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TJ101



Member Since: 30 May 2007
Location: Taunton Somerset
Posts: 3747

Isle Of Man 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Well, i have, and always will do a oil/filter changes on a new engine at 1000-1200 miles, then every 10k or once a year

That inc the new D300 110 , which is due in a few hundred miles California F1, 75th 110 "Kermit", 50th Ann V8, 90 V8 Hybrid, 55 Series 1

Main Brian James Trailer Dealer for South West UK
Post #1011026 12th Oct 2023 8:08pm
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Clemmo



Member Since: 03 Aug 2012
Location: Mile Oak
Posts: 1191

England 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
So old school but each to their own.
I appreciate many of us lived in an era where engines had to be “ run in”
First oil change took out the metal particles from poorly mated surfaces.

Engines are just not like this anymore. They are high precision.
In a test environment I ran a modern engine under varying load conditions for 120000 miles.
No oil change. On disassembly the engine parts were still in manufacturing tolerance
Engineering has come a long way
Clemmo Make today a little better than yesterday but not so good as tomorrow....
Defender 90 HT............Pangea Green
BMW X3 Msport............Carbon Black
Mini Electric................Grey. (wow!)
MGB Roadster……..........Vermillion
Honda Benly CD200....Maroon ------------- Chausson 98.........7.5m of fun
Post #1011039 12th Oct 2023 9:05pm
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TJ101



Member Since: 30 May 2007
Location: Taunton Somerset
Posts: 3747

Isle Of Man 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
LOL,, and this week, replace a engine with only 37k on it, £14k bill

Engines are more in need of decent oils and regularly charges that the were , due to so called high precision.

See more dead engines that we did just 10 years ago , so old school even more so California F1, 75th 110 "Kermit", 50th Ann V8, 90 V8 Hybrid, 55 Series 1

Main Brian James Trailer Dealer for South West UK
Post #1011041 12th Oct 2023 9:20pm
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Nuclear Nick



Member Since: 21 Aug 2021
Location: Southwest
Posts: 249

United Kingdom 
This is rubbish Clemmo. Machining of metals hasn’t changed in many decades. Mating moving components still require to be lubricated and cooled and they still need to bed in during a running in process as they always have. This process, done properly, safely removes the peaks of metal remaining from the machining process and allows moving parts to develop their unique profile which will result in long term reliable operation. Lubricants have improved as has quality control and assurance but the laws of physics haven’t and so running in a new engine remains good practice. Manufacturers recommend their vehicles be run in and they haven’t changed this advice over many years either.

Those who say running in isn’t required are usually sales staff who tell customers what they want to hear.
Post #1011043 12th Oct 2023 9:30pm
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Clemmo



Member Since: 03 Aug 2012
Location: Mile Oak
Posts: 1191

England 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Not rubbish.. just experience.
You need to forget the past and move into current times.

It’s manufacturers who dictate that running in is not required..
No longer back to the dealer after 1000 miles to have the head tightened down and oil change. That was 20 years and more ago.
Leading manufacturers do not want you back in the workshop for 20k miles ( condition based servicing driven)

‘ Machining hasn’t changed in decades”???

Machining of metals has changed dramatically over the last 20 years. The metals have changed, the cutting tools have changed and the processes have changed. I have been designing and manufacturing engines for over 40 years. I’m an Automotive Engineer and the changes are phenomenal and continue.

There is no bedding in… parts are machined to extremely tight limits. Limits that are 10 times tighter than 20 years ago. Yes lubricants have improved. This contributes to extending.service interval.

https://www.whichcar.com.au/car-advice/bus...-a-new-car Make today a little better than yesterday but not so good as tomorrow....
Defender 90 HT............Pangea Green
BMW X3 Msport............Carbon Black
Mini Electric................Grey. (wow!)
MGB Roadster……..........Vermillion
Honda Benly CD200....Maroon ------------- Chausson 98.........7.5m of fun
Post #1011054 12th Oct 2023 10:30pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2548

Scotland 
More likely in my opinion that modern long service intervals are driven by the desire to keep ownership costs down in the first owner’s 2/3 year lease period, at the expense of longer term reliability after they’ve chopped it in for a new one and the factory warranty is out. All covered by the caveat in the manual that anything other than driving like miss daisy on normal roads may require more regular servicing.

2 years or 21,000 miles is madness - I do my engine oil/filter every 10k miles which is around every 4 months.
Post #1011155 13th Oct 2023 6:18pm
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Nuclear Nick



Member Since: 21 Aug 2021
Location: Southwest
Posts: 249

United Kingdom 
An interesting read. Think Porsche know what they’re talking about!

https://yel.pca.org/porsche-engine-break-in/
Post #1011157 13th Oct 2023 6:56pm
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WizzardPrang



Member Since: 05 Nov 2020
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 122

England 
The iGuide has a section on running in:

Quote:
The vehicle is built using high-precision manufacturing methods, but the moving parts of the engine must still settle in relative to each other. The running-in process occurs mainly in the first 3 000 km (2 000 mi) of operation.
During the running-in period of 3 000 km (2 000 mi), observe and follow the instructions below:
Do not fully press the accelerator pedal.
Avoid high engine speeds (rpm) until the engine has reached its full operating temperature.
Avoid operating the engine in too high a gear at low engine speeds (labouring).
Gradually increase engine and road speeds.
Avoid extended operation at high engine speeds with abrupt stops.
Avoid frequent cold starts followed by short-distance driving. Where possible, allow the engine to reach operating temperature.
Longer journeys are more helpful during the running-in period.
Do not participate in off-road driving, competition driving, track days, sports driving schools, or any similar events.


I wonder how many (or should that be few?) owners even read this, let alone bother with it. Nevertheless, 2 years/21K on the original oil? Current vehicle: 2020 Defender 110S
Gone: Defender 90 HT 200Tdi, Discovery Sport, Freelander 2

Insta: wizzardprang
Post #1011171 13th Oct 2023 9:56pm
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 2241

United Kingdom 
Changing the oil more regularly than recommended certainly won't do any harm, and whether it's better for the engine in the long term is open to endless debate.

Personally l had the oil and filter changed at 5,000 miles, it will get done again at 10,000 and then annually (around 10,000 mile intervals)

lf nothing else it makes me feel like l am looking after the vehicle, as have bought it through my business and l plan to keep it long term.

ln my last Land Rover l did 145,000 miles with no engine issues at all. The oil was changed annually. Let's see how this one gets on.

lf there's any chance it will make the engine last longer l will do it, as an engine failure five years down the line could write off one of these new Defenders.

Not like the old Defender where you could get a good used engine from a scrapped Discovery fitted for around £1,000
Post #1011190 14th Oct 2023 10:05am
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3616

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Changed mine yesterday. Will strain it before disposing to see if there is anything in it. I’m pretty sure that the oil filter housing is the same as was on my puma as well!
Post #1011212 14th Oct 2023 3:28pm
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martinf



Member Since: 30 Nov 2020
Location: Sussex
Posts: 95

United Kingdom 
Nuclear Nick wrote:
An interesting read. Think Porsche know what they’re talking about!

https://yel.pca.org/porsche-engine-break-in/


Checked my service book for my Porsche. Oil change every 2 years or 20,000 miles!

In practice I probably only do about 3000 miles a year so it is academic for me
Post #1011213 14th Oct 2023 4:48pm
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Nuclear Nick



Member Since: 21 Aug 2021
Location: Southwest
Posts: 249

United Kingdom 
Yes, mine too, but I still changed the oil at 5k miles then every year regardless of miles.
Post #1011230 14th Oct 2023 7:33pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5024

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
Its a balance i think.

Land rover do suggest bedding in as do many manufactures, but then all of them, for differing reasons suggest longer service intervals.

Personally it does no harm (in the main) doing more regular services, but isnt totally necessary. I was happy waiting 2 years on the defender, considering it had done less than 10k and i might do my own service before its due again.

I think some of these things can get over-egg'd when you see what many lease and fleet cars get and what many of the "companies" do to actually service them, plus what the manufacture suggests.

We could get into a whole debate about engine oil specs and genuine, premium and cheap service parts in a similar context.

I always remember a taxi driver friend saying he does frequent oil changes with correct spec cheap oil as it was better than doing longer oil changes with expensive oil and he did tens thousands of miles. Similar i was watching something about converting home shopping vans and the difference between same age/miles/service and some having been destroyed and others being as new. So i think its far more complicated than any one factor - but i would happily follow a 2yr service life.

What annoys me, is manufactures seem to keep service information and parts more secret now (wanting you to go to dealers) and certainly JLR with their "unique" oils (my 5.0SC oil of LR spec was a nightmare to source), im convinced you go to many garages and they will throw in any XWXX rather than the correct specification eg Ford or JLR spec and you never know. Mike
Post #1011393 16th Oct 2023 11:53am
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Badeagle



Member Since: 27 Aug 2022
Location: Beckenham
Posts: 50

England 
Just booked mine in for oil and filter change at my dealers
Quoted £299 but will give 15% discount so £254 ish
1 year old and 5200 miles MY23 XS 110 D250
2003 Jeep Cherokee Limited
Post #1011596 17th Oct 2023 7:41pm
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plumpmoose



Member Since: 14 Dec 2015
Location: North Devon & Oxon
Posts: 114

United Kingdom 
Just done (DIY) mine at 11.4k miles. 8.4 litres of expensive shell (JLR approved from opie) and a new oem filter.

Needed to remove alloy sump and engine guards under engine to access the sump plug. Car has the TR2 and configurable response so not all cars might have these guards. Preferred doing it the old fashioned way to get all old oil out.

Condition of old oil was fine - but the 20k service gap is rather long (UK based car). Car had only used 1.5 notches from the top level which I predict would be well within tolerences.

Unnecessary expense? Maybe - but I did get to have a good poke about while on ramp.
Post #1018249 13th Dec 2023 1:51pm
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