↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Puma (Tdci) > Coolant fill : Vacuum filling only or any alternative?
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 1
Print this entire topic · 
MatLandy



Member Since: 11 Sep 2020
Location: Paris
Posts: 174

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Coolant fill : Vacuum filling only or any alternative?
Puma 2.4
Did a search on here but did not found the answer - maybe because it is so obvious for all. Well not for me apparently Embarassed

I understand how to drain the coolant, easy on a 2.4 with the pipes going to the fuel cooler.
But how do you refill? The WSM says to vacuum fill, using a vacuum fill adaptor and a venturi tube assemby. Is this really necessay, or should I just fill by pouring coolant slowly in the expansion tank, relying on gravity? I just want to avoid an air lock etc.

So what's the best step by step to refill the coolant?

/Mat
Post #985886 17th Mar 2023 8:10am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3993

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
If you fill it conventionally, you'll probably need to do a bit of work to get all the air locks out, but it certainly can be done. You need to fill it as best you can,but then get the engine properly up to running temp to burp out the bubbles. That'll involve driving it and stopping to check the level as it's very hard to get it hot otherwise.

Incidentally, my WSM does give a filling procedure that's not vacuum, but it doesn't work as the engine doesn't get hot enough. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #985891 17th Mar 2023 8:19am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
MatLandy



Member Since: 11 Sep 2020
Location: Paris
Posts: 174

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
indeed there are 2 options in the WSM.
"Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding" or "Cooling System Draining and Vacuum Filling"
Just wondering how wise people do it in real life Question

/Mat
Post #985895 17th Mar 2023 9:03am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2663

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Just done mine as it happens!

Drained from the fuel cooler - was a piece of cake, having taken out the bleed screw at the rear nearside of the engine bay. Heater control in the dashboard on "hot".

Just filled it through the expansion bottle. Then re-installed the bleed screw.

I measured the coolant that came out against the coolant I put back in and I was a cupful short. So I carried a bottle of diluted coolant in the car and topped it up twice after short journeys. I've now put as much in as I took out, and the level is staying static.

I had bought 5 litres of Castrol Radicool SF Antifreeze (from Opie site sponsor), and I still have an unopened bottle. I diluted 50/50.

No problems. Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #985944 17th Mar 2023 2:52pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
MatLandy



Member Since: 11 Sep 2020
Location: Paris
Posts: 174

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Right thanks, that's encouraging, will proceed and to the same then Bow down

/Mat
Post #985950 17th Mar 2023 4:15pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3602

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
ditto

did my coolant change and had no issues bleeding, make sure the heater is on hot, fill from the header tank with the bleed screw out, refit the bleed screw when coolant comes out of it and continue to the full level on the header tank, after filling, again make sure the heater is on hot when you run it up and just top up the header as the coolant level drops when the thermostat opens, top up the header for the first couple of runs until it all settles to the correct level. DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #985961 17th Mar 2023 7:23pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19452

United Kingdom 
As above, gravity will do it just always keep an eye on the level in the header tank.
Carry some coolant around with you (only add when cold of course) and you’ll be fine.
Ideally don’t go too far at first other than running it up to temp and keeping an eye on the level. Other than that not a problem you’ll soon know when it settles where it should permanently.

Follow the manual procedure with the bleed screw and everything else though as others mentioned. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #986046 18th Mar 2023 8:56pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
MatLandy



Member Since: 11 Sep 2020
Location: Paris
Posts: 174

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Ah OK. Will do as suggested. Not sure why this coolant thing had me worried so much, just an area I’m not familiar with I suppose 😎

/Mat
Post #986052 18th Mar 2023 9:15pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
HardCharger



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam
Posts: 669

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Once you've opened the bleed screw and uncoupled the fuel cooler lines, is it OK to first flush the system with distilled water to flush out any corrosion or crud? My system seems to have some corrosion in it and planning to do a coolant change but not before flushing with a few liters of distilled water.

If it is OK, once the water comes out clean, I can now slowly add coolant and close the drain points once the "pure" coolant comes out consistently, right?

By the way, which hose do I disconnect from the fuel cooler again? I don't have the WSM handy right now.

My truck is a 2.4 Puma
Post #986140 20th Mar 2023 1:26am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
MatLandy



Member Since: 11 Sep 2020
Location: Paris
Posts: 174

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
You need to disconnect the 2 lowest pipes. The upper ones are fuel pipes, so you will quickly know if you got it wrong 😑

Also, you need to disconnect a third pipe, the one going to the oil cooler as there is coolant fluid trapped here that cannot get out through the pipes on the fuel cooler.


Click image to enlarge



/Mat
Post #986142 20th Mar 2023 6:48am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
HardCharger



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam
Posts: 669

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Thanks, Mat!

This really helps! Thumbs Up
Post #986275 21st Mar 2023 2:41am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
HardCharger



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam
Posts: 669

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
One question, won't there still be dirty coolant trapped in the fuel and oil cooler? Or do I re-connect everything, run on distilled water then drain until all clear then put in new coolant?
Post #986379 22nd Mar 2023 3:48am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Post Reply
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 1
All times are GMT

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums