![]() | Home > Off Topic > Metal Prep before Painting. Cast Iron Victorian Bench Legs |
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Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5893 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hello all, or at least all of those interested in the subject.
We have four Victorian bench legs/arms made from cast iron, which we would like to paint. They have been stripped to bare metal. Obvious route is to slap some Hammerite on them and be done with it. But on the other hand is the option to get a pro finish. My question is over whether or not we need to pre-treat the metal (metallisation I think it's called), before we paint it? The local shop has recommended metallisation and then doing an epoxy undercoat and poly final coat. Total price is 400€. Just the painting (epoxy + Poly) is 160€. Buying the Hammerite is 100€. So the painting makes sense, when factoring in the arsing about, but the metal treatment first? The benches will be kept in the open air but under cover. One will be exposed to sun 365, one not at all - so we can swap them around. Any metal types (not Iron Maiden fans) out there who can advise? ![]() I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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fogbank Member Since: 30 May 2024 Location: Daylight Savings Posts: 21 ![]() ![]() |
Double
Last edited by fogbank on 11th Jun 2025 1:43pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5126 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Why not send them away to be galvanised, then etch prime and spray (with a rattle can) with Hammerite satin, in lots of colours. That way, they will last for years and years. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..
http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1 |
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Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5893 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That sort of thing is so hard to do/find/organise where I live in France. Easy peasy back in the UK, but not so much here. Locally, what I described in the post is all that's available. Hence seeing value in the painting, but wondering about the metallisation.
![]() I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5893 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That's why I'd pay for the paint, but wondering about the extra stuff. Normally i'd just do it, but each leg has already cost 50€ to strip, and that doesn't even factor in the treatment of the teak. What's more this is part of an extended garden project that cost us 10s of thousands over the first qtr of this year and I am quickly running out of beer money. 240€ is 30 beers. Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20879 ![]() ![]() |
You could use cold galvanizing spray, then etch primer then top coat.
But cold galv isn’t any near as good as hot dip. If you use a clear top coat that will add UV stabilisation, but equally you don’t want too many layers or it’ll chip. Personally I’d go acid etch, then a satin base, then a clear. You could just use satin asa top, but it’s life span will be reduced as there won’t be as much of a UV barrier, and likely grey after a while also. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___ ___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17816 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Cast iron has a surface finish which promotes good adhesion. I'd simply prime and paint.
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Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2403 ![]() ![]() |
Check out corroless as the primer and paint. Used on oil rigs so will last, I use on chassis.
I think Corroless S primer with Corroless RF16 topcoat would work, you just need to double check it’s ok for cast iron. Comes in tins or spray cans. https://www.thomas-graham.co.uk/paint/corr...s-topcoats |
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Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3572 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Most of the steel parts nowadays I like to electroplate with zinc diy. Costs almost nothing. Its very easy and gives exceptionally good corrosion resistance especially after painting. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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1NRO Member Since: 22 Feb 2015 Location: cumbria Posts: 77 ![]() ![]() |
My current method for such tasks goes something like the following. As much prep as you can muster to derust, wire wheels on grinder and drill with rough sand paper handy. Blasting is worthwhile though don’t let them prime the item, thats just a good excuse to do a substandard job of the blasting. Two coats of a proper rust converter such as Bilt Hamber hydrate-80. Then a good coat of Jotun conseal, ideally sprayed on. it’s very easy to work with, well within the scope of a DIYer. A 2k product would be superior, there’s a number of good ones in the Jotun range but a bit more tricky to work with and obviously more toxic. The Conseal finish is satin so may not suit your ambition. A cheap compressor and spray gun will have you up and running.
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julian Member Since: 17 Feb 2017 Location: Devon Posts: 174 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Epoxy (as we no longer live in the 1970s) and then a 2k single stage top coat.
Epoxy isn't generally an isocyanate, so you can spray without expensive air fed breathing kit. Or just brush on. I use lechler for work, but there are others. A modern epoxy is way better than hammerite or your 1970s etch primers. Don't let anyone talking you into powdercoat either. |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20879 ![]() ![]() |
Powder coat is a pain in the backside for sure, best avoided. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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