlikely - this is on a later Td5 where the issue of the early versions had been fixed. You could be on to something with oil starvation in the sump though, sludge and grime could cause a restriction there. Could be worse...could be a Ford engine with a wet belt!
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17th Jul 2025 9:11am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3584  
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I had this concern on a 2.2 though..
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83601.html 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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17th Jul 2025 12:32pm |
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| jonny Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: North Wilts Posts: 206 |
I wouldn't be overly concerned about that if it was my vehicle - oil pressure drops when the vehicle is sat as the oil drains down and takes a second or two to rebuild once the engine is started again as it needs to be pumped up from the sump build up to 6-8PSI to put the light out. The oil doesn't get a chance to drain down after an immediate restart so the light goes out much quicker.
As long as it goes out and doesn't come back on during normal usage I'd not be worried. I'll go check how long mine takes to go out in a bit, but pretty sure it's not instant. |
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17th Jul 2025 1:18pm |
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| miker916 Member Since: 25 Oct 2022 Location: Fife Posts: 60
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An interesting read Dinnu, your symptoms are really similar to mine, although different engine. Did you ever get a resolution?
After much research, causes for oil light on startup appear to be: Faulty pressure switch - ive ordered an oil pressure gauge Faulty oil filter - allowing oil to drain back into sump, could be as i dont remember it happening before oil change Faulty pressure relief valve in sump - dont think so as it would happen on every start. Partially blocked oil strainer - maybe Oil pump bolt coming undone - pretty sure i can rule that one out injector seals - diluting oil, i dont have a smell of diesel in oil and it passed the printer paper test. cracked head - hope not My car only has 97k miles and it had fully synthetic 5w30 and a mahle filter at last change. |
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17th Jul 2025 1:28pm |
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| miker916 Member Since: 25 Oct 2022 Location: Fife Posts: 60
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Thanks Jonny almost exactly word for word what the indy said, maybe i'm just worrying over nothing
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17th Jul 2025 1:29pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 385
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This is mine...not started for 15 hours, oil has done 2500 miles, last changed October 2024. The engine has 120,000 miles ish.
https://youtube.com/shorts/Kam41kz4Aqs?feature=share Don't be alarmed by the metallic rattle...I hadn't removed the X Eng gearstick lock thingy for this exercise. |
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17th Jul 2025 1:39pm |
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| jonny Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: North Wilts Posts: 206 |
Just started mine up after it not being used for a few days - I would say it's pretty much the same as the original video, maybe it goes out a smidge quicker but not by much. TD5 with less than 60K on it which had a total rebuild less than 10K ago...
Oil pressure switches are not 'accurate' - a quick search suggests that the workshop manual states that the pressure to turn the light off is between 6 and 10PSI which is a fairly wide variation - add in differences in oil thickness, ambient temps, engine mileage, oil filters etc and not every car is going to be exactly the same... Last edited by jonny on 17th Jul 2025 2:26pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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17th Jul 2025 2:16pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3584
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No, never got a resolution. In my case, being a 2.2 I was more concerned that the oil pump, being the variable type could be stuck in the wrong position, example stuck on high speed, where the flow rate is less per rotation. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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17th Jul 2025 2:25pm |
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