 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Ice Blasting and Lanoguard |
 
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| Will@LRW Member Since: 04 May 2019 Location: UK Posts: 225   
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Looking good. What's the ballpark cost? I've seen ice blasting on an engine bay starting from £600 LR Workshop
New parts illustrations https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...ed-corners Find a Defender's history and spec: https://defender.lrworkshop.com |
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23rd May 2025 10:53pm |
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| Bowbearer Member Since: 12 Aug 2022 Location: Norfolk Posts: 214  
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Will be good to know how the treatment lasts first hand rather than from a keyboard warrior.
The ice blasting is impressive. |
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24th May 2025 10:11am |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4285 
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I like the idea of ice blasting as it leaves so media behind and should be a clean surface ready to treat. Shame theres not DIY gear to do it.
Is dry-ice blasting a different thing with Nitrogen? Assume this is just water is it? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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24th May 2025 10:27am |
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| B1_D130 Member Since: 15 May 2022 Location: Scotland Posts: 24 
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I am quite impressed with the ice blasting.
This was the dry ice blasting, so no water involved at all, which was good. The lads made a decent effort, even removing the wheels and giving the springs etc a good clean up. Any deep rust however, was not really affected, so although the axles did come up nicer, you could still see the deep seated rust. I suppose this is where the more traditional sand blasting comes into it, as that would be far more abrasive. However, I am happy with the work done. Here is a link to some videos they made for me. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/56chkdtaw11...2&dl=0 The place did ask if I was sure about using Lanoguard. They usually apply stonechip or underseal after blasting. They were concerned that the Lanoguard was too thin to be effective. However, I am fed up constantly fighting with underseal and heavy duty protections every time I need to remove something off the landy. I will see how it holds up. This is a first for me using Lanoguard. The cost was around £1k. This was to get the full chassis and underside of the engine, wheels off and all suspension components etc dry ice blasted and everything given a coat of Lanoguard. (I supplied the Lanoguard) |
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24th May 2025 4:10pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6189 
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I see it often on the youtoob videos of folk who rebuild various smashed cars etc.
The iceblasting on engines and gerarboxes brings the steel, ali and rubber parts up like new |
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24th May 2025 4:18pm |
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| Will@LRW Member Since: 04 May 2019 Location: UK Posts: 225
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Super, thanks. I imagine it's a lot nicer for the guys doing it as well compared to steam cleaning! LR Workshop
New parts illustrations https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...ed-corners Find a Defender's history and spec: https://defender.lrworkshop.com |
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24th May 2025 9:31pm |
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| ginjez Member Since: 18 Sep 2011 Location: huddersfield Posts: 1771 
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Anything which offers protection to metal is a bonus so I am not against Lanoguard but having used both Lanoguard and Bilt Hamber Dynax UC I prefer the Dynax UC. I buy it in the aerosols which is quite expensive but goes a long way. Using the straw seems to put on a thicker coating. I've never had any issues with blocked nozils and it is so easy to apply. The cost of the aerosols is easily justifiable compared to the issues of rust.
I also use it on other cars I have and I like that the coating is clear. |
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1st Jun 2025 7:59am |
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| Bron1_09 Member Since: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 1 
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Hello
Would it please be possible to get the details of the guys who completed this work for you? Looks like they did a great job. Thanks. |
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3rd Jun 2025 9:40am |
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| s55shh Member Since: 30 Dec 2019 Location: staffs Posts: 201
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my lanoguard has got mud stuck to it which is a
 to get off. Maybe dry ice blasting will be required again to clean the lanoguard. |
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3rd Jun 2025 4:54pm |
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| fogbank Member Since: 30 May 2024 Location: Daylight Savings Posts: 26 
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I’m not a fan of Lanougaurd, I tried it on my defender and was not impressed with it. It turned claggy and trapped mud and I don’t believe it actually prevents much rusting. I was a lot more impressed with Dinatrols clear wax it was pretty resilient and it’s VHT friendly and doesn’t mud on it.
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3rd Jun 2025 8:07pm |
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| steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Malton Posts: 607 
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I used Dinitrol 4010 on my Defender. I liked it because it was translucent and did not hide anything. However, I found it did not last that long and soon wore off and the rust was back.
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4th Jun 2025 12:54pm |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 670  
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Why not just proper paint on freshly blasted parts? And than Lanoguard or any other protection on top of it? After blasting it was the best time to use somethink more stable a durable than just "a wax on bare metal". "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo
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4th Jun 2025 2:29pm |
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| B1_D130 Member Since: 15 May 2022 Location: Scotland Posts: 24
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The work was carried out by a local firm in Aberdeen. AMP-Ice Blasting
Painting the cleaned chassis was the original plan. However, time and life decided otherwise. This is the first time I have used Lanoguard, so it is a bit of an experiment for me. I will see how it holds up over the course of the year. If time permits next year, I hope to get the chassis cleaned again and get it painted next time before the lanoguard goes on. On the plus side, it will prove to be a good test to see how Lanoguard copes. |
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6th Jun 2025 5:43am |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 670
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Cleaning from somethink wax based from edges and tiny holes is very hard. It was just sucked in all small gaps, where is is hard or impossible to blast, or whipe with some cleaner/degreaser. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo
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6th Jun 2025 8:22am |
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