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PAT303



Member Since: 25 Feb 2013
Location: Australia
Posts: 123

Australia 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Alpine White
R380 cooler install
So I work in remote Australia were temps often get up to 50 degree's in summer so I want to fit a cooler to my R380, the thermostats are stupid expensive but I found this https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product/r380-oil-cooler-kit-2/ as a cheap substitute. So my question is then why can't I simply fit two 90 degree fittings to the case and run two hoses to a cooler?, unless I'm in cold temps I don't a thermostat or an expensive alloy block, just two 90 degree fittings?,
Post #986469 23rd Mar 2023 8:08am
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MercianRover



Member Since: 07 Apr 2022
Location: Culworth
Posts: 124

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Java Black
You could do this and fit a thermostatically controlled fan to blow air when the oil is up to temperature.
Post #986477 23rd Mar 2023 9:43am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4395

United Kingdom 
I completely understand your thoughts here. As far as I am concerned all R380s should have coolers fitted, especially if the vehicle has been modified with larger tyres, weight and more power.

There are four ways to do this.

1) LR original R380 thermostatically controlled adapter plus lines and cooler

FTC2687

I went this direction, finding a second hand adapter on eBay and then making up my own lines to an ally hot rod single pass through finned cooler. Fitted to the underneath of the passenger footwell. On long hauls or in summer this thing gets too hot to touch.

2) Ashcroft adapter

https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/r380-oil-cooler-kit/

This one is a complete kit but not thermostatically controlled. This may not be a problem in Oz.

3) Synchro gearboxes adapter

https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product/r380-oil-cooler-kit-2/

No thermostat... Although I recall theirs used to have one...


4) DIY via threaded unions directly in to the ports of the R380. Ballsy but doable I would think.

Have you had a look around any vehicle scrap dealers? Has to be a Discovery or ten in there with one of these adapters on...
Post #987259 29th Mar 2023 6:10pm
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jimbo55



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Midlands
Posts: 385

United Kingdom 
Like goebloke I have a cooler installed under the passenger footwell and use the thermostat keep temperatures at a sensible level. I used a PWR cooler on brackets from IRB.

Works really well and makes a noticeable difference to the heat coming through the gearbox tunnel

Thermostats May not be as much of a requirement in Australia but are definitely a good thing for us in the UK, no point having coolers that effectively keep the oil at below it’s optimum working temperature
Post #987262 29th Mar 2023 6:32pm
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murph81



Member Since: 11 Sep 2022
Location: Ireland
Posts: 63

Ireland 2007 Defender 110 Td5 PU Belize Green
Why fit the cooler under the footwell instead of behind the grill?
Post #987327 30th Mar 2023 10:31am
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jimbo55



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Midlands
Posts: 385

United Kingdom 
A mix of reasons really, I have a winch and large intercooler so no space behind the grill (and I want to somehow squeeze AC on there too)

Under the floor actually gets a good amount of air flow and is protected well, I do have mudflaps to stop it getting sprayed continuously and hasn’t been blocked with mud even though my defender does get used off road regularly

Images stolen from IRB’s Facebook


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
Post #987333 30th Mar 2023 11:23am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4395

United Kingdom 
murph81 wrote:
Why fit the cooler under the footwell instead of behind the grill?


As with Jimbo.

Plus, much much shorter oil lines, less than half the distance in fact = less oil required per service.

The position under the seat is a good safe place and it suited my needs. You can see the install here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic53859...;start=195 - About halfway down the page.
Post #987441 31st Mar 2023 11:22am
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ibexman



Member Since: 13 Dec 2008
Location: kent
Posts: 2872

United Kingdom 
I have mine in the same place works for me👍
Post #987451 31st Mar 2023 1:22pm
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PAT303



Member Since: 25 Feb 2013
Location: Australia
Posts: 123

Australia 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Alpine White
I'm with everyone else's opinion regarding the R380 needing both cooling and an increase in oil capacity. I might go the Ashcroft kit and fit it under the passenger floor, again that was were I was going to fit it plus get the bigger LT230 sump with cooling fins. I have been changing the oil every 20,000kms and it's usually discoloured so I really think a cooler is needed, plus the floor gets hot enough to cook an egg on.
Post #987509 1st Apr 2023 2:17am
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Steve_overland



Member Since: 14 Oct 2018
Location: Gaydon
Posts: 282

United Kingdom 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Chawton White
Very interesting need to do some more reading on this … @steve_overland on Insta.
110 expedition vehicle with pop roof
Post #987575 1st Apr 2023 6:14pm
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PAT303



Member Since: 25 Feb 2013
Location: Australia
Posts: 123

Australia 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Alpine White
My R380 had it's front layshaft bearing fail at 575,000km's running redline MTL oil, the oil was dark when I drained it, I'm convinced it was the heat breaking the oil down that caused the problem over time.
Post #987597 2nd Apr 2023 2:10am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4395

United Kingdom 
Quote:
My R380 had it's front layshaft bearing fail at 575,000km's running redline MTL oil, the oil was dark when I drained it, I'm convinced it was the heat breaking the oil down that caused the problem over time.


That was my exact feeling when my Ashcroft HD bearings collapsed at 70mph destroying many of the internals of the R380... As far as I am concerned fitting the gearbox cooler is at worst an "over the top" modification, it cannot have a detrimental effect to the gearbox but it could prolong its life.
Post #987717 3rd Apr 2023 9:47am
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

Well, I’m convinced. Something else to fit in (and fit on!) before the Pyrenees trip this August/Sept. I guess that’s precisely the sort of occasion when I’d get most benefit - long motorway miles and then some off-road/ascents etc in the heat.

I’ve also been considering a very similar thing for my Roamerdrive, but that’s for another day and thread.

Some quick questions - what volume of oil cooler did you use (and why?) and how does the oil flow around that loop? Is there a pump or the like? When you mention servicing, do you disconnect the cooler at the time of an oil change?

Please remember, I specialise in ‘daft questions’!

I did look at your thread posts Geobloke, and you mentioned that a double pass cooler would have been preferred. Seems to be a few of these available now via eBay etc. for quite reasonable prices. Probably Chinese, but isn’t everything….? Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #987806 3rd Apr 2023 6:33pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4395

United Kingdom 
Quote:
Well, I’m convinced. Something else to fit in (and fit on!) before the Pyrenees trip this August/Sept. I guess that’s precisely the sort of occasion when I’d get most benefit - long motorway miles and then some off-road/ascents etc in the heat.

I’ve also been considering a very similar thing for my Roamerdrive, but that’s for another day and thread.

Some quick questions - what volume of oil cooler did you use (and why?) and how does the oil flow around that loop? Is there a pump or the like? When you mention servicing, do you disconnect the cooler at the time of an oil change?

Please remember, I specialise in ‘daft questions’!

I did look at your thread posts Geobloke, and you mentioned that a double pass cooler would have been preferred. Seems to be a few of these available now via eBay etc. for quite reasonable prices. Probably Chinese, but isn’t everything….?


Morning Don.

Yes the cooler would be an excellent modification before long hot drives down through France and the Pyrenees, especially if loaded up with cheese and wine... Rolling Eyes

I decided on the finned style aluminium oil cooler because in my mind it would take an impact better than the radiator style coolers. Back in lockdown the only version I could get my hands on was a single pass 33cm item and resolved to route the pipework. Yes I would have liked a double pass cooler as it would double the time available for the oil to be cooled and having both ports at one end would have been easier, cheaper and neater to install. The other reason for choosing the finned style of cooler was that they have been used for decades in the US hotrod and 4x4 scene and if they were useless then they wouldn't have lasted that long as a cooler option.

I saw this by the way https://www.speedingparts.co.uk/p/fuelsyst...PWEALw_wcB

I used the LR thermostatically controlled adapter because I live in North Wales and it just makes sense since last year the temperature range where I live went from 40 degC to -12 degC. Before I fitted the adapter I did test the thermostat and it is not an on-off switch but a gradually opening and closing mechanism, so cooling occurs gradually with temperature (Another thread worth reading https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic68231-15.html). The fittings are AN-style with abrasion resistant flexible pipe and held in place by P-clips. The cooler is mounted under the passenger floor panel using rivnuts in the cooler and bold down through the floor. There is a sandwiched piece of thick rubber between the cooler and the floor to prevent vibration and fatigue.

When it comes to servicing the procedure is to drain both the R380 and the cooler, then refill. Fitting the cooler under the floor panel means that the cooler is almost on a horizontal plane with the R380 adapter so I have found that draining the gearbox also drains most of the coolers oil as well. I crack a union by the cooler to allow air in and the oil to drain fully. I have heard that the LR style cooler fitted to the front of the vehicle can prove to be a pain to refill, although I confess that is what I have read on other threads and have no experience of it.

The system was installed in 2020 when I rebuilt the R380 in Miffy and I have absolutely no complaints at all.

The R380 has a dedicated oil pump that circulates the oil through the oil galleries to the gear bearings. The LT230 does not have an internal oil pump so if you are thinking of fitting a cooler to that you will have to fit an external electric pump to circulate the oil. Electric transmission oil cooler pumps are readily available in motor sports shops. The Roamerdrive LT230 extension sump is a good upgrade, but I am uncertain how much it actually helps. The oil temp in the LT230 does get very hot when the Roamerdrive has been working for a while on a long haul trip.

Hope that helps, it ended up a bit longer than intended... Rolling Eyes
Post #987869 4th Apr 2023 10:17am
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

Excellent Geobloke, thanks very much for such a strong reply. I’d read lots of other stuff, but hadn’t come across that other thread so that was handy too.

I have picked up a recon LR oil cooler adapter on eBay - “last one available” allegedly. I’m normally pretty wary of anything that says it’s been reconditioned on that platform, but this guy wrote up what he did and it seemed good enough. I absolutely agree on the point about UK temperatures and the benefits of a thermostat. I had also picked up that the R380 has a pump. In fact I remember looking at the big round fitting on the back of the gearbox when I had the transfer box out, and wondering what it was. Now I know.

Similarly having looked at your installation vs more “traditional” oil coolers I think the robust nature of the finned tube is appealing - less to worry about.

I can find double pass ones on eBay - from China, Poland, or the US - I just wonder if it’s worth the wait vs the one you’ve linked to? As I still have the passenger floor and transmission tunnel out after the ‘winter’ jobs this is an ideal time to do a thing like this, but I don’t want to add another month’s delay to getting the car back on the road.

Finally on the Roamerdrive - yep, I’m quite up to speed on the heat issues there. Because of a quick onset of bearing noise from the unit I have it off the car and in bits while I’m replacing all the bearings. While researching this, and with the thing apart I’ve decided just to get the extended sump and the rear half of the OD unit tapped for 3/8 NPT fittings. As you say, the next thing is to find a suitable, low-flow pump just to lift and trickle oil from the sump up to the back of the Roamerdrive, where the most vulnerable bearing is. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #987878 4th Apr 2023 11:32am
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